Amp keeps cutting off.help please!!
#11
I work on slot of system and in my opinion it's the sub I've always had problem with those same alpine type r's, and it sound like the amp is working to hard for correct wiring diagram go to the 12volt.com and enter your speakers specifications and it will tell you exactly how to wire it. Hope it helps
#16
I just fixed an amp from 2001 monte carlo, it was cutting in and out with temperature, and occasionally when hitting a bump or if the sub was cranked. The trunk mounted amp gets audio from the head unit, then sends it to the speakers. The amp chips have a mute and standby line - I didn't follow the traces to see which one was the culprit, but I did measure a couple dead resistors in the area. They are near a blue capacitor next to the incoming choke filter circuit, and covered with soft glue. Thankfully the glue comes off easily, but it's a commonly known issue that too hard of a glue on components can crack them - which I assume is what happened.
My fix was R706 and R707, both measured well beyond their rated values when in circuit (and the amp was off). These are both 0805 package, 5%, 1/10W resistors, and should measure as follows:
R706, labeled as 104 = ~100K in circuit (bad one was way higher)
R707, labeled as 103 = ~10K in circuit (bad one was way higher)
After replacing those two resistors, the amp worked just fine, no cutouts - and it had been completely dead for months, and cutting out for a couple years prior.
Good luck fixing, e-mail me and i'll try to fix yours for a fee
Dave - easily found as djs2571 in many places if IM / PM doesn't work here.
My fix was R706 and R707, both measured well beyond their rated values when in circuit (and the amp was off). These are both 0805 package, 5%, 1/10W resistors, and should measure as follows:
R706, labeled as 104 = ~100K in circuit (bad one was way higher)
R707, labeled as 103 = ~10K in circuit (bad one was way higher)
After replacing those two resistors, the amp worked just fine, no cutouts - and it had been completely dead for months, and cutting out for a couple years prior.
Good luck fixing, e-mail me and i'll try to fix yours for a fee
Dave - easily found as djs2571 in many places if IM / PM doesn't work here.
#18
I work on slot of system and in my opinion it's the sub I've always had problem with those same alpine type r's, and it sound like the amp is working to hard for correct wiring diagram go to the 12volt.com and enter your speakers specifications and it will tell you exactly how to wire it. Hope it helps
It's probably the gain being set too high which often results in clipping.
#19
edit - re read that XD
the reason you feel that drop in power is your clipping. turn down your gains, also what kind of unit are you using to convert your speaker wires to RCA , are you tapping off wires that are still playing to speakers? if the signal is split up even with an external booster like the RCA converter, you'll still loose signal as the systems "bumps" and that as well can cause clipping on the amp as in a result it'll try and draw the extra energy from the power lines and if your alt is weak this conjuction can cause clipping of the amp. also an older battery or certain types of batterys don't fair well with weak alts and high draw amps, or even mild draw if your alt is really bad. to me this is likley a conjunction of all these issues if you indeed wired it the way i think you did. but I suggest an after market deck to resolve issues with speakers, you can directly wire to the speaker wires through the harness behind the dash, this will not bypass your stock amp as your amp is wired into those stock wires, you're just simply bypassing the old harness to recieve the signals from the after market deck thats all. than run an RCA cable for the sub off of the outputs of the after market deck. have you tested your alt as well? and finily, check those gaints, a 60% crank on the gains is a healthy zone to be in, especily on a stock system even if you replaced the speakers with out them being amp'd beyond the stock amp you'll still have to much low end. hope some of this helped
idk if it'll help but i sitll have my stock alt laying around been trying to sell for years. it only has like 30k miles on it of use. they genraly last a lifetime of the vehicle or at least 100-150k miles depending on envirments :P
a bad or good alt generaly wont be able to support a system that hits that hard you'll def hear the loss in energy of the sub's because of the high burst draw. alts don't really fair well with burts of draw like that, its really bad for them if your battery is drained out allot while your driving. its puts 3x the strain normal use should, it'll also put strain on the engine as it trys to turn the alt to push that much more power out of it. its a domino effect. granted the engine can keep up, but its just extra wear and tear on the car, you're belt will of course get more wear if you do this on the regular.
the reason you feel that drop in power is your clipping. turn down your gains, also what kind of unit are you using to convert your speaker wires to RCA , are you tapping off wires that are still playing to speakers? if the signal is split up even with an external booster like the RCA converter, you'll still loose signal as the systems "bumps" and that as well can cause clipping on the amp as in a result it'll try and draw the extra energy from the power lines and if your alt is weak this conjuction can cause clipping of the amp. also an older battery or certain types of batterys don't fair well with weak alts and high draw amps, or even mild draw if your alt is really bad. to me this is likley a conjunction of all these issues if you indeed wired it the way i think you did. but I suggest an after market deck to resolve issues with speakers, you can directly wire to the speaker wires through the harness behind the dash, this will not bypass your stock amp as your amp is wired into those stock wires, you're just simply bypassing the old harness to recieve the signals from the after market deck thats all. than run an RCA cable for the sub off of the outputs of the after market deck. have you tested your alt as well? and finily, check those gaints, a 60% crank on the gains is a healthy zone to be in, especily on a stock system even if you replaced the speakers with out them being amp'd beyond the stock amp you'll still have to much low end. hope some of this helped
idk if it'll help but i sitll have my stock alt laying around been trying to sell for years. it only has like 30k miles on it of use. they genraly last a lifetime of the vehicle or at least 100-150k miles depending on envirments :P
I've never had an issue with Type-R's if they're setup correctly
You'd have to have a pretty bad alternator really, even with a bad battery the alternator should support the system for a while through the battery.
It's probably the gain being set too high which often results in clipping.
You'd have to have a pretty bad alternator really, even with a bad battery the alternator should support the system for a while through the battery.
It's probably the gain being set too high which often results in clipping.
Last edited by walkingonabullet; 03-22-2012 at 05:25 PM.
#20
edit - re read that XD
the reason you feel that drop in power is your clipping. turn down your gains, also what kind of unit are you using to convert your speaker wires to RCA , are you tapping off wires that are still playing to speakers? if the signal is split up even with an external booster like the RCA converter, you'll still loose signal as the systems "bumps" and that as well can cause clipping on the amp as in a result it'll try and draw the extra energy from the power lines and if your alt is weak this conjuction can cause clipping of the amp. also an older battery or certain types of batterys don't fair well with weak alts and high draw amps, or even mild draw if your alt is really bad. to me this is likley a conjunction of all these issues if you indeed wired it the way i think you did. but I suggest an after market deck to resolve issues with speakers, you can directly wire to the speaker wires through the harness behind the dash, this will not bypass your stock amp as your amp is wired into those stock wires, you're just simply bypassing the old harness to recieve the signals from the after market deck thats all. than run an RCA cable for the sub off of the outputs of the after market deck. have you tested your alt as well? and finily, check those gaints, a 60% crank on the gains is a healthy zone to be in, especily on a stock system even if you replaced the speakers with out them being amp'd beyond the stock amp you'll still have to much low end. hope some of this helped
idk if it'll help but i sitll have my stock alt laying around been trying to sell for years. it only has like 30k miles on it of use. they genraly last a lifetime of the vehicle or at least 100-150k miles depending on envirments :P
a bad or good alt generaly wont be able to support a system that hits that hard you'll def hear the loss in energy of the sub's because of the high burst draw. alts don't really fair well with burts of draw like that, its really bad for them if your battery is drained out allot while your driving. its puts 3x the strain normal use should, it'll also put strain on the engine as it trys to turn the alt to push that much more power out of it. its a domino effect. granted the engine can keep up, but its just extra wear and tear on the car, you're belt will of course get more wear if you do this on the regular.
the reason you feel that drop in power is your clipping. turn down your gains, also what kind of unit are you using to convert your speaker wires to RCA , are you tapping off wires that are still playing to speakers? if the signal is split up even with an external booster like the RCA converter, you'll still loose signal as the systems "bumps" and that as well can cause clipping on the amp as in a result it'll try and draw the extra energy from the power lines and if your alt is weak this conjuction can cause clipping of the amp. also an older battery or certain types of batterys don't fair well with weak alts and high draw amps, or even mild draw if your alt is really bad. to me this is likley a conjunction of all these issues if you indeed wired it the way i think you did. but I suggest an after market deck to resolve issues with speakers, you can directly wire to the speaker wires through the harness behind the dash, this will not bypass your stock amp as your amp is wired into those stock wires, you're just simply bypassing the old harness to recieve the signals from the after market deck thats all. than run an RCA cable for the sub off of the outputs of the after market deck. have you tested your alt as well? and finily, check those gaints, a 60% crank on the gains is a healthy zone to be in, especily on a stock system even if you replaced the speakers with out them being amp'd beyond the stock amp you'll still have to much low end. hope some of this helped
idk if it'll help but i sitll have my stock alt laying around been trying to sell for years. it only has like 30k miles on it of use. they genraly last a lifetime of the vehicle or at least 100-150k miles depending on envirments :P
a bad or good alt generaly wont be able to support a system that hits that hard you'll def hear the loss in energy of the sub's because of the high burst draw. alts don't really fair well with burts of draw like that, its really bad for them if your battery is drained out allot while your driving. its puts 3x the strain normal use should, it'll also put strain on the engine as it trys to turn the alt to push that much more power out of it. its a domino effect. granted the engine can keep up, but its just extra wear and tear on the car, you're belt will of course get more wear if you do this on the regular.