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6th Gen ('00-'05): ball joints/ control arms

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  #1  
Old 11-14-2015, 03:29 AM
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Default ball joints/ control arms

anybody got any opinions on replacing ball joints or replacing the whole front control arm w ball joints on a 2003 ss? seems to me for the price the control arm is the way to go? is one brand better than another? rock auto has dorman,mevotech and moog ranging 42$,54$ to 58$
 
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:50 AM
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I, personally, would go with the entire assembly.
Not sure which brand is better. I am sure others will tell you what they used and how they like them.
 
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Old 11-14-2015, 08:07 AM
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If your ball joints are riveted with the factory rivets, requiring the control arm to be removed from the car, I would also give some serious consideration to replacing the entire arm (depending on over all price of the joint vs the entire arm).
If you replace the entire arm, you know it's not rusting out and the bushings are also new (I had an arm rust through on a Grand Am, it damaged my fender and destroyed a CV half shaft when it happened).

As far as brands, I cannot speak to the quality of Dorman or Mevotech for a control arm (I do have Mevotech rear w-body laterals on my current Grand Am, but those are just solid bars with rubber bushings). There is something to be said about cost vs quality.
I have never known Moog to sell a bad part. Looking at the prices you mentioned, if you intend to keep the Monte for a long time, Moog does not look like it's that mush more expensive to be concerned with price, I would go Moog.
 
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:30 AM
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I agree with P343 and The Maniac.
The rivets just aren't worth dealing with compared to the minimal cost of a whole new control arm.
Moog is good. If you want to splurge ($100), get the Moog "Problem Solver" arms that have powdered metal gusher bearings and bolt-in ball joints for easier future replacement.
The stabilizer bar links are usually pretty worn also. You might want to replace them while you're at it. Maybe even tie rod ends and be done with it.
 

Last edited by plumbob; 11-14-2015 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:14 AM
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I am also in agreement, for the price it just made sense to replace the entire control arm
 
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by plumbob
The stabilizer bar links are usually pretty worn also. You might want to replace them while you're at it. Maybe even tie rod ends and be done with it.
I would go 100% on the end links! Good catch! But if you do tie rods, you will need an alignment.

Energy Suspension makes some nice end links. If you want their poly end links, you need part number 9.8122r.
 
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:01 AM
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Thanks all for the input! Im thinking control arm replacement is the way to go,Ive already done the front hubs, cv axles, sway bar and poly end links. got a little pop now when I hit lil pot holes etc, im thinking by replacing what I have it has stressed the parts I have not? ie: ball joints and tie rods? The outer tie rods are pretty cheap and easy but how hard are the inners AND how can you tell if they are bad??? thanks guys, I appreciate it : )...Claydoh
 
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:01 PM
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I agree with the rest here. For that price it just makes sense to go ahead and do it. Let us know which one you chose and how it turned out.
 
  #9  
Old 11-22-2015, 05:42 AM
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Ok I got a new question now! I have replaced my front hubs, front cv axles, new sway bar, new poly sway bar end links and I asked in this post about getting new inner and outer tie rods and new front control arms with new ball joints! my question is NOW.. I haven't replaced the tie rods or control arms yet, due to limited funds, BUT now I am getting a "clicking" noise mainly from the right side, like backing out of a parking spot steering right AND it seems to be getting worse! I don't hear/notice it when driving doing normal turns right and left, off ramps etc! WTF!!! like I said I have new cv shafts, sway bar, end links? but what would make this sound now??? HELP!!!
 
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Old 11-22-2015, 10:24 AM
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Might be brakes- worn pads or rotor, but it's odd that it only does it in reverse. Wear indicator tab might be bent or rotor warped. Try rolling the car with the engine off to see if it's duplicated. If no noise then, could be transmission.
 




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