air intake?
#11
01-16-2014, 06:28 AM
mods this winter
Putting cold air intake on. I like the cai and the zzp can anybody give advice which one is better if you have one Im kind of 50-50 on this, Thanks on any help. Butch
#16
01-16-2014, 01:21 PM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,715
Good afternoon... I run the ZZP Wizaird CAI and am really pleased with it... It has been on the car for about 4 years now... Looks and works as good as new... 
#18
01-26-2014, 10:22 PM
There are so many different opinions and theories on intakes. To give example:
This is the exact opposite argument most boosted owners will give, that drawing in cold air is more important to them than it is to a non-boosted car.
And no one drives with their vehicle at a standstill on the dyno either.
My 2 cents from having driven many hundreds of different W-Body intake setups is that I've seen reduced performance more-so from restrictive intakes than I have from hot air intakes.
Confining air boxes can be one of them. I remember a Thrasher cold air intake on a 2002 GTP years ago, nice poly carbonate enclosure (better for reduced heat transfer than todays Wizair and CAI Inc aluminum offerings), and the owner had gone to great lengths to seal it from the engine bay with weather stripping on the edges. We picked up MAF frequency (flow) and reduced KR by removing the lid on the box.
I remember another 2000 GTX with an SLP cold air intake, which placed the box in a well sealed box with an inlet to the fenderwell and to the SLP ram air hood. The filter was so confined by the box, his car went from 5* KR to zero KR by switching intakes to a larger air filter on a simple fenderwell intake.
My recommendation is an open cone setup with a large diameter tube, smooth tube (no accordion ribs, meaning don't reuse your OE elbows), and a large air filter. In reality I believe there's is so much air movement in the engine bay, so much air interchange, once you're at a reasonable speed (30mph+ for example), the inlet temps drop close enough to ambient that it's not my primary concern whether the air is "cold" enough, just give the engine lots of it.
Remember that what you're aiming for with drawing cold air is oxygen content, more dense air. Restricting airflow to try and draw cold will restrict the oxygen intake just as much.
On a boosted engine a HAI isn't as negative, because the supercharger will heat
up the air anyway.
up the air anyway.
The only times the HAIs really show a rise in power, is when they pop the hood and put a fan in front on the dyno. That's artificial since no one drives with their hood open 
My 2 cents from having driven many hundreds of different W-Body intake setups is that I've seen reduced performance more-so from restrictive intakes than I have from hot air intakes.
Confining air boxes can be one of them. I remember a Thrasher cold air intake on a 2002 GTP years ago, nice poly carbonate enclosure (better for reduced heat transfer than todays Wizair and CAI Inc aluminum offerings), and the owner had gone to great lengths to seal it from the engine bay with weather stripping on the edges. We picked up MAF frequency (flow) and reduced KR by removing the lid on the box.
I remember another 2000 GTX with an SLP cold air intake, which placed the box in a well sealed box with an inlet to the fenderwell and to the SLP ram air hood. The filter was so confined by the box, his car went from 5* KR to zero KR by switching intakes to a larger air filter on a simple fenderwell intake.
My recommendation is an open cone setup with a large diameter tube, smooth tube (no accordion ribs, meaning don't reuse your OE elbows), and a large air filter. In reality I believe there's is so much air movement in the engine bay, so much air interchange, once you're at a reasonable speed (30mph+ for example), the inlet temps drop close enough to ambient that it's not my primary concern whether the air is "cold" enough, just give the engine lots of it.
Remember that what you're aiming for with drawing cold air is oxygen content, more dense air. Restricting airflow to try and draw cold will restrict the oxygen intake just as much.
#19
01-26-2014, 11:31 PM
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Posts: 4,779
My 2 cents from having driven many hundreds of different W-Body intake setups is that I've seen reduced performance more-so from restrictive intakes than I have from hot air intakes.
Confining air boxes can be one of them. I remember a Thrasher cold air intake on a 2002 GTP years ago, nice poly carbonate enclosure (better for reduced heat transfer than todays Wizair and CAI Inc aluminum offerings), and the owner had gone to great lengths to seal it from the engine bay with weather stripping on the edges. We picked up MAF frequency (flow) and reduced KR by removing the lid on the box.
I remember another 2000 GTX with an SLP cold air intake, which placed the box in a well sealed box with an inlet to the fenderwell and to the SLP ram air hood. The filter was so confined by the box, his car went from 5* KR to zero KR by switching intakes to a larger air filter on a simple fenderwell intake.
My recommendation is an open cone setup with a large diameter tube, smooth tube (no accordion ribs, meaning don't reuse your OE elbows), and a large air filter. In reality I believe there's is so much air movement in the engine bay, so much air interchange, once you're at a reasonable speed (30mph+ for example), the inlet temps drop close enough to ambient that it's not my primary concern whether the air is "cold" enough, just give the engine lots of it.
Remember that what you're aiming for with drawing cold air is oxygen content, more dense air. Restricting airflow to try and draw cold will restrict the oxygen intake just as much.
Confining air boxes can be one of them. I remember a Thrasher cold air intake on a 2002 GTP years ago, nice poly carbonate enclosure (better for reduced heat transfer than todays Wizair and CAI Inc aluminum offerings), and the owner had gone to great lengths to seal it from the engine bay with weather stripping on the edges. We picked up MAF frequency (flow) and reduced KR by removing the lid on the box.
I remember another 2000 GTX with an SLP cold air intake, which placed the box in a well sealed box with an inlet to the fenderwell and to the SLP ram air hood. The filter was so confined by the box, his car went from 5* KR to zero KR by switching intakes to a larger air filter on a simple fenderwell intake.
My recommendation is an open cone setup with a large diameter tube, smooth tube (no accordion ribs, meaning don't reuse your OE elbows), and a large air filter. In reality I believe there's is so much air movement in the engine bay, so much air interchange, once you're at a reasonable speed (30mph+ for example), the inlet temps drop close enough to ambient that it's not my primary concern whether the air is "cold" enough, just give the engine lots of it.
Remember that what you're aiming for with drawing cold air is oxygen content, more dense air. Restricting airflow to try and draw cold will restrict the oxygen intake just as much.
I'm running K&N's 63 Series AirCharger air intake.
#20
01-27-2014, 07:33 AM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 25,136
My recommendation is an open cone setup with a large diameter tube, smooth tube (no accordion ribs, meaning don't reuse your OE elbows), and a large air filter. In reality I believe there's is so much air movement in the engine bay, so much air interchange, once you're at a reasonable speed (30mph+ for example), the inlet temps drop close enough to ambient that it's not my primary concern whether the air is "cold" enough, just give the engine lots of it.
Maybe some people live and do 100% or even 80% highway driving so that is fine for them, but it was awful for me in the suburbs.