Awesome thanks.

 

So I need a new Harmonic Balancer because the one I have , the thin metal in the inside is dented and mishaped.

Any pointers?

 

Salvage or new? Sometimes the harmonic balance will de-laminate and cause a rough running engine.. out of balance. Usually unlikly BUT it could happen with a used item. I would see pricing from NAPA or a dealership for new.

 

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the information in this thread. I would not have been able to complete the job if it wasn't for the info shared here. Seemed to have to order alot of the parts and made the cam locks. I was doing this for my son and was determined not to have to buy the tool kit (that no one carried local)for a one time use. Thanks so much guys!!

 

It almost the end.. heads are on.. cam chambers on... intake/injectors are on. Before I place the plenum, I RECHECKED the cams. Set crank to TDC and cylinder #1 at TOP. Rear set of cams should be in "flat" position. They were NOT; one was slightly beyond "flat".. the other was perfectly flat. I removed the cam/cog bolt and locking washer. Replaced the bolt. Using a 15mm breaker, I rotated the cam 350 deg clockwise back to flat. Replace the locking washer tighten and rotate the engine 360 deg. Check the front cams. Check to see if both cams are in "flat" position. If not, repeat procedure w/ removing the locking washer and rotating the cam clockwise to flat. Replace washer and tighten all cam bolts; USE A COG LOCKING DEVISE! DO NOT TIGHTEN EXPECTING THE BELT TO HOLD THE CAM POSTION!. Buy one off eBay. At this point, I installed all the items needed to operate the serpentine belt WITHOUT the timing belt cover. I installed the battery; removed the fuel pump fuse and using the ignition key rotate the engine a few times to seat the timing belt and check the cam time one last time. Re-check the allen bolts holding the timing belt pulleys to be certain they are tight. Everything is good. Install the cam covers. Install the plugs and wires. Install the throttle body w/ heater hoses, throttle cables, and fuel lines. Good idea to replace the three O-rings for the heater lines; two are one size and one is smaller. They are very cheap. Use plumbers silicon grease (from Home Depot) to lube O-rings. They slip in very very easy. One small bolt holds the heater tube and throttle body tight. Throttle body seems to still move however the plenum and bracketry evenually hold it secure. Install the plenum with a new gasket at the intake and from the throttle biody to avoid ANY and ALL air leaks. Install the evap. switches and vacumn lines (replace vacummn tubing.. it's cheap and excludes air leaks). Connect all the "Packard All- weather" plugs. Two to the throttle; One under the throttle for water temp sender (I forgot this one and it is near impossible to connect; do it early!) Install the coils; three connectors. Connect spark plug wires. Install fans. top off fluids. REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP FUSE. After I run the engine and visually check the timing belt, I will remove the serpentine belt and install the belt cover. IF you run without the cover, you will eventally ingest someting into the belt and that will be catastophic to the Z motor.
If I forgot anything bring it up... there is always room for improvemnt and eliminating a problem before it gets impossible to repair. ,

[quote=G-man[/quote]

 

anyone hear of the 10* exhuast cam mod for a touch more performance and quicker throttle response, was on another website(possibly 60degv6) and seen this, anyone try it? i gotta do my belt soon and was thinkin about it, do you think it would still be effective on boosted applications

 

It was on 60degV6. It referenced changing the exhaust a certain degree before or after and intake a sililar change. Letting the exhaust stay open longer or closing it sooner and the intake opening sooner. It almost appears to be an early variable cam setup from a newer motor.
Are you going to try it? You would need a degree wheel on the crank.

 

Last thing for me. Does the notch on the harmonic balancer -on outer the right edge when aligned with the triangle on the front cover simbolize TDC 1?

 

Notch on harmonic balancer should align with the triangle mark on block. Re move plug from #1. turn notor over by hand until a driver placed in hole raises to top. Then align the marks. That is TDC 1.
I thought the notch was a rear(inner) of balancer.

 

Well take a quick look please. I would like to have the right timing before I finally re install my engine.

the blue box is roughly in the same area where the notch is on the outer edge of the balancer. thats the notch that Im refering too? Now I did notice i notch on the silver metal, is that what you are refering too?

Because the alldata instructions have the woodruff groove on the crank shaft facing the 12 oclock poistion and that groove doesnt match up with the triangle part.