About 2 weeks about on my daily drive to work I was involved in a 5 car accident and my 2004 MC SS was totaled. It did it's job and not a scratch on me.

I'm looking to replace it and I found another 2004. This one is the Supercharged Dale Enhart JR endition. It's got 159,000 on the clock. My last one had 157k. The dealer said they would take 3500 for it. It's clean with normal wear and tear for a car with that many miles. I know all about the ford 3.8 supercharged motors from the 90's but I dont' know much about the GM ones. I test drove it and besides a vibration at 60mph (which I think is from having 4 different tires on it and missing a bit under boost. It runs great. Pulled codes and the code says misfire on #4. I'm guessing it just needs new plugs and wires.

Anything else I should look for? My only other concern is the inside rear view mirror is quite loose. Just need to figure out how to tighen it.

3500 seems like a really good deal. Thoughts?

 

If you're used to the NA 3800 from your last car, this is virtually identical from a maintenance and reliability standpoint. The same things you looked for on your last car are the same here.

I would say there is one exception- I'd look for evidence of modding. Look especially closely at the supercharger pulley to see if the bolt has been removed or if it has wear marks from being removed or installed. I'd also look to see if it appears to be a stock 3.8" pulley.

I wouldn't touch a modded l67 without a lot more investigation, especially with how cheap the cars are now and how many uninformed kids are buying them.


I do find it odd that they're selling the car with mechanical issues, especially a check engine light. I get that they don't want to put $500 in tires on a $3500 car, but you'd think they'd resolve engine issues so it wasn't throwing codes. I'd definitely be careful with that if you do decide to buy it - it certainly could be plugs, but it could also be more. If it really is just plugs, they could fix it for $10 and an hours labor. Being that they haven't done that to fix the issue, id be very concerned it could be worse.

 

$3500.00 for one of those is not a bad deal.

 

I told them I don't mind doing the plugs and wires myself and they jumped when I tossed the $3000 offer on the table. Out the door with taxes tags and title fees $3300. I think I got a pretty good deal. I did plugs and wires twice on the old car and it looks just about like the same job on this one. I'll have them changed before I drive it to work on Monday. So far I can really tell the difference in the way it handles. Also noticed when pulling in a parking space at the store that it doesn't seem to turn the wheels quite as sharp as the old car making the turning circle just a bit wider.

 

Still sounds fishy to me. They could've done plugs and wires themselves for less than $50, but they were ok taking $500 off if you do it yourself? I hope it's as easy to fix as you think it'll be, I just can't figure out why they wouldn't have put the tiny bit of money in to get more out of their car in the first place.

 

I think they knew it would be quick flip. We stumbled upon it when we called looking for another car (that they had sold). They had just gotten it in less than 24 hours ago. Did an oil change today and got to checking some things and yep, both front wheel bearings are starting to get a bit loose. Ah well I've replaced one before on the old car so doing it again this weekend won't be that bad. After that the only other problem I have found is with the inside mirror. Super loose. Took it off the window to get a better look at it and the metal ring that keeps tension on the plastic fingers that goes around the ball in the ball and socket joint is off. I can't figure out how to get it back on. Tried snap ring plyers to spread it open but they won't open it quite far enough before it slips loose.

 

Wow, what a pain in the butt putting on new front wheel bearing is. I had to replace one on the last car and it took a good bit of pounding with the 4 pound sledge hammer to get the axle out of the hub but the one of this car is just dumb. I've had a 7 ton 3 arm puller tightened up against it for 24 hours as tight as my impact wrench will get it. I've been spraying WD40 rust release, liquid wrench and a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone on it every few hours. After sitting like that for 24 hours I beat on it with a 4 pound sledge for over an hour. Damn thing won't budge.

My next plan is to remove the entire assembly from the car and set the hub up vertically so I can pool some penetrating fluid in there and let it soak for another 24 hours to see if gravity will help pull it down around the shaft.

Geez what a pain!

 

with what you paid a bit of work is worth it
hope you can get the axle sorted, when you started tear down was it also due for brakes?
mine is 157K and many things needed replaced around 100K it all depends on how much of that is done or not done
I don't do my own so these things cost more for me,props to you guys that do your own wrenching

 

another idea .... your wrecked car is a parts car ... do you know where it ended up?
go get parts of it

 

The accident happed about 60 miles from my house so to go get parts off the old one would take me about 2 hours worth of driving. And I'm not exactly sure where it ended up.

The brakes will be replaced while they are off. The rotors are good enough to get turned for $15 a side. The pads just happen to be the exact same Durlast Max pads that I put on the old one so I'll just cash in my limited lifetime warranty and get a free set.

However today I took the entire knuckle assembly off the car and soaked it for 12 hours in oil. I beat on it for an hour after work and it's still stuck. I give up. I'll take it down to the machine shop on Monday and have the press it out. I'm guessing it will cost me 10 bucks. I'll have the rotor turned while I'm there. When I get back I should be ready to reassemble the passenger side and start tear down on the drivers side. I'm praying that side is not stuck as well but I bet it is.