I am lookin at a 05 Monte LS... anything specifically that I need to look for in a shake down when I test drive it....

Thanks,

Mike

 

[align=center] [/align][align=center]Hi `Mike, & Welcome to the Monte Carlo Family.[/align][align=center]Do a CarFax Report on the history of the Monte LS.[/align][align=center](Make sure it's not a flood car/wreck/rental)[/align][align=center]It pays to do your homework first, it's to late after : ([/align][align=center]Good Luck[/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Below is some information to consider when buying a used[/align][align=center]car. Also, check the MCF for reviews on the 05 Monte LS.[/align][align=center]Listed in our Most Active Topic Section.[/align][align=center]Good Luck, and let us know if your get a Awesome[/align][align=center]Chevrolet Monte Carlo.[/align][align=center][:-][/align][align=center]Below source from Edmunds[/align][align=center][:-][/align][align=center]Top 10 Tips on How To Test-Drive Used Cars
How a professional test driver finds the best value in used cars

[/align][align=center]Buyers know a useful test-drive is crucial in finding the best value in a used car. But few know how to perform an examination that will separate the good from the mediocre. Instead, most used-car shoppers just motor around a bit and listen to the sound system. However, if you employ the following test-driving techniques I've learned from years of being a professional driver, you'll have a better chance of separating clunkers from keepers, and find a safe, reliable used car.

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[ol][*]Have an open mind. A professional test driver must be unprejudiced. The products made by the driver's company may be better than the competition's in some areas and worse in others. And sometimes, modifications don't always change the car for the better.

Long ago, a friend did it the wrong way. He fell in lust with a sports car just by reading the classified ad. After the test-drive, he swooned like the father of a newborn: "Isn't she wonderful?" Then I got behind the wheel. This was before I'd started racing, but I didn't need a competition license to recognize toe steer: It's when worn suspension and steering components cause the wheels to point in random directions when the suspension moves. Also, after rapidly climbing toward the red zone, the water temperature gauge's needle dropped like a rock, which meant its probe was no longer touching coolant.

My first test-drive report said: "Buy it and your only hope is that the engine blows before the suspension kills you." The moral of this story is that as you evaluate each used car, leave your bias (whether positive or negative) at the door, and keep your analysis as objective as possible.

[*][b]Set a benchmark. Early in the development process, automakers and their suppliers set benchmarks. For instance: "Surpass Car A in ride comfort and match Car B in steering feel."

The used-car buyer must set their own benchmarks. Early in the process, you may not know which vehicle — or even which type of vehicle — you want. It's OK to be torn between an SUV and a sport coupe. Start by test-driving every vehicle you can get your hands on. Great sources are car rental agencies. Check out their vehicle sales lots. Often they have vehicles their counter personnel doesn't know about. Also inspect lesser-known and local rental companies, which often offer older cars. Know that the base version will ride and handle differently than uplevel variants. By scoring seat time in a variety of vehicles, you'll likely gain the kind of perspective that will help you to more accurately evaluate ride and handling dynamic

 

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Inspect the car in daylight or in a well-lit area. You will need a safe space to open the doors and walk around.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Does the vehicle have all the equipment that is indicated by your research material? Note what’s missing.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Note all removable items. Specify which of these should be included in the sale.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Check for service records in the glove box. Look for an oil change sticker– was it changed recently?[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Write down the VIN. Later you can review it with a vehicle background reporting company likeCARFAX.comto check the vehicle’s details or to get a vehicle history report.[/align][/align][ul][/ul][align=center]
Exterior [/align][*][align=center]
Do wheels and hubcaps match all round? Do all tires have safe tread?[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Check panels individually for scratches; chips; drips, runs, overspray, etc. Compare panels for color match.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Check trim and other items attached to the exterior. These can be expensive to replace.[/align][/align][ul][/ul][align=center]
Interior [/align][*][align=center]
Remove any seat covers and sit in each seat to check its condition.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Push on all airbag covers to feel if they are still inside. If evidence of glue or tampering is present, the airbag may be missing.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Pull on all seat belts. Inspect for excessive wear and make sure they retract properly.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
Inspect the headliner for damage and condition.[/align][/align][*][align=center]
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Why an LS, an SS is a better car, although a little more money, you get more, unless you got a well equipped LS: traction control, 4wh disc brakes and ABS, 3.8L, better suspension, etc.
One option that I specifically looked for. Drivers side impact air bag, the one in the drivers seat. Only about 1 in 10 cars have it, and it makes no difference in the price of a used car. Also, I believe the high sport appearance package makes a big difference in looks, specifically, it has side skirts, front air dam, a verticle spioler, and diamond cut wheels, the best looking ones available stock. Again, no difference in price.
If bought from a GM dealer and certified, you can get a 100,000 mile drivetrainwarranty, and THAT is important.
Depends on how many $$$$ you want to spend. Also, the LS has less of a resale value.

 

One of the reasons I bought mine was because what a reliable car the Monte Carlo is. Something others have noticed though, is the steering. After a while, some of them develop a clunking sound when turning the wheels. I noticed this for the first time this morning. It's been a while since I've read about it, but I believe it's something minor. Anyone else here that had that problem, who could elaboratea little?

 

That's your Intermediate Steering Shaft (ISS) that needs re-packing with a special heavy grease with a special kit to do this. Mine is starting, also. It is the slip joint in the steering shaft, and it is a design problem, but they can't seem to get any vendors to come up with a better design, so it's the same flawed design they've had for years.