you could drive to oregon or florida choose now! lol

 

Lol i can drive but id need a place to stay

 

I was one of the lucky ones to get it on the first shipment out of these things and let me tell you it was the best thing I did for my system. My sub was so much louder and it works on bass boost distortion as well. My mids and highs are louder and crisper as well.

Get one if you dont have one already..

 

i saw the thread title and i figured it was either you or jaws haha, i like the stuff he's doing now, he has an amp dyno now too

 

Lol thanks for reading !!! Guys

 

thought id add to this thread. i got mine on thrusday and tuned my system up. lets just say wow! my mids and highs are alot louder. i was looking at getting some alpine type X components or RE audios XXX but im gonna wait now. and my bass is louder as well and i dont have to worry about blowing my speakers. so if your looking at buying one. DO IT!

 

Nice man !! I love mine 2 it is a great little tool for sure !!

 

Man I don't even know what clipping means. I'm such an idiot when it comes to electronics. I bet my setup could sound tons better but I just don't know what I'm doing. Thanks for the review though.

 

for under 200$ and a laptop of your own, you can run an RTA on your system, it's what I run.

True Audio: Audio Spectrum Analyzer and Loudspeaker Design Software



and i run the software on a tablet I happen to have but you can run it on anything with windows far as i know. if theirs anybody seriously considering this, let me know I can "help" with the software.




clipping is the very top of the specturum of the production of an amp, or output device where the currents are unstable and can easily spike (in cheaper amps, what we call dirty wattage) well that's a bit of a misnomer but we'll let it go for now. the more "headroom" one has the less likley they are to see any clipping, so you want 20% head room genraly, which is why our gains are said to always be just over half way giving you 30-40% head room in general, you should pick your devices based on the assumtion of headroom and not the RMS value, so you need 100 watts rms, you want 150 watts rms. which is what I currently do with my mid bass, they want 80-100 watts, i use a 150 watt channel amp that does as much as 170 watts rms, but like i said, at the top of that is where i'm gonna clip. sounds like a complicated concept, but you don't have to understand the finer details, just that you want head room, their are other forms of clipping but this is the most important concept to understand in car audio.

here's what an RTA is doing, it's listening to the DB levels of all of your frequencys, and displays them in order for you on a visual EQ looking format. it's very easy to read. what your trying to achieve is the flattest pattern, the more granuler your EQ, the more you can do this, but with the veritible in drivers, phasing differences in the multible drivers you run since you're not running a single full range driver for your lows, highs, mids, mid highs and all of that, you'll have phasing differencs, and ive yet to see an EQ over 1\3 ovtave my self, which ive seen up to 32 bands, which is about as granular as we get right now, this software comes up as much as 1\24th octave, which means it breaks down a bar graph even more so for more frequency ranges, you might go 20 to 30 hz in a 1\3 ovtave in 1\24th you'll go 20, 25,30 or even 20, 23, 25, 30, idk the number break down off the top of my head but you get the idea.

 

Yeah thanks for the explanation and pictures and what not but I'm still not getting it. lol I'm just electronically retarded.