Badlanz HPE. 5 year gear motor warranty. I am local to the owner of the company.

 

x2 I have one on my buick. It was a good kit at a good price.

 

Did u guys have any issues with the y pipe they send u in the kit. I am running flowmaster. Super 44 with 2.5 pipe to 3"inch tips.

 

Turbo monte

Did you buy the kit with the y pipe. Did they pipe fit on your exhaust line. I read the reveiws from a bunch of brands. I narrowed it down to 2. Doug's or qtp. Both have the same testimonials. My mechanic is trying to steer me away from them because they can leak. But like anything else. S..t can happen. And the warranty on both seem good. If it did leak it would hopefully leak from the valve and not the weld. Which seems like it can be changed out in your own driveway. My car is loud with a nice sound but these would make it sound even louder just to make heads turn lol

 

I have had no issues at all. Badlanz is no joke

 

I had no issues either, just make sure you buy the right size thats all.

 

Kool thsnks . I purchased the 2.5 dual kit from qtp. The one with the toggle switch. It will be here by tomorrow. What's a good place to put the toggle switch any ideas

 

And how far from or close to the mufflers should they be installed

 

Mine is right off the downpipe of my headers

 

I have had a DMH on my gp gxp for about 5 years now, works great. I've got a y welded in place of the resonator since I was doing a delete anyways. I have scraped it a few times over larger speed bumps as it hangs down a touch, but I've only just brushed it and the exhaust is able to flex a bit anyways (flex pipe up front, rubber bushings at all other mounts). If it scrapes or not is totally dependent on where you mount it. Keep it higher than the current lowest part of the car in the area you're working on if you're worried.

I have had it leak a bit around the blade. Over time it gets a little carbon buildup like any other exhaust component, and I've had it get to where it wouldn't completely close, but all I had to do was open it and clean the crap off with some carb cleaner and a rag. As long as you use decent gaskets, the seals won't leak, and the welds depends on the ability of your exhaust shop.

I did fairly recently install a cutout on my monte- I put a Jegs 3" right at the base of the firewall where the exhaust makes the turn to go down the tunnel. That allows me to dump the exhaust as close to the headers as safely possible, or close it and run it through the whole system.

There are a few things to keep in mind with cutouts:
-exhaust gas can get REALLY hot, it should always be aimed away from the body and any fuel tanks, lines, etc. The closer to the front of the car, the hotter the exhaust will be, but also the more flow that branch of the system will be able to achieve.
-on most cars (especially stockish cars), you're not going to gain much power. The cars that really benefit are turbo cars, or other cars that have been modded rather significantly and still have small/stock exhaust. For perspective purposes, I pick up right around 1 mph in the 1/4 with my gp when it's open (et is similar as it is traction limited). The car is nearly totally stock.
-if you already have loud exhaust, a cutout may not necessarily increase the volume much. It may sound louder in the car from the sound waves bouncing off the floor pan, but you get the most volume delta if you're bypassing a quieter muffler. I don't see much point in putting a cutout on a system that is already rather noisy.
-most exhaust shops won't mount the cutout in front of the cat. This would be considered bypassing an emissions device, and most shops don't want the liability.
-keep in mind that the cutout doesn't have to be the end of that branch of the exhaust stream. You can continue the exhaust on the cutout branch if you want to (ie if you need to route the outlet elsewhere for safety purposes).