If for some reason I didn't want to run the wire inside the passenger compartment this is how I would do it - except I would use insulated cable clamps rather than wire ties. I would not be comfortable running it like they did in the video. There's a good possibility that wire will end up pinched or the insulation worn off from vibration.

 

not a problem . . . glad to help when i can

Glad to hear that it worked out

 

I see lots of issues with this installation here. I'm pointing these things out to help you, not patronize you, so please don't take offense.

Running large power wire off the fuse box
This is not a good practice at all. Why? Because the fuse box is connected to the battery by a small gauge wire, so that large wire you just bought to power your amp is now reduced to carrying only the amount of current that small wire can carry. Not only that but with the close proximity of the battery it really makes no sense to go to the fuse box, even if the wire that connects it to the battery was larger. I understand the stock battery has that boot on the power terminal, just cut a little notch in it and you can connect the ring terminal from your power wire to it easily.

Location of the power wire/fuse block under the hood
That is a horrible location! The wire itself doesn't seem to be in danger of getting pinched or anything but water does get into that channel there and with the fuse holder being located there as well you run the chance of getting water inside the fuse block, causing damage to the wire ends that are connected to it and possibly causing a short and/or blowing the fuse.

Point of exit from under the hood
Running wire through metal panels without protecting said wire from potential short circuits due to rubbing on the metal is asking for it. At the very least you should have used some wire loom and electrical tape to provide at least a little bit of protection aside from the wire jacket itself.

Point of entry into the cabin
This is only the second time I've ever seen anyone run their amp power wire though the door jamb, there's a reason for that....it's not a good idea. Having the wire in there subjects it to more wear and tear than it should ever have to be subjected to, which significantly increases the chance of it getting shorted out. Not to mention putting a hole in that boot just gives water another opening to exploit and wreak havoc. Again, not a good idea.

Route of wire in cabin
Looks good from the door jamb to the back seat, but there is a decent section of wire that is still visible even after you tucked it all in (at 4:19 of the video).

Lack of power distribution block
There's nothing wrong with running multiple amps off a single power wire so long as the current draw of the amps does not exceed that of the wire. But the fact that you don't have the second amp on it's own direct connection to the main power wire, instead, piggybacking a connection off the first amp, is troubling and unsafe.

 

With running a power wire to the positive side post of the battery. What would be the best terminal adaptors to use on the battery terminals for the power wire?

And with those side terminal adapters, is there enough room to have a power wire and a wire from the alternator? I was looking at 4 AWG.

I'm still looking for a good place to mount the fuse holder. Any recommendations on brand/type fuse holder?

 

Not sure about the terminal adaptor thing, never had to use one. But if I had to I think this would be a pretty good option

TSUNAMI BT706S SHORT SIDE POST BATTERY TERMINAL FOR GM | eBay

Yep, plenty of room

There are plenty of spots inside the engine bay where you can safely mount your fuse holder. I'd figure out where you want your wire to be run first and then decide where to put the holder that way you can mount it along said route.

 

It sure would be nice if the battery also had a top mount posts. But if I install the amp, and later have to change the battery. Then I'd probably get one that has both side and tops posts. So, it will be real easy to mount you extra stuff on top of the battery.

I'd probably have the power wire run up from the firewall grommet to the top of the fender, and around to the backside of the positive terminal. That should keep the power wires out of the way. I say there should be a place around the back side of the battery area to mount the fuse holder.

Any particular brand/type of fuse holder and type of fuse?

 

I actually found a nifty little place that's easy to get to and is pretty concealed at the same time. I'll try and find a picture of it, but it's tucked under where the STB bar attaches to the frame. There's a little ledge above the battery, and i just tucked it right under there. I'll look for a decent pic...




FOUND IT!!!! Please excuse the dirty engine bay

 

Agreed, a friend of mine has a dual post battery in his Monte, its the perfect setup.

I prefer ANL fuses for most car audio applications, but its really dependent on the amount of current your power wire can carry. For anything 100a and up, ANL all the way. Anything under 100a and you'll be fine with the standard barrel style AGC fuse. As for brand, its hard to beat the offerings from KnuKonceptz. Xscorpion also makes some nice, low cost products too. Just avoid the big names cause you're limely to get taken for a ride as their fuse holders arent any more special than either of the ones I listed.

 

water will follow that straight into the car. If your going to do it like this, at least run it into the bottom of the grommet, not the top! or, better yet, run it the right way!

 

man Im having fun lighting this guy up in comments, its been that kind of day!