Amp blowing fuses
#1
Amp blowing fuses
Well i was on a long trip and noticed that halfway through I lost all bass. Went to have a look and noticed that both 30 amp fuses were shot. I replaced them today and the same thing happened after about 1 min. of use. Nothing has changed in my setup and no shorts. Proper guage wire is used and the sub can handle the amp. i am running a kenwood excelon and the light indicator flashes yellow right before the fuses blow. Yellow means low voltage. Cant figure it out.
#2
Have you traced the power wire to the front o f the car? Its possible that it might have gotten loose and touched a side manifold.
What you can also try is if you still have a section of wire long enough, run it on the ouside fo the car from the amp the the battery ( fused of course ) and see if it still blow fuses. If no, then you have a pinched or compromised mire. If it still does it, then it could be that you have a short inside the amp itself.
Thats where i would start.
One more thing. Check your grounds also.
What you can also try is if you still have a section of wire long enough, run it on the ouside fo the car from the amp the the battery ( fused of course ) and see if it still blow fuses. If no, then you have a pinched or compromised mire. If it still does it, then it could be that you have a short inside the amp itself.
Thats where i would start.
One more thing. Check your grounds also.
#4
Have you used a DMM to measure the voltage on the pos and neg terminals on your amp? That would be the first thing I'd do. So replace the fuses on the amp and power it up but make sure the volume is all the way down, you just want the amp to turn on. With your DMM, measure the power on the battery then on the pos and neg terminals and also on the remote and neg terminals. Your voltage should be within a half volt of the reading you got on your battery.
I had a similar problem once, turned out to be a bad main power wire fuse....the filament was warped but still intact upon visual inspection. But when I did a continuity test with my DMM it didn't pass that test.
I had a similar problem once, turned out to be a bad main power wire fuse....the filament was warped but still intact upon visual inspection. But when I did a continuity test with my DMM it didn't pass that test.
#6
Yep, that too
#7
Ok new info. I noticed that the amp is dimming the interior light like crazy. More so than before. If I bridge the amp it wont last long cause the low voltage warning light will flash and then blow the fuses. Its acting like it has a bad ground but the ground wire hasent changed and is wired to the strut tower bolt. It is even sanded to metal. There is a short somewhere because when i put the key in the ignition that activates the amp and the climate control lights flash (the AC and rear defogger button lights) This is a very strange problem.
#8
On a hunch i decided to pull the woofer out of the box and check the connections there. I noticed that the sub smelled burnt and then pushed on the cone to hear the dreadful rubbing sound. i think the whole time my woofer was causing the problem. This would explain the sudden symptoms. I then turned the car on and the sub ran for about 30 seconds and finally bit the dust.
#10
Tell me about it. I did some further research on my amp and found out that the amp runs 500 watt RMS and my sub is only rated for 350. Funny cause the peak of the amp is 1,000 and peak on the sub is 1,200. I learned a lot from this. Bought a new sub thats rated for 650 RMS.