Ok...I know I've seen a bunch of threads of what people used/done to their braking system.. I've had some recent issues with my emergency brake and the rear braking system is full of rust and needs a complete overhaul. My brake lines are pretty rusted in some spots and in need of replacement.

I was under the car yesterday to finally see how bad it truly was, and yea...its pretty bad back there.

So, I'm a little confused on what is needed & what is best for the front and rear. I was told if I go for camaro calipers I'm going to need to drill and tap the bracket?

Can anyone give a parts list for everything I need? What do you recommend? I'm in need of a serious overhaul.
New front and rear calipers and brackets if needed. Dual piston upgrade(what car, and what do I have to do?
drilled and slotted rotors.
suggested brake pads. Currently using Duralast Gold ceramics. pretty pleased with them.
Stainless steel braided hoses
New brake dust shields all around (rusted & mainly need rears)
Brake lines all around.
May change master cylinder if needed. (any upgrades compatible? I know its not necessary, but if i'm doing everything I might as well.)
full kit of emergency brake hardware probably getting this from work. we sell the shoes and hardware..

 

What I got so far:
Parking brake hardware & shoe kit ACdelco # 1792060

nothing else....

 

I did a lot of research on the dual piston f-body front brake caliper swap (but I opted against it for myself). Here's what you need:
- Pair of front f-body dual piston calipers. Used in model years '98-'02 Camaro/Firebird (does not matter what trim level, it was standard). And of course the F-body pads.
- The best solution for the bracket used that bolts to the steering knuckle is to drill and tap the two holes (as the stock bolts that hold that bracket to the knuckle are bigger then the F-body bolts). I believe Jerry has the sizes need for that.
- Montes already have 12" rotors, so any stock sized Monte rotor will work (Grand Prix owners need to upgrade there rotors).
- The rubber flex line you can go two different ways. Bend the bracket that holds it to allow a little extra slack or replace with a slightly long line (the guys that go longer lines also do for the braided stainless).
- Remember when installing, make sure the bleed screw is facing up. If not, you will never properly bleed the brake. If it's not facing up, you have the wrong caliper on the wrong side.

That is all that is required. After that, just do a brake job.

The concept is great, you have more brake pad hitting the rotor surface and 2 pistons pushing it there to again improve contact.

 

Now... I walked away from the F-body caliper swap myself. The reason was at the time, I read from other w-body owners that there appeared to be increased pedal travel until the brakes "grabbed". Not being able to drive one of these cars, it's hard to understand what you read and plus, it's hard to know if the brakes were properly bled (which could cause the issue). out of about 4-5 people that have done the swap, it was a 50/50 split on how large or small the pedal change was (and I did not know the mechanic knowledge of those people).

So I went with better quality pads/rotors for the stock brakes.

After I went my ways, people like Jerry and a couple others here on MCF did the swap. People that I feel are experienced and can properly explain the changes of this mod. They all say it's worth it, they all said the pedal travel change to when the brakes grab is minimal if at all. Since at the time, I had a set of used F-body calipers and was getting ready to pick calipers to send for powder coating, I probably would have gone the F-body route.

I'm still happy with what I did. Here's the parts I used for stock Monte calipers:
- Bendix front ceramic pads - D699CT
- Bendix rear ceramic pads - D698CT
- AC Delco Advantage front rotors - 18A813A
- AC Delco Advantage front rotors - 18A811A

I am 99% happy with this combo. The reason I'm not 100% happy is that I wanted to stay away from Chinese made rotors and sadly the AC Delco's are Chinese (I did not know that when I bought them, I would have suspected AC to be U.S. or Mexico). The Bendix pads are U.S. made.

Great stopping, low dust. I'm happy.

Hope all this helps Jen!

 

There is no advantage gained by changing out your master cylinder. Bigger is not better here, a smaller diameter pistoned master cylinder would provide more force through the lines and give a bit better braking power. I can't hold my car back so am now going to install an electric vacuum pump to supplement my vacuum pressure to hold back the car. I actually have the F-body brake modification and I feel there is a significant increase in stopping abilities over my previous OEM Monte calipers and 1/2 size smaller pads. I still have for sale an extra set of F-Body calipers already red in color, stainless brake lines for the front, and N.I.B. Extreme street performance brake pads. If interested I can post more pictures. They are listed here in the "For sale" section, did that about 7 months ago.

Description for EVP: COMP Cams #5500 Electric Vacuum Pump Kit

A high lift cam in a performance street vehicle can offer up great sound and excellent performance. But if your car or truck has power brakes, a minimum of 16 inches of vacuum is critical to proper brake booster operation, something not always present if your camshaft features enhanced overlap. The COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump ensures that your vacuum stays between 18 and 22 inches so you never have to worry whether your brakes will be there when you need them.

Triggered by a vacuum switch included in the kit, the COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump requires a 12V negative ground system and only operates when vacuum drops below 18psi and then turns off over 22psi. The kit includes all of the parts necessary to install the unit along with wiring, hoses and brackets. The system utilizes a highly efficient electric pump, relay switch and distributor with vacuum switch, which should be mounted close together for the most effective performance.

SSB 28146

 

ok, to get this clear its just the bracket that needs to be drilled and tapped.
So far I found ZZP has a stainless brake hose kit for $109...know of any a little cheaper?

 

if I was to change it, its just to change it. I'm not taking any risk of failure in the future knowing how rusted the lines already are. For all I know it could be original fluid in there, and whatever rust and corrosion is there on the line could be in that master. If there isn't any upgrades or better quality brands out there I'll probably go with a ac delco from rockauto

 

I have stainless lines and other brake stuff to include new ATE high temp brake fluid for sale. Would give you a smokin deal on the stuff if your interested.

 

ooooooooo~ maybe

 

You are correct, it's simply two bolt holes on both brackets (not the caliper itself) that need drilled and tapped. Figure that.... FWD lower powered W-body cars have THINNER bolts holding the entire assembly then the full on F-body!! Funny...

As for brake lines, I've heard MANY people in non-Wbody performance worlds saying to stay away from Chinese lines. Fittings on the lines blow off

I'm running Goodridge lines (made in the U.S.A.) myself. But they are supposedly not long enough for the F-body swap unless you bend the bracket holding them.