So I had an aftermarket Kenwood deck and Kenwood amplifier and Kicker subs put in about 5 years ago at Best Buy. Flash forward and I had trouble with the car starting after it got locked in passlock with the system hooked up, so the repair garage unhooked the system so the car would start?

I took it to a professional stereo shop and had the dude rehook the system and he cut the factory amplifier that was in the mix out? He said I didn't need it and he would bypass the "can bus system" that Best Buy had hooked up and make the stereo like its "own little island"? So here is my question it sounds like sh*t? LOL So I've taken it back a couple of times and even bought a set of Kicker 6X9's to put in the rear as the stereo dude said my Kenwood amp was 4 ohms and the stock 6X9's were 2 ohms so they were taxing the hell out of my Kenwood and it couldn't hang with them at that low of an ohm rating?

One major thing I have noticed is that at what USED to be a normal listening level (24 volume out of 35 on the head unit) the speakers start to "crackle" after a certain amount of time? Anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes depending on what I'm listening to? So I tried to isolate it and if I move the music to the front by using the fader it clears up, if I move the sound entirely to the rear with the fader it clears up-----if I move it back to 0 equal volume to front and back it starts to crackle? What the hell is going on with this system? If anyone can answer this I can get the exact model numbers of what I have if that will help? I'm at a loss here when it crackles its definitely coming out of the front speakers AND the new 6X9's I just had put in?-----if the fader is set to 0?----if I move the fader to the front it's good and if I move it entirely to the rear its good?

Help? LOL

 

I have read a lot of stories about aftermarket stereo systems in these cars this forum is full of folks with issues and I would never cut any wires to the existing stuff. Chevrolet runs all the stuff into the Radio and continues to do that today I just bought a 2020 Blazer and also have an Equinox and I just wouldn't mess with it.
That being said if I wanted to get a better sound system in the Car I would isolate it from all the factory stuff so you are using only the power cable to it from the Car. That way your whole system is new. New wiring etc. I think these cars might have some sensors in them that are wired into the harness and if one of them reacts then you could get the crackle you are experiencing.
Maybe there is a youtube vid on something about that. might be worth a hunt there too.
Some of the Stereo techs believe that they know all the ins and outs of the systems and a different brand will not be the same.
I wish I could tell you exactly what you need to do to fix it. But there might be someone that sees this and will have a solution too.
Back in the day when I used to do this kinda stuff it was more user friendly.
Update: here is a link that you might want to check out. https://www.google.com/search?client...o+do+and+donts


But I wasn't able to get something that would shake the car next to me a light either. Lol

 

Thanks dude yeah I really wish he hadn't cut that factory amp out LOL. Its like "why not just unplug it"? LOL instead he cut it

I'm wondering if my door speakers are 2 ohm which I know they are and the rears now and subs are 4 ohm would cause that? He says yes since its drawing the amp down to an ohm load that it just can't handle. It now only shows up after a few minutes like 20 to 30 and he says its because its taxing the hell out of that amp that it can hang for a few minutes at that lower ohm load, but then its literally crapping itself LOL. So I'm going to swap out the door speakers with some 4 ohm speakers and see what happens with that?