Ya'll know I am a Finance Manager for a Chevrolet Dealership, but before I was a manager, I was the #1 salesman for a number of years. So let me tell ya, I can make a dealer cry negotiating a deal. So when any of you are about to buy a car (new or used), let me know, and I will help you structure a deal that will guarantee you are getting the absolute best deal possible.

 

thats pretty nice of ya man, but could u advise me on used car buying?

 

You couldn't have offered this last year could you Craig? [sm=insomnia.gif]

I work for UPS. We're "Suppose" to get a preice break on New/Used/Leased GM vehicles. My local Chevy dealer sure didn't give me any price break on my '06 LTZ.

Two weeks ago I was on the phone with Chevy asking about the factory warranty on my car? They asked me if there was anything else they could help with me so I asked about my being a UPS employee and GM offering price breaks to us? They called the Chevy dealer to ask why they didn't offer a lower price to me when I bought the car? The sales manager assured Chevy he would look in to this and call me back within 24 hours with an answer.

Like I said. This was two weeks ago. (meaning no answer from the sales manager)

 

Chris & RJ

RJ:
What he is doing is called avoidance tatic, and if he can avoid you long enough, you will give up and go away! Maybe never to return... but in his eyes, you probablynever go back to him anyways.

It is a technic that I DO NOT use. Right or Wrong, I would call you back and tell you the truth, and the truth is, just because you are entitled to the discount, he does not have to give it to you - or, he gave it to you and then raised the price in hidden costs like $200 wheel locks and/or $500 air bag safety locks, etc. Often put on the "Buyer's Order/Purchase Order" as Miscellanous accessories, or dealer fees.

When you are entitled to a supplier or employee discount, you are ALSO ENTITLED to see the INVOICE. On a real invoice there will befive colums. First column is equipment description, second column is MSRP pricing for those items, third column is the Invoice pricing for those items. The fouth column is pricing description and around the middle of the page will be GMS (employee), Supplier (yours), MRM (Total MSRP), Memo (Money the dealer receives for selling a car at GMS pricing). In the fifth column is the actual cost or pricing.

The thing is, you can negotiate a better price than Supplier -- which is typically about $500 above Invoice. YOU ALWAYS TELL THE SALEMAN YOU GET GMS to assure he shows you the Invoice. Then negotiate for Invoice or below. Towards the bottom of the Invoice is HB (Holdback) and you can probably get half of that money. So, if it says $400 you can ask for Invoice minus $200 and get it - ONLY IF YOU HOLD FIRM! and ARE READY TO BUY NOW!!!

Chris:
Used cars are fun, because four dealers can have the same car with the same equipment and mileage, and each will be priced differently because each bought their's at a different price.

You know you need to check each car over thoroughly and sadly enough (as I learn, even a new car), for tape lines, over-spray, color differences, and tracking -- how well the car rolls straight (does the car roll straight or does it roll slightly cocked to one side or the other -- a sign of frame damage). You need to have a notebook with you when you check each car and write down EVERY FLAW on the body, tires, brakes, engine compartment, trunk, interior, and functions (pwr windows, radios, seats, steering wheel controls, etc.)

If you are going to trade your car in, you need to, NO... YOU MUST, detail every aspect of your car. Oil Change, if older, trans oil too, radiator flushed, engine compart clean (use tire dressing on all the belts and hosing), interior and door jams need to be spotless, your car washed, clayed, polished, and waxed. Wheels and tires standing tall and equal tire pressure. Trunk clean and NOTHING in your car interior or trunk! NEVER let you car be appraised ANY OTHER WAY! AND ALWAYS GO WITH THE APPRAISER!!! The salesman is going to try and distract you, so that you will not go with the appraiser. And if you DO GO, the appraiser will make it a point to point out EVERY FLAW on your car, JUST SHUT UP, NEVER SAY A WORD, and let them do their thing. I MEAN KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT! I don't care if your car has a bent frame and he mentions it or not, just take notes. This will drive the appraiser nuts, and he is going to yell at your salesman for letting you go for the appraisal. The salesman is not your friend, even if he is your best friend in real life. During the negotiation process, he is your salesman only and you owe him/her NOTHING! The purpose of you riding with the appraiser is take notes and to see if you agree their finds, period.

ALWAYS, ALWAYS look on the internet and find at least 6 or more, similar cars and have the printouts. These 6 cars are the cheapest cars within 500-miles with the

 

I sure hope your around in 2010 when I buy my Camaro :-)

 

That sounds like good sound advice! I think I've gotten screwed over a few times buying cars - I'll have to remember this when the Monte dies (hopefully never!) and I'm on the market for a replacement. Thanks!

 

Thanks Craig.

 

holy crap thanks d00d, but im gettin at truck made between 85-95 so i doput any dealer would have it. i refuse used car lots cos their legal con artists. i am gonna do a owner purchase. just need advice liek i know do compression checks, vacuum checks ect... is there anything in particular i should know/do?


thanks craig d00d you are truly a bud here

 

Know your t-i-t-l-e colors! Private owners can sell salvage cars & trucks... vehicles totalled in an accident, ex-military, or government, or commercial vehicles. NEVER, EVER buy an old Plow or Tow vehicle, way too hard on the motor, trans, suspension systems.

When you buy a truck, especially a used truck, you need to know a lot about the original model and what was standard and optional equipment. WHY? Because people buy a standard truck and put a tow hitch on it, but that is it. Trucks that came with a trailer or tow package also have a 100-amp alt, high-volume air cleaner, trans coolers, bigger shocks, an added leaf spring, etc., to make it fully ready to tow or trailer. See a trailer hitch, examine it REAL CLOSE.

4x4 trucks have a lot to inspect, but the biggest being the transfer case. Simply play with slipping the trans into netrual, then put it in rev, then drive and listen for clunks (not good), then put it into 4hi and drive it straight for about 1/4 mile - turning you may feel a slip -- on dry road this could be normal, but on dirt or wet road it is not. Then stop it, put it in 4 lo and drive it 20-30MPH tops and listen and feel with the window down and the radio off. The whine should be steady and low pitch. Staggered whine is not good, as well as clunks. After doing this, jump out and crawl underneath and check of leaks, (rear engine seal, transfer case, rear trans seal, rearend yoke. Now check the motor for leaks, water pump, radiator res, intake, front eng seal, etc. Pull and smell the trans dip stick - if you smell burnt anything walk away. If the fuild is not red and clear is also a sign of possible problem. Check coolant for bright green color, anything else is a sign of trouble.

Man... on a truck there is so much that needs to be examined. You need to drive it in a lot and do a swerve back and forth and then run it in a tight circle one way then the opposite side -- wheel bearings and suspension.

Well I hope this adds to your list of what to look for... Oh, how does the truck sit, level (bad) , front end high (bad), rearend high (normal), from front site, does it lean one way or the other, and same from the rear -- should sit level.