I'm gonna bring that up since I'll be getting a call from them today. I'll bring up the 340/400 issue about being stock and the wheels. Or should I just pass on this one since it's a lil over and hour drive from me?

 

If you have the time & `gas..I'd check it out 4 that price.
If it is a "350" with a 400 & runs good it's not a bad price 4-Sure...Let us know what you decide....Good Luck

 

This is what I said to them by email. I'll be waiting for a response. I was taking a better look at the pictures and thinking and noticed the wheels aren't all the same. Also the 86 never came with a 350 and 400 turbo. So that's not right that the numbers are matching so it can't be original motor and tranny. How come you are willin to trade for a truc if you're asking for financial issues? Like I don't want to drive out over an hour to find out other stuff is wrong with it. Without the Vin number and pictures from under the hood and from the other side of the car and the rear I might have to pass on the car. Also, is impossible to take a vin number from an SS and transfer it to another car. It'll be unregisterable.

 

While I would not have called him out on everything in one email, it is good to get that out that you are knowledgeable of the specifics of the car. Don't be surprised if you get either ignored, or if he gets very defensive with you because you called in to question his car (I see this a lot)

While we know that the 350 cannot be Numbers matching, you can ask him to show you how he determined that. Most people think it means that they didn't replace the motor. It is actually a partial VIN stamped on the motor, as well as the casting number and date codes matching the year of the vehicle. The Casting number will be stamped at the back of the motor near the distributor and may be hard to see. i believe it is on the driver's side. The date code and the partial VIN will be stamped into the pad at the front of the motor, just ahead of the passenger side cylinder head. There is also a suffix code with the date code that will help tell what the motor should be.

Here is a picture of the locations:


And here is an example of the engine ID stamped into the front pad (this might be covered in grease, oil, dirt, paint etc, so it might be hard to read. Bring a rag just in case):


A couple good resources for IDing the block are here (not necessarily g-body specific, but useful):
Small Block Chevy Engine Block Identification

Chevy Engine Codes

1967-69 Camaro Drivetrain Decoding

Chevy Smallblock Decoding

These are some of the resources I used to figure out the 350 in my 70 blazer was actually a 70 impala block, and the one from my old 70 Suburban was actually a 76 truck block.

Wheels on the car wouldn't bother me. For the price, you can find a set yourself. As long as there are 4 matching wheels, I would be fine there.

One concern is the lack of SS stripes on it. I believe all SS has the stripe kit over the wheel wells. Since this does not, it could be indicative of possibly having been repainted in the past.

Monte Carlo SS info

Also, if this happens to be a T-top car (doesn't appear so), you need to remove the t-tops and check for rust in the center post and windshield frame of the car. This is very common, and it really hard to fix. If the owner didn't want the t-tops removed, i would be hesitant that they were trying to cover something up. If everything else checked out on the car, I would state that your purchase would hinge on seeing those areas.

If it truely is a th400 trans, you'll probably want to find a 200R4 or another comparable one with overdrive if you plan to drive it a lot.

The unevenness in the pictures I believe is the pictures. Check it out yourself when you get there.

Check for tears in the nose cone, particularly the passenger side by the fog light, as it looks like it might be torn there. I don't believe those parts are cheap to replace, and isn't real easy to repair.

 

Oki got a response from the wife today. The guyy has been away so he's calling me today in the evening. But what she said is that when he looked at it, she had written 400 wrong and he disnt know where she got that from. They said that it was from the factory that it came with the 350 engine and the turbo 3 speed. The previous owner over 20 years ago had ordered it like that. Once I get the Vin I will check everything out. I will try to get the block number if I am able to do so. I don't think it is a t top. I'm pretty sure of that. I will check the cone and underneath. But if it is a 350 with the three speed, very minor surface rust, and just at 100k on it and the family is willing to drive it to me, isn't 2000 a fair price?

 

Still doesn't make sense. You can not just special order whatever engine you want unless it is on the option list. I just wouldn't trust them as far as i could throw them.

The price almost seems too good to be true, you know.

 

I have heard of montes that were special ordered with a 350 before so it's not impossible. From what it sounds like she was being honest it was a mistake on her bhalf posting the ad. What should I ask the husband when he calls today?

 

Just so I can save myself a trip if it's too much.

 

Ask for the VIN so you can run a carfax (whether you do or not is up to you, but it's a valid reason to have the VIN)

Ask if he has the build sheet or window sticker for it. That could confirm if it was ordered that way. Many times though, when someone says it came from the factory like that, they just don't know, or it was installed by the dealer once the car arrived there, so it would still not be factory.

Also, you can check the RPO code tag too to find out what it came with:

Those are the RPO codes for the motor, trans, and SS Package. You will find the RPO Codes on the SPID label on the inside of the trunk lid. If it is missing, or the VIN on this label doesn't match the VIN of the car, then the trunk might have been painted/replaced. If the VINs don't match, then you can't go off this info. LG4 will be there if it is the Regular 305, which is also indicative of it being a non-ss.

If you get the VIN, you can go to Compnine.com/vid.php and put it in and get a list of options. I just checked a VIN from another 86 and it works. Be warned, you can only use it twice per day per computer.

A turbo 3 speed would either be a TH350 or a TH400 I believe. The Monte Carlo should have the TM200-R4, which is a 4 speed with overdrive. Look at the gear selector and see if it has 4 positions to check.

Overall, in my opinion, if it is ready to go drivable, and you can put it on the road without any work, the surface rust is minimal like you state (No holes anywhere) and the bumpers and interior aren't all beat up, I would say that $2000 is a fair price. Just make sure that you tell them you want to look the car over in person before handing over the cash, just to make sure they didn't grossly mis-represent something. If they did, you can either walk away from the deal, or try and haggle. Don't let them try and pressure you into a sale just cause they drove it to you. If it is not how they described it, then it's not what you thought you were buying.

As for more questions, ask if any of the headlights/tail lights are chipped, broken or cracked. Also ask if the front or rear bumpers have any tears, cracks, deformation, or other damage. Ask weather it is a 2bbl or 4 bbl carb and ask if the motor has had any performance work. When was it's last inspection? Ask if there are any major dents on the body and if there is any bondo in the car. Also ask if it has been repainted. Ask if there is any rust on the bottoms of the doors and if they sag at all. Ask if the exhaust is stock or if it is a custom exhaust. Ask if the mileage on it is true.

Overall, It doesn't look bad, and even though people are hung up on the 350 thing, it still doesn't seem like a bad deal, as long as you are willing to take the chance. Make sure you have the cash to fix something should it go wrong with it.

 

You stated you aren't really worried about the numbers matching thing. I wouldnt be either. That appears to be a decent car in decent shape. If it runs good and all looks good to you, I think its a great deal. Guys-this is a $2000 car, not a 10K car. You might even get it cheaper. I like it. Anyways issues I know of are rusting under door lip and move trunk carpet out of way and see if fender wells are rusting into trunk area. I had an 86 and someone had put a 350 in it. Loved that car. Much better than a lazy 180hp 305. Good luck. If he sends you pics let us know. Oh and if it really wasn't an SS, do you care? I wouldnt. again its a 2k car and if you are not planning on sinking thousands into, and just making a nice driver, go for it. 2 years ago, I paid 1400 for an 86 SS total rust bucket. To much for me and resold it for that. So that one looks like a bargain. Just check it out GOOD. Good Luck.