Looking to buy new head unit, back speakers and amp.
#31
No offense either man...im just saying from my experiences, what ive seen, what ive read!
its just that its been proven that just cause the price is cheaper does it mean your gettin a deal...lots of wires that are cheaper than JL or rockford or high end Stinger are proven to have more resistance or noise!
its just that its been proven that just cause the price is cheaper does it mean your gettin a deal...lots of wires that are cheaper than JL or rockford or high end Stinger are proven to have more resistance or noise!
#32
No offense taken at all.
For the car audio world, it really is true though, especially for power wires. As long is it's built to AWG specs, it's all the same. It doesn't matter if the strands are twisted in a certain pattern or whatever. Even the wiring that uses aluminum is fine because it's manufactured to larger diameters so that it's performance is equal to that of a pure copper wire. Yeah there are bound to be some shady companies, but there's no need to stick with only Rockford or JL or whoever.
With RCAs, as long as they're twisted or shielded, there's really not much difference. This is extra true for car audio, because with wind and road noise combined with a horrible acoustic environment, you wouldn't be able to hear a difference anyway. Some of the super cheap brands may have less-than-sturdy terminals, but a $15 RCA cable is fine. No sense in paying $60+ for a pair of RCAs that some people do.
For the car audio world, it really is true though, especially for power wires. As long is it's built to AWG specs, it's all the same. It doesn't matter if the strands are twisted in a certain pattern or whatever. Even the wiring that uses aluminum is fine because it's manufactured to larger diameters so that it's performance is equal to that of a pure copper wire. Yeah there are bound to be some shady companies, but there's no need to stick with only Rockford or JL or whoever.
With RCAs, as long as they're twisted or shielded, there's really not much difference. This is extra true for car audio, because with wind and road noise combined with a horrible acoustic environment, you wouldn't be able to hear a difference anyway. Some of the super cheap brands may have less-than-sturdy terminals, but a $15 RCA cable is fine. No sense in paying $60+ for a pair of RCAs that some people do.
#34
What do you mean not as good? If you mean they're not as loud, it's because chances are they are less efficient, meaning they need more power to reach the same volume. The only thing to do in that situation is to get an aftermarket amp.
#36
Do you have OnStar and want to keep it? Get used to the idea of spending at least $70-100+ to getting the right wiring. You'll need a special interface to swap out the factory headunit, and they aren't cheap. And that doesn't include keeping your factory steering wheel controls. I used these interfaces to install my headunit and keep the steering wheel controls functional, and I don't have OnStar. You're looking at $132 from this site. If you have OnStar, you'll need a different and more expensive interface. Then you'll need the dash kit to mount the new headunit.
http://www.hawkexpress.com/index.cfm...roduct_ID=7209
http://www.hawkexpress.com/index.cfm...roduct_ID=7259
http://www.hawkexpress.com/index.cfm...roduct_ID=7209
http://www.hawkexpress.com/index.cfm...roduct_ID=7259
#38
If you want to buy new from a retailer, not really. About two years ago when I bought mine, I shopped around and the site I linked to was the cheapest I could find, so it may not be the absolute cheapest anymore. It's not just a wire harness like you can get for $15 for lots of other cars. These interfaces keep your door chimes, retained accessory power, and a few other things. Aside from buying used like in the for-sale section here or on eBay, you don't really have a choice.
#39