This is for a 2005 3.8 SC Monte.

I am not sure how to take the sensor off the rail it sits on and also there is a large white line hook-up that I don't want to just yank off, as it will probably cause damage.

In the picture it is the top arrow aiming at that particular white chunk of plastic that is part of the vacuum hose line that locks onto the sensor that I cannot remove off of the sensor.
I tugged on it and it did not detach. I am not sure if it requires a tool to release it or if it is press fit on.

The bottom arrow pointing at the sensor and the shelf it sits on, I tugged on the sensor pulling up and downwards and it doesn't move.
I assume it is locked on there, but how do I remove it off it's metal shelf?

*****I did remove the red plastic straw. It was used to jury rig it to hold the hose onto the sensor tightly as it was too loose it seemed. I have the replacement hose too for the install.

Thank you guys for any input!

 

So the white connector just needs to be turned 180* (rotated around) and the opposite side you cannot see right now will be like a flat white rectangle. Push it gently inwards while supporting the other side with a finger. You may need to push with a small flat screw driver. That will release the lock on the quick connect.
Reinstalling is just pushing it over the fitting until it clicks.
To remove the solenoid there will be the plastic channel that it’s mounted by. Inside that you’ll see a 1/16” or so metal tab in the middle that will be bent likely towards the solenoid. Use the same small screw driver or a pick and push or bend it flat with the rest of the mount and then pull up on the noid and it’ll slide of. Mild persuasion might be necessary, they stick on occasionally.

My curiosity is why you’re removing it? I’ve seen maybe 2 of those fail in the 15 years of my professional tech career. And testing it without removal is pretty easy.
If it’s stuck open or leaking and you remove the non-engine side line it creates a vacuum leak while it’s running. If it’s stuck closed and you rig jumper wires to + and - to energize the solenoid and there’s no click or engine idle change it’s not opening. If there’s a click and no idle changes spray combustion chamber cleaner in the non-engine side while cycling either the - or + jumper wire. Creating an on/off situation.

As far as the loose like make sure the rubber O-ring/s are still inside and didn’t fall off at some point during previous removal. That hose connection has an oblong fitting and finger squeezing will release it. They generally do feel pretty loose but that’s normal.

Hope that helps you.

 

I appreciate your followup post.

There was a long silence on this post, so I went in and tried doing it myself.
I found the piece that locks and tried prying it... and the piece came off.
The sensor and line is now swapped.
I do appreciate the input, I just thought the post may not get a response.
I watched videos and it was unclear to me on that connector that is white on how the guy got it off.
One video I think the guy used a screwdriver. I couldn't tell if he rotated the connector. So I assumed there was a tab he popped off to unlock it.

That white plastic piece that came off that looks like a small plastic stick is no longer on that round white connector.
I looked at it, and I thought I broke it at first... but upon inspection there is no sheared off looking part of the plastic that I saw.
In other words the plastic piece doesn't look broken/ damaged. I can be wrong though.

If I remember correctly the bottom end of the retainer on the connector that came off has a semi circular joint that I think anchors onto that white connector.
Once anchored, I think I just push it inwards and it should click back into place. I can be wrong again.

I kept that piece of plastic that came off of course, and am probably going to have a mechanic pop it back on if I can't.

Where the white connector is on the sensor, it is kind of wedged into place by other lines in a way that I probably don't need it locked on.
But, I do want it locked on though anyways.

The reason I replaced the line was it had leaks from a crack in the line near the throttle body.
I think it had another crack in the line somewhere also.
The reason I replaced the sensor was it is probably the original 15 years old one it came with.
I had some bucking of the engine at low speed. It seemed like a fueling issue from what I read on the net.
When I inspected the line and saw damage to the line... I figured I mind as well replace the sensor too while doing that.

I have not driven it enough to see if the problem is gone as it only did it randomly, and not very often.

 

Doubled the post, sorry.
Erased it.