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Repair Guide: lower control arm changed

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  #1  
Old 01-07-2012, 01:43 PM
monte67's Avatar
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Location: Binghamton, NY
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Default lower control arm changed

I changed out the passenger lower control arm this morning on my daughters 2001 monte ls. The vertical bushing was shot. I was going to replace the bushing for $20 bucks, but decided to replace the complete control arm. So I bought the dorman lower control arm part to do this job. The car has 107,000, so it made sense to have a part with a new ball joint and 2 new bushings. It took about 1hr to do. Here are the tools I used.

1. Jack and one jack stand
2. lug wrench
3. 25mm socket - for control arm nuts
4. 18mm socket- for control arm horizontal bushing bolt
5. 18mm wrench- for ball joint nut
6. T55 torx for 3/8 ratchet-for bolt that goes thru vertical bushing
7. 1/2 socket- for sway bar end link
8. 1/2 wrench- for sway bar end link
9. pickle fork- to separate ball joint from steering knuckle
10. hammer- hit pickle fork
11. long screw driver- to get the cotter pin out and in
12. pliers - to pull out cotter pin.
 
  #2  
Old 01-26-2012, 06:42 PM
Join Date: Oct 2011
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How difficult is it to remove the large bolts that go through the bushings? They look like they've got alot of torque on them, and it looks like it would be real easy to strip out the part for the torx bit.

When I replaced the front axle. I noticed the bushing in the control arm closest to the front was torn. I guess because you have to push down on the control arm to get the ball joint out of the piece that holds the hub.
 
  #3  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:06 PM
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Sounds like it was an easy job you should type up a how to.
 
  #4  
Old 01-28-2012, 09:52 AM
monte67's Avatar
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Jason, The bolts were not to bad to break loose, but the torx is a pain. I had to be so careful when breaking it loose. I had to push hard on the ratchet and socket going into the torx to make sure it didn't strip out while I was backing the bolt out. I wish GM used a hex head bolt the same as the one for the horizontal mounting. Once both control arm mounting bolts and sway bar end link are unbolted and dont forget the sensor line going to the wheel bearing. That part of the job is done. Just take the coter pin out of ball joint shaft and take the nut off. Then pry the control arm out of the mounting points to the sub-frame. Then slid the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. I had to use a pickle fork to separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. The part is out!!
 
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