Catalytic Converter?
I replaced all 4 02 sensors on my truck with AC Delco's and was still getting the P0420 code. One of the new sensors had shorted out. Replaced it and no more code. Could be something that simple, fingers crossed for you.
I've been running a Magnaflow for over 2 years now with no code(s). I was prepared to use the spark plug anti-fouler trick, but didn't need to. A lot of people seem to experience a P0420 after swapping cats (no matter the brand). That makes me suspect that they have a problem elsewhere (such as fuel delivery, leaky exhaust, etc. that is triggering the code. A rich running engine can destroy a brand new cat in a very short period of time. Personally, I'd rather have the CEL illuminate so I can investigate the problem. If the code is tuned out you may be driving around not knowing the engine is in need of attention. That unattended malfunction can lead to further problems (or possible damage) to the vehicle.
Did you do a cooling system pressure test or cylinder leak down test to insure coolant isn't getting into the exhaust stream? As I mentioned in another thread the coolant can coat the internals of the cat triggering a P0420 code. A rich running engine can do the same thing. If you do install a Magnaflow just run with it for a while. It may not throw a code. If it does then address the problem. Don't put the cart in front of the horse.
Did you do a cooling system pressure test or cylinder leak down test to insure coolant isn't getting into the exhaust stream? As I mentioned in another thread the coolant can coat the internals of the cat triggering a P0420 code. A rich running engine can do the same thing. If you do install a Magnaflow just run with it for a while. It may not throw a code. If it does then address the problem. Don't put the cart in front of the horse.

The front one was a little sketchy when I bought it. I got it off Amazon and the dude described it as "used like new" and I trusted that description but I'm not sure it was actually "new" when I got it OR that it didn't have a problem. I can get a brand new one for about $30+ on Amazon at the moment so I'll pick up another one if that front one is indeed bad.
That is exactly what my nephew was telling me. He said cars now a days are made with such "tight" emissions controls that on anything past about '98 a universal cat will make the car "whine" (as in cry like a baby LOL) that the specs aren't what they are supposed to be.
that is the email address I used when dealing with Will in October of last year. I just checked his site and it's down, so hopefully he is still doing this thing and it is just a server malfunction
He was posting on the forum a few weeks ago
With the p0420 code (cat below threshold temp) and the car running kinda fine... and there are no leaks at the cat. The problem actually is caused by your cold air intake giving you a lean condition. This is a problem when and changes are made to any computer controlled engine, their owners do not monitor and adjust the fueling as required by the changes. A simple vacuum gauge can tell if a cat is bad, watch it at idle 16-18" or better and note the vac then bring it to 2500 rpm (steady) and watch it if the vacuum starts to drop over 3-5 min then the cat is useless if it remains sort of in the same range it is good. If the vacuum is low at idle and remains low or gets lower at the steady 2500 rpm the exhaust has a blockage of some sort.
Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; Feb 17, 2014 at 08:49 AM.
^^^^^^
Good info, but a slight correction...
If the cat is clogged the needle on the vacuum gauge will rise and fall rapidly (fluctuate). This is caused by the pulses created in the (restricted) exhaust stream as each cylinder purges. This test is a good indicator of a clogged cat, but a pre and post cat pressure test should be done to verify.
Good info, but a slight correction...
If the cat is clogged the needle on the vacuum gauge will rise and fall rapidly (fluctuate). This is caused by the pulses created in the (restricted) exhaust stream as each cylinder purges. This test is a good indicator of a clogged cat, but a pre and post cat pressure test should be done to verify.
With the p0420 code (cat below threshold temp) and the car running kinda fine... and there are no leaks at the cat. The problem actually is caused by your cold air intake giving you a lean condition. This is a problem when and changes are made to any computer controlled engine, their owners do not monitor and adjust the fueling as required by the changes. A simple vacuum gauge can tell if a cat is bad, watch it at idle 16-18" or better and note the vac then bring it to 2500 rpm (steady) and watch it if the vacuum starts to drop over 3-5 min then the cat is useless if it remains sort of in the same range it is good. If the vacuum is low at idle and remains low or gets lower at the steady 2500 rpm the exhaust has a blockage of some sort.
One noticeable thing when I replaced the original cat was that I was getting a P1811 I think it was which was a tranny code and terrible acceleration with "bucking" and "jerking" off the line and very hard shifts. I also had very bad performance and could hardly make the tires squawk if I wanted to. Every one I took the car to told me the same thing "the tranny is toast and needs to be replaced". Needless to say I replaced the cat since it was plugged and the tranny has been shifting fine ever since. Pluse I have plenty of power now. I have not noticed that "hard shifting" since replacing the cat HOWEVER I did notice the other day a little "buck" off the line at a red light. So at this point I won't rule anything out until I get some conclusive tests done. I'm curious if its just the code being thrown or if I have something i.e. a bad cat or bad O2 sensor or like you said if its the CAI filter causing problems.
Good info. I have never ran a CAI filter on a car in the past. When I saw this one I was like the "what the hell is this"?
One noticeable thing when I replaced the original cat was that I was getting a P1811 I think it was which was a tranny code and terrible acceleration with "bucking" and "jerking" off the line and very hard shifts. I also had very bad performance and could hardly make the tires squawk if I wanted to. Every one I took the car to told me the same thing "the tranny is toast and needs to be replaced". Needless to say I replaced the cat since it was plugged and the tranny has been shifting fine ever since. Pluse I have plenty of power now. I have not noticed that "hard shifting" since replacing the cat HOWEVER I did notice the other day a little "buck" off the line at a red light. So at this point I won't rule anything out until I get some conclusive tests done. I'm curious if its just the code being thrown or if I have something i.e. a bad cat or bad O2 sensor or like you said if its the CAI filter causing problems.
One noticeable thing when I replaced the original cat was that I was getting a P1811 I think it was which was a tranny code and terrible acceleration with "bucking" and "jerking" off the line and very hard shifts. I also had very bad performance and could hardly make the tires squawk if I wanted to. Every one I took the car to told me the same thing "the tranny is toast and needs to be replaced". Needless to say I replaced the cat since it was plugged and the tranny has been shifting fine ever since. Pluse I have plenty of power now. I have not noticed that "hard shifting" since replacing the cat HOWEVER I did notice the other day a little "buck" off the line at a red light. So at this point I won't rule anything out until I get some conclusive tests done. I'm curious if its just the code being thrown or if I have something i.e. a bad cat or bad O2 sensor or like you said if its the CAI filter causing problems.
Your little buck off the line could be just a dirty induction system, partially from oil residue released by the CAI. Another thing to consider is oxygenated fuel or even ethanol in the fuel causing a leaner condition by itself. The computers are designed to compensate some. Now in the early 2000`s ethanol was a consumer option but today it has been mandated to go as high as 30% without your knowledge. This fuel changes the burn characteristics that older computers cannot adjust for. Same goes for the spark plugs the factory installed a plug that was meant for real fuel not this ethanol stuff... what to do here is install a iridium plug that is 1 step colder than stock this will bring the fuel burn back in the combustion chamber, help relieve knock and return the power and performance to where it should be.















