Yeah, definitely run it straight to the battery terminal. Look at darvex.com if you need new wiring supplies. They have battery terminals that are just what you need.

Extra batteries don't help with light dimming on a running car. They simply can't by the laws of physics. Dimming is the visual effect of lights being powered at ~14 V by the alternator, and then dropping to the 12.6 volts of the battery when the alternator is overdrawn (lights are obviously dimmer at 12.6 V as opposed to ~14). No matter the amount of batteries you have, they are all only capable of producing 12.6 V and therefore cannot cure dimming. Extra batteries are for reserve power while playing the system when the car isn't running. Jump on a car audio forum or two to verify this if you please.

In this case, upgrading the wiring is unneccesary. I run 1/0 gauge wire too, but my system requires more than 4 gauge whereas a single z8000 amp doesn't. The difference in resistance between 1/0 and 4 guage at this power level is negligible.

 

never mind my previous thread, with only 500 watts running i think you should just check your grounds, and maybe add a quality cap. if you go to your local audio shop they will help you out, most of the time if you by from there they will install for free. and if you spend enough they will throw in some freebies.

 

Thank you mak for agreeing with me on the battery thing lol. That was one of the best things I did when upgrading my stereo to what it is now.... now im getting closer to 150 DB's!!!

 

Ok, the way I look at it is Yes I agree with you DBL on extra batteries DO NOT give you extra power but they DO give you more reserve so when the bass really hits hard..... it is taking it from the extra batteries reserve and not strictly off the main battery which runs the lights and what not. So when it does hit hard it wont effect the lights as much, due to being taken off the "reserve" battery.

 

OK i am running 3 12' alpines with a 1800 watt amp ...have a frag but they really dont help with dimming at all more help with high not hits, but you should deff run your amp from the batt and not the fuse box and i would also say the big three is a great help..i used tsunami battery terminals because they have holes for different gauge wire and work very nice. If you do the big three nothing under 4gauge wire or else the upgrade is pointless. Also make sure all your grounds are really good cuz a bad ground could also help in some bad dimming. If you are running the cap try to ground the cap and the amp separate...i have heard that also helps. And the last thing would be to make sure you are using the biggest wire your amp can handle that way it it is getting a good flow and not pulling extra hard to get the flow to the amp......if none of these help then its a high output alt and battery upgrade that would help. I would say use a power cell batt like a kinetic batt. They can be expensive but are very good and worth the money.....hope this all helps

 

Get 1 or 0 gauge wiring, get a farad bank if you can find one they usually come in 5 farad to 15 farad, and as well get a gel cell battery. You will not have a problem as long as all of your grounds are good and sound. As well dont run your RCA cables on the same side of the car as the power and other wire. This can cause feedback in your speakers.

 

i need to start upgrading mine when i change out my system lol goin from 1200w to whatever i can aford lol