it depends on the bracket of the 6.5 if they fit!

 

alright ima just tackle some of this tonight. i like you, and I'd like to help you seem like you really wanna get into it. let me first cover some brands, give my opinion on some things

I never liked alpine my self, idk why :\ their quality always seems "just enough" but they do make some nice stuff. i love their amps though, their PDX line is my faverate. i ran first gen PDX amps for the past 2 years. their type R 8" subs in your rear deck would be great. a few things you should know about IB though, with out sealing the front waves from the rear ones, you're gonna have MASSIVE cancelation. in the rear deck, some 8's should fit nice, I would recommend those Alpine type R's. theyve really been tested and proven, this past year has really been a big year for that sub some reason it just got allota credibility, i have never heard it, but ive been told by people with far more experience than I that they are nice and ive heard other Type R subs, they can sound very nice, but since their on the cheaper end you get people just using em to pound. but don't give up on sealed all together either, i mean **** i run SQ and ive ran a 12" ported in a 2.21 CF box in my monte carlo for 2 years and i compete.

by the by, that was a JBL W12GTI MKII. INCREDIBLE sub, does well in every are, its great sub for IB because it has built in saftey features that make it very good for this application.

moving on. speaker brands..first...it's not the brand or speaker that makes the system, its the tuning. BUT of course its very hard to see this and people hear differnetly, some are more sensative some are duler and need harsher highs, more impact. so on and so forth, but here are some brands I recommend.

for an all around neautral great sounding speaker system, focal in almost eveyr one of their lines is pretty well balanced. nice impact, nice highs, some find them harsh, ive never heard a set of focals at a SHOW i didnt like, ive heard em on the st sounding like **** of course. anyways, their very nice, pricey but nice. i enjoy them and i hate harsh highs, so their are ways to tune it out, tweak it, tricks of the trade per say. persoanly..a great brand to get into can't go wrong.

DLS is another, i LOVE the scandanavian line, ive heard them in a couple confirguiations. that is the only line by them they don't sell in a package, you have to buy pieces, they make variant pieces, different mid basses and such. theirs also a passive cross over they make for the set you have to buy as well sepratley, not an ideal intro set to DLS< the Gothica series is a great set to get into, think the 400-700$ range depending on if you pick them up in a shop or in a deal or used. i'd recommend online, check out sonicelectronix.com friend, you'll thank me later (i havnt read this thread only your first post, i find it best to just answer the inital question)

Hybrid audio, they are the speakers i run. world class brand, world class speakers, their are MANY lines, the imagine line is the entry line if im not mistaken, GREAT entry gear, anything hybrid is world class, scott the guy who runs that ship GREAT GUY he'll help you with anything short of putting them in for you. he will go out of your way for you. theirs also the Clarus is i believe the next line up. sorry had this wrong, their is a line below imagine, this is the order.


theirs -

Mirus stage I
Imagine Stage II
Unity Stage III (ive never heard this line, not sure how much he has in it)
Clarus Stage IV
Legatia Stage V (these and above are what i run)
Legatia SE (special Edition) Stage VI (these are THE best speakers you'll ever heard. period.) its whats going into my next project, my last one was just legatia. but it didnt take and i ended up runing a Frankenstein of sort with some SB tweeters and scanspeak mids.

you can find them here, but i'd personnely just buy them directly from scott my self. ive gotten all my gear that ive bought new from him. you can find his email on the hybrid audio site at hybrid-audio.com'
Hybrid Audio Technologies - 12v Electronics

also you should check out the hybrid sub's i'm not sure how they do IB, but I know they do great sealed. you could build a box under the rear deck, and mount 2 6" subs, their great. but you could run them IB too i'm pretty sure let me get back to you on that. but ive never had a chance to get ahold of any of them to play with, but they look fun and if their anything like his other gear, their great. let me tell you a little something about hybrids speakers, they are one of maybe a dozen companys they make ONLY high end gear, even their entry level stuff is just...spectacular. at least above the imagines, but like i said i never heard stage I's of any kind. but every single one of hyrbid speakers are wide band speakers, their L6SE stage 6 drivers have such an amazing range 50hz-10khz, you can play them all day full range and you'll be happy, run a tweeter L1v2's or something of the sort and you'll cream your panties son. ive yet to find a driver with this kind of response. you can runt he L6SE or even just the L6 in the right hands as a dedicate mid bass with some L8V2's or even L8se's if you wanna waste your money on dead space because you wont play them high enough to be worth the upgrade.

this is a graph to show you how the L6SE's play at different frequencys on different axis. i know its a bit confusing at first, but what you need to know is, you want a flat response, you want 60hz to be as loud as 5k hrz, the same as 2k hrz and 200 hrz.






JBL, the harmin groupd, infiniti you may also be familuar, they tend to be very alike. personly i ran head to head the perfect 6 and JBL's flagship mid level speaker set for the past couple years the C608 GTI MKII's (now discontinued :'( ) and they are built very similarly. but i found the infinitis to be much harsher, to the point that i just tore them out. perfect 6 mid bass is much better and smoother than the 608's mid bass, but the tweeters in the 608's are great. the 660 GTI (their flag ship top line car speakers) are just ...well friend, if you've had sex...than you may start to understand the greatness you'll hear out of these. and yes...you must use the wave guide for the tweeters, its night and day, not ideal for your build. but good to know none the less. the whole GTI line is great.

Image Dynamics. now they just switched hands in ownership, but their still great. their IDMAX subs are great, they only make them up to 12" their beautiful subs, play just as well as JBL's GTI subs, or even better depending on how you play them and how you install them, its all about the install and the tune. you can buy 10k in speakers but with out a great tune, your nothing. they don't have many lines. their just pure win, all around. anything you get from them is winning.

massive audio, the RK6's are comparable to JBL 608's IMO, in power handling, output, SQ and all of that. they have GREAT micro class D amps. their TINY, powerful, clean power, and run VERY COOL. their class D amps, so you loose a little SQ but really...with massive you don't their very nice. especially if you run an MS-8 (read later about that) it'll factor out your gear a little more. moving on, the amps are great, i had a set of their NX2's for awhile never used them, and ended up just trading em out in the end.



i highly suggest an external processor if you really wanna get into the SQ end of things. JBL MS-8, Alpine H800, Helix p-DPS, helix C-DP, zapco 6, masconi 6x8, their are allot out now. the h800 aint out yet, but they are all gonna be hitting the market this spring, aside from a couple, the ms-8 has been out for years, amazing piece. if you dont wanna tune...and deal with Time alignment on your own..best rout, the auto tune will probably tune it better than you could with 10 years experience and 2 months of solid tuning. its an incredible unit. i ran one for awhile. im gonna be running a carputer with a custom sound processor my self but that's just me, you have much to learn before you can tackle a carputer


I HIGHLY suggest the ms-8, in fact if you dropped it into your stock system right now you'd **** a brick, its really that good of a system. it tunes reactivly via the tuning processing with some mic headset you wear, runs you through a procedure and you are done, honestly don't even need to tweak it other than maybe playing with some cross over points (if your running active) if you dont know what active is, in a word, its basicly controlling where your speakers cross over. of course, each speaker needs a channel, it illiminates the issues with coax's with the amps channel pushing 5k hrz out of the same channel as 70hrz, it obviously ccan cause distortion. this is why Bi-amping is used on some passive cross overs, it imitates that, but personaly active is the way to, you control how the speakers cross, how steep the slope is that they cross out, you have a slope basicly on a graph it'll like like 2 half hills cross each other, the steeper the better, because if your slope is to shallow, you have to pull those frequencys up in the tunning, and any time you alter a signal, theirs distortion no matter the quality the equipment your doing it with.

well im getting tired now, if i get around i'll post some mroe info perhaps. but i'll be more than happy to help you with any questions, hell I'd gladley help ya if you'd make the treck ive taken my monte apart 50 times, so i know it pretty well you might say.

 

@Boxman420: The factory shoves 6.5" components in the doors to begin with, I have been to the scrap yard & picked me up a few extra speaker "pods" with which to tinker with until I make the driver fit the way I want, & either the tweeter in the same area - on the pod - or possibly flush on the panel at an optimal listening level ...

@walkingonabullet: I cannot thank you enough for the info you have offered so far, & I pray you [will] want to offer more on the components, etc., especially after I include some more information on the other parts I am using, & why ... :p

Not that the source unit really matters, but I will be using a Pioneer FH-P8000BT.

The subwoofers for the IB configuration are two 12" Kicker Comp (4 ohm).

NO mods [cutting] will be made to the steel, rear deck plate whatsoever. I am constructing what I call the "mounting platform" out of two pieces of 3/4" birch plywood, with one piece of 3/4" MDF "sandwiched" in-between. Then a 3/4" ring underneath out of either birch or MDF in which to secure/hang the sub from.

I am paying particularly close attention to wood thickness, & mixture of types & sandwiching the MDF to give the bass a "warmer" sound by eliminating any high-pitched echo effects from the denser MDF, etc. Will radius the openings slightly as the platform makes its last transition "up" from MDF to birch to help kill any air noise that may have wanted to creep its head up, & out ... I will break out the bondo for that task ... Smoooooothness ...

I do not expect too much vibration, but I will still use Liquid Nails to seal the "planks" together, & some coarse deck screws to further secure the structure.

I have large pieces of 1-1/2" - 2" of a very dense foam in which to place between the top of the mounting platform, & the bottom of the rear deck ... looking in from the trunk ... where the factory amp/booster used to be ... I may have to use two pieces of foam, each one the FULL size of the rear deck, to get the desired leveled mounting - Besides the nearly 2" pieces, I do have big pieces that are as thin as 1/4" ... Therefore I do have options, & am not left to shove this in there with 2" or 4" of foam, & being left to deal with it ... I will be putting sound deaden-er on the deck, but will also lay a piece of this 1/4" rubber foam stuff on top the the deck ... from inside the car ...

The situation that I am NOT fully sure about is how I am going to mount the structure to the rear deck. I have thought about some very large, well-placed carriage bolts that bore right up through & come out the top of the planks some 4", maybe 5"+ inside the car ... & use decent, appropriate sized washers & lock-nuts, ... also, I would gently countersink the heads of the bolts into the bottom - maybe the kind with the "square" locks underneath them - of the wood, & bondo them over, ... as I would like to paint the structure the same color as the car.

Amplifier is a Kicker ZX550.3 - 3 channel ... 2 channel stereo & a mono block side for the subs to run in 2 ohm mode ... Everything is new, including the amp ... even though its model year is 2005, & it is well-rated over its stated power, etc.

I will also be tuning everything with a SMD-DD1 Distortion Detector. I intend on taking ZERO short cuts on this system ...

Now, on to the doors ... my budget is $300-350, no more ... & I really prefer a passive system, not active off the deck &/or amp.

ANYONE that has any ideas, thoughts, hates, etc., jump in here! I want to hear it ALL! /

I dare ya! :p

 

first off...1 sentence? come on i wrote you a ****ing book. haha no it's cool bro. i'm sure you read it.

kicker's not a bad brand for an amp, their nice. i forget to mention kicker speakers, they do make some nice system, but ive not heard many, but their isn't to much special about them to make them stand out against any other speakers.

if your budget is that low, i might suggest massive audio for your speakers but i just found this new model from image dynamic.

Image Dynamics CXS64 (CXS 64) 6.5" 4 ohm Chameleon Component System

they are very nice, would fit very well and very nice.

and for an amp for that...i think if you went with this you'll be set for life. check it out. gonna run ya a few bucks, but trust me, its worth the wait to pick the right gear for your audio system..**** ive been sitting on my system for 4 months, haven't even had one in my car in 2 months. sucks but what ya gonna do?

Massive Audio NX5 Nano Block Series 5-Channel Car Amplifier

RMS Power Rating (14.4V):
4 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 240 watts x 4 chan. + 400 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 800 watts x 1 chan. (Subwoofer channel only)
Bridged, 4 ohms: 480 watts x 2 chan. + 200 watts x 1 chan.



I have heard that amp, it's a spectacular amp. and yes friend.. the amp does make a difference, not all amps are created equal.


amp selection 101 - when you are selecting an amp, you want to first decide on your placment because depending on that, you will be restricted in your choices. a class D can fit in any application assuming you check demensions. a class A\B is gonna be much larger, have much more heat, and is gonna need heat disapation considered if you build it into something like a box, a small fan blowing over it like 120 mm fan or two, and you're fine. if it's on your rear seat, it'll be fine. a class A amp..is world class, you don't even want me to show you how much an amp in that class cost. the differences are the tonalitys, an A\B amp is gonna be warm, it's gonna have highs that roll off with nice more gentle responses. a class D is gonna be a little different, but again with the tuning and placment you can compansate for everything, its all a matter of give and take. now, the differences are disputed but you can read all about it over at -

here are some references i did for ya real quick, i know it can be hard to find stuff when you don't know what to look for, I don't know your base knowledge but these threads should be very helpful -

Precision time alignment using only noise tracks and your ears - CarAudioForum.com

Pre-Out Voltages - More preout voltage makes my amp work less and get louder! - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

just some thoughts, give em a read, check out both of those forums. thank me later, diyma is the place ot be. great community. ive met well over 30 people from the site my self just in my area and going to shows and comps.


do NOT run that deck, it's dated tech...what in the world would make you pick such a deck?

listen, check out this deck...you won't be disappointed. and it's a great fit, and if you go single dinn, you can purchase this very nice single dinn custom mounting kit i have that i do not use and it lights up
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C-BT948HD.html





it's sold with these customizations for 110$ + shipping from Humount. let me know if you're interested in it.

 

Dont get sony I have a full sony system in my 94 Lumina and it only sounded good for 2 years then they went bad. My friends Saturn had a Bose system that sounded like you were at a concert. For a clear sweet sounding system I would go with Bose.

 

bose is what premium monte carlos come with stock and friend if your impressed by a stock bose system you havnt heard a real system i'm sorry to say, no offense. i dont think bose sells after market parts though, that cheap mock off boss does though but they lie about specs and are very unreliable speakers.


alright im a little more awake now, i'll cover some more brands for ya.


boston accoustic, their a legend in the field. their quality is down, theyve switched hands since they were at world class ratings and are now B class gear at the best. their onyx amps are very nice though, not the best, still grade B stuff, but for bang for buck, some of the best deals around. their speakers are very nice. ive a friend who is a big harmin fan, he loves boston's SPZ60 braxial set. and if you don't know, braxial is much like coax except its usialy has a 2nd order cross over, a first order cross over by the way is a capaicter, a second order cross over has resisters and all kinds of stuff..been awhile since i tinkered with electronics in that way so idk the machanics of them. anyways, braxials are mounted off the rim, their is no cone penatration like a coax. its a very nice design, gives you great point of oragin control, but with time alignment and EQ and processing you can illiminate the issues with 2 way kits. but braxials were developed out of the KISS (keep it simple stupid) method of thinking.

PPI, now heres another legend amoung the greats. the greatest in somes opinion at one point in time, they have come back now and have switched hands. they were only making entry level stuff for a couple years but now have started releasing some nice stuff, their PC3.65C 3 way kit has been in my eyes for awhile now. ive read a couple reveiews, they have mixed reveiew. but great speakers all around. and very small, making for an easy 3 way install for a up and starter. PPI is expected to release some great things. i think CES is out this week, should be an interesting show.

 

I love my Sony system in my Edge for stock its great its way better than the Bose system i had in my vette, that was pretty crappy to say the least

 

Hi Walking on a Bullet, happy to see someone else knows of Massive Audio gear. Unfortunately the shop I had install my MA speakers jacked up the install and blew out the tweeters and melted the crossovers. Dumb a**es. Your well versed on car audio for sure, read all your book. WOW, wish I knew what you knew, would have had a successful install.

Check out my audio install on my Garage or albums page, let me know what I could improve on... Thanks bro...

 

My monte didnt come with a bose stock and i have the 200 watt premium sound package with satalite radio and CD. His had spliters for high mid and low. Amps for each range, and a 12 speaker surround sound setup. He also had some subs in the trunk he would flip a switch and turn on for when the song needed more base, like on metalica guitar solos. It was a custom system not stock he might have cannibalized his old system for it.

Im not talking for big booming base because that sounds like **** and i hate the rattle. Plus Vibration is not good for your car. But clarity wise it was a sweet setup. And after two years the base didnt drop out like it did on the sony system i put in my lumina.

 

I just got bored. it takes a moment of thnking to pull all that info out not like i can stand in the middle of a conversation and pull that **** out of my *** thanks none the less. massive is great stuff, and they have a great R&D setup, they are very reactive compared to other brands. they even posted about requests for upgrades and gear on diyma.com, ive acualy never heard anything from them, i know them well though because ive spoken to many people.