Reducing Knock/Engine Temps.
#21
Honestly, you're better off buying a scanner/Aeroforce gauge rather then spending money on exhaust - if you're even debating exhaust vs. scanner. Especially if you're only doing something behind the cat.
#22
I wouldn't worry about buying the aeroforce gauge yet because 1) your not likely knocking and 2) the gauge won't be able to do anything about it if you are (except tell you to take it easy). An aeroforce gauge can only tell you if you are getting KR, but it won't stop KR. If you want to attack the KR directly through the PCM have someone scan & tune. But with your modest mods, I don't think KR should be a big thing yet, especially if you continue on the path of modding to remove KR without dropping a pulley yet
#24
Don't get rid of your AC, I wish I hadn't. It's not worth the minimal gains - and it doesn't make you lose any power if it's not on.
#26
Ways to reduce heat and knock...remove the engine mat. (sits on top of the hood it is there to keep the heat in and to reduce noise) and what everyone has already said.
Now do you or are you getting a custom tuned pcm? If so then have them in there change the setting for your fan turn on temp otherwise it will not matter what your tstat is. That is mainly controlled on pcm fan settings also if you get a 160 tstat and set your fans for it...on the later years (02ish + pontiac and I don't know what year it is on our cars) they have a warmup check in the pcm where if your car doesn't get above 180 in a set amount of time it will pop a code. I hope this helps.
PSST before they redesigned the oil filters you could use a 4.3 liter V6 filter on the 3800 engines. PF52 was the Acdelco part number but now I heard they will not work. By using that filter it will give you an extra half quart so you can fill 5 quarts in it instead of 4 and 1/2. I guess when I need to change the oil I will be buying some 4.3 filters and seeing which one will work for the monte.
Now do you or are you getting a custom tuned pcm? If so then have them in there change the setting for your fan turn on temp otherwise it will not matter what your tstat is. That is mainly controlled on pcm fan settings also if you get a 160 tstat and set your fans for it...on the later years (02ish + pontiac and I don't know what year it is on our cars) they have a warmup check in the pcm where if your car doesn't get above 180 in a set amount of time it will pop a code. I hope this helps.
PSST before they redesigned the oil filters you could use a 4.3 liter V6 filter on the 3800 engines. PF52 was the Acdelco part number but now I heard they will not work. By using that filter it will give you an extra half quart so you can fill 5 quarts in it instead of 4 and 1/2. I guess when I need to change the oil I will be buying some 4.3 filters and seeing which one will work for the monte.
Last edited by Chevy Commando; 07-15-2010 at 05:44 PM.
#27
It seems like you ARE having the same problem I was with the random performance loss, I think you might have a problem with KR. Get your car scanned and you willl know for sure.
Last edited by wht02monte; 07-16-2010 at 08:13 AM.
#28
and that a/c thing makes sense ill keep it then, also i already have the custom tuned pcm from milzy, i think it already has all that crap done but either way a tstats gonna open when it gets to 180* so why would a pcm matter?
#29
I know i should go with a tstat, im thinking 180 but would 160 be too low? and why?
I also don't know if I'd mess with the stock plugs either- since you're NA. IMO, stock platinums are fine NA, and will last 100k miles.
can a better oil filter help? if so which brand?
I would think high octane will make a bigger difference then anything else.
how can i test for knock? sometimes when i want to go fast it just wont go, and i assumed that was knock.
I hate to say it, but I really don't think your problem is knock- KR from knock should be virtually seamless and pretty consistent run to run- if you're driving one time, and its far slower than it is any other time, chances are thats from some actual problem. You should never be able to actually notice the car bogging from KR- especially on an NA car. Did it just start after the pcm or did it always do it?
Honestly, I think buying a scan tool or an aeroforce gauge to monitor KR on an NA engine is a waste of money. KR won't cause any damage on an NA engine, and there are no mods you can do which would raise KR again (other than adding boost or nitrous).
Although I still use Dino fuel
ive considered dropping the a/c pulley
#30
180, or heck - even stock. I know having the engine run cooler helps reduce KR, but I don't think it helps KR enough to warrant the heat loss in the winter. I've got a drilled 180 in my monte (will go to a 160 once I get it out here to AZ)- and I ran a drilled (much smaller holes) 180 back when I had my gtp. I will say, the heat difference between my GTP and Impala (with a stock Tstat) was pretty noticeable, especially when you were trying to clean ice and such from the windshield. Living that far north, I'd personally leave it as is.
I also don't know if I'd mess with the stock plugs either- since you're NA. IMO, stock platinums are fine NA, and will last 100k miles.
Help lower KR- no.
X2, nothing on your list- even if you did a major mod like headers or something, would lower your KR more than going from 87 to 93.
You need some type of scan tool capable of reading KR from the pcm; and you need to go for a drive- and check what the KR is during WOT.
I hate to say it, but I really don't think your problem is knock- KR from knock should be virtually seamless and pretty consistent run to run- if you're driving one time, and its far slower than it is any other time, chances are thats from some actual problem. You should never be able to actually notice the car bogging from KR- especially on an NA car. Did it just start after the pcm or did it always do it?
Honestly, I think buying a scan tool or an aeroforce gauge to monitor KR on an NA engine is a waste of money. KR won't cause any damage on an NA engine, and there are no mods you can do which would raise KR again (other than adding boost or nitrous).
I think everybody on here is still using dino fuel in their monte- unless there is some oddball biodiesel conversion I haven't seen yet
I agree with nitehawk- a properly working AC compressor draws virtually no power with the clutch off (ie AC off)- so the only downside to the system is the weight. If you're not getting hardcore into drag racing or fuel economy, then the tiny weight reduction of the AC system is kinda useless. Personally, you paid for AC when you bought the car, and the system is already in and working (I assume)- so you may as well use it. I will admit I'm deleting it in my monte (have a bracket to mount the alternator in its spot)- but even back in IN, there is no way I'd delete AC on a daily driver, especially for the super minimal gain.
I also don't know if I'd mess with the stock plugs either- since you're NA. IMO, stock platinums are fine NA, and will last 100k miles.
Help lower KR- no.
X2, nothing on your list- even if you did a major mod like headers or something, would lower your KR more than going from 87 to 93.
You need some type of scan tool capable of reading KR from the pcm; and you need to go for a drive- and check what the KR is during WOT.
I hate to say it, but I really don't think your problem is knock- KR from knock should be virtually seamless and pretty consistent run to run- if you're driving one time, and its far slower than it is any other time, chances are thats from some actual problem. You should never be able to actually notice the car bogging from KR- especially on an NA car. Did it just start after the pcm or did it always do it?
Honestly, I think buying a scan tool or an aeroforce gauge to monitor KR on an NA engine is a waste of money. KR won't cause any damage on an NA engine, and there are no mods you can do which would raise KR again (other than adding boost or nitrous).
I think everybody on here is still using dino fuel in their monte- unless there is some oddball biodiesel conversion I haven't seen yet
I agree with nitehawk- a properly working AC compressor draws virtually no power with the clutch off (ie AC off)- so the only downside to the system is the weight. If you're not getting hardcore into drag racing or fuel economy, then the tiny weight reduction of the AC system is kinda useless. Personally, you paid for AC when you bought the car, and the system is already in and working (I assume)- so you may as well use it. I will admit I'm deleting it in my monte (have a bracket to mount the alternator in its spot)- but even back in IN, there is no way I'd delete AC on a daily driver, especially for the super minimal gain.
i really think what im noticing most that seems like its bogging down is when my engine gets hot, it sucks in more of the dense/moist humid air, its been pretty humid lately, so i think thats what im noticing
as for the a/c i never use it, i usually have my windows down, but i dont think i could ever get rid of it, always good to have some day