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15 mpg....?

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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Enzo354
The only reason I mentioned those tuners is that he can use them to check all of the numbers flowing through, its easier then just getting a code.
I believe most OBD-II scan tools can also retrieve info like that. I know the Snap-On I use provides numbers like KR, Injector Pulse Width, Air/Coolant temp, and a host of other values (some of which I have NO idea what they mean).
 
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #12  
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Right on well I'm gonna have to try to get the code read from somewhere this week. I'll post back when i get a code. Thanks for the help guys
 
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:50 AM
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You could have a few sensors that are going bad or are dirty that will affect your gas mileage.

The MAF (mass air flow) sensor on your throttle body could be dirty. The front bank o2 sensor (on your rear exhaust manifold) could be going bad. These 2 talk to the PCM and tell it how much fuel to dump.

You could also have a bad injector, that is just letting fuel drip out instead of getting sprayed.

Your Catalytic converter could also be clogging up, they are a very common problem with these cars, and they won't always throw a code that they are bad.

Also, your engine could just be really dirty. Perhaps you should try getting a couple cans of seafoam and doing the 3-step procedure for helping you clean out some of the carbon. Removing your TB and fully cleaning that is also pretty good to do.
 
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
You could have a few sensors that are going bad or are dirty that will affect your gas mileage.

The MAF (mass air flow) sensor on your throttle body could be dirty. The front bank o2 sensor (on your rear exhaust manifold) could be going bad. These 2 talk to the PCM and tell it how much fuel to dump.

You could also have a bad injector, that is just letting fuel drip out instead of getting sprayed.

Your Catalytic converter could also be clogging up, they are a very common problem with these cars, and they won't always throw a code that they are bad.

Also, your engine could just be really dirty. Perhaps you should try getting a couple cans of seafoam and doing the 3-step procedure for helping you clean out some of the carbon. Removing your TB and fully cleaning that is also pretty good to do.
Thanks for the advise chibi I was hoping you would post your knowledge (suggestions). I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body when I did my LIM. I guess I should check my injectors since that's a pretty important part of my fuel delivery. I have a borla exhaust system so its not the catalytic converter. But I think I'm gonna try the seafoam thing.. hopefully that will help.
 
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #15  
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Your Borla exhaust starts after the Cat, so it could still be the Cat.
 
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
Your Borla exhaust starts after the Cat, so it could still be the Cat.
Oh wow.. I don't know why I thought I didn't have a cat... Damn. Well.. I think I'm gonna do my catalytic converter soon Should I get a downpipe with cat from zzp? The 2.5 304ss with cat? New 02 sensors?
 

Last edited by blueSS; Dec 6, 2011 at 06:15 PM.
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 08:54 PM
  #17  
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If you need to replace your cat and want to improve performance, a 2.5" ZZP 304ss DP with high flow cat is a nice way to go (I put one on my Monte).
I actually cut open my original DP before I sent it in for a core, and ZZP is right, the stocker is restricted.
Keep in mind, any aftermarket CAT may result in an erroneous Check Engine code. There are fixes for this (best is have the code deleted from the PCM, other method is using the spark plug anti-fouler trick to space it out of the exhaust). I had my ZZP DP in for a whole summer, no code, winterized it and due to other mods, coded deleted the following spring.
As for the O2, don't worry about the downstream (after the CAT) O2. It does not affect performance, it just measures emissions. If you decide to change your upstream one (on the rear exhaust manifold), go AC Delco (preferred) or Delphi. Each O3 reads reads a little different, GM calibrated your PCM to work best with the AC Delco one.
 
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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Right on I just order a 2.5" zzp 304ss DP. As for the o2 sensor... I ordered a overkill pcm from will already (last week) so should i still just get a AC Delco o2 sensor?

p.s. i love this forum
 
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by blueSS
Right on I just order a 2.5" zzp 304ss DP. As for the o2 sensor... I ordered a overkill pcm from will already (last week) so should i still just get a AC Delco o2 sensor?

p.s. i love this forum
If you are replacing the upstream O2, yes, stay with AC Delco (or I've done well with Delphi in my cars as well as others on various 3800 forums).

I would not worry at all about the downstream. Just make sure that Overkill PCM has the codes deleted for the CAT (I believe that is the PO420).
 
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 01:03 AM
  #20  
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Right on... thanks for the help. I gotta stop spending money now xD
 



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