good write up! do u know y noone makes the centrifugal supercharger anymore? i believe thats what u mean by csc...

 

My only guess is because the turbo kits were on the verge of launching- and for the same price (or less)- you could make more power. Oddly enough, very few people bought them- but thats back when the mentality was that the M90 was the best power adder for these engines.

lmao, imagine that- Intense is behind on updating ZZP's new record. [8D]

On a side note that car is f'in amazing.

 

CONGRATS to Zoomer and the guys at ZZPerformance for getting the record back! 900+hp 3.8L (1,000hp?), 8.65 and 159mph in the 1/4.
Tell'n ya, turbo's are where it's at! Turbo Tim at ZZperformance has tried to convince me EVERY time I stop in there to ADD a turbo to the Intimidator SS!
I've seen that 8 second GP. It's full race!
I think I'll get hold of Tim there and ask what hp that GP is running.

 

Last I saw their dyno threads on clubgp, the #s weren't that impressive- it was like low 600s I think? That may have been with the old turbos though.

I was kinda wondering what the car weighs now.

 

I didn't ask about weight or ponds of boost, but I DID call and ask how much HP it was dynoing, cuz they have their own dyno. Keegan (ExplosiveSoundz) had his Intimidator pull a 336 there last May. Pretty darned good! This GP pulled 750hp at the wheels! That translates to about 1,100hp! For a 3.8L! Gotta love them turbos! I'm guessing they are up to about 26 lbs of boost. If I remember right, they were at 22 lbs last spring. We run 26 lbs of boost in the Solstice GXP 2.0L turbo. Seems to be a good number

 

I remember someone posted on clubgp when the Intense car was closing in on that number that one of the leadengineers of the 3800 said the limit of the stock crank was 1k hp- guess this proves that wrong.


I just hope I get to see this one in person before it gets retired.

 

Related - I've been trying to repost my Guide to 400 HP as when you do a search and read it only a small portion comes up. After doing some research on the "You don't have permission to access /postpro.asp on this server" error I was getting it seems our post lengths have been shorted a bit since the last time I posted it.

I'm going to break it up a bit and repost it hear in a few chunks.

 

Introduction - I submitted this awhile ago and bumpin96monte actually helped me on it last on: Oct 27, 2006. So it is going to have to get updated as we've learned some things since then, but it still makes a good guide for the L67.

I sent Zoomer at ZZPerformance an email back on March 26, 2006 asking him his idea of how to upgrade a Monte. I just recently found it again and wanted to post this to help newbies out. His email will be supplied in full, albeit broken up to supply my thoughts, and italicized to preserve his quotes and this should supply you with the best and safest method of upgrading. Also to save money on buying stuff you don't need, once you read this list, make a plan of where you want to go with your car. Once you have the plan, reread this list, think about it again and proceed from there.

*********GET A SCAN TOOL OR FIND SOMEONE WHO HAS ONE!!!!! *********It doesn't matter which one, but this can't be stressed enough but before you do anything, get a scanner. Any pulley swapping you do can cause Knock Retard (KRor just knock) and you can damage your engine. Try to target 0 knock and you don't have to worry. You don't need to go gung-ho and get a DHP $400 scanner, a simple Palm LS1M for $150 or similar is fine. Making sure you don't blow up your engine is the name of the game here. Some people will say you can skip the scanner for now, but remember some cars are assembled at Friday around 5 PM while others are on Wednesday around 2. Since you don't know, play it safe and Be Prepared. Also always run 93+ octane gas.

The first and cheapest upgrade is the 3.5" pulley from ZZP, SLP, or a host of others. It costs between $50-$75 depending on quality, etc and will give your car about 20 HP increase. Bang for Buck this is the best upgrade to start with. If you don't have the scanner, go back and get that first then get this pulley, though only a small portion of people have had problems with their engines (like 2%) you don't want to be in this percentage and have a blown engine. If you plan to really mod your car, jump up and get a Modular Pulley System (MPS) to save tons of money and time as you do pulley upgrades and swaps in the future.

UPDATE! Bumpin96monte has informed me of cars with the stock 3.8" pulley reporting KR. Looking back I rememer reading this somewhere as well. Going to a 3.5" will only amplify the problem so this reinforces the necessity for the Scan Tool. I would recommend getting a Cold Air Intake or Fender Well Intake and doing the U-Bend delete prior to doing the pulley drop. You can read more about that below.

 

Stage 1 Part 1

Level 1 performance stuff is a 3.4" pulley with smaller belt, colder plugs, colder Tstat, Wizair box, PCM and Ubend delete in the exhaust. This will drop you to about 14.0 in the 1/4 depending on traction (13.8-14.3). It will bring you from 240HP to ~285HP and make a large seat of the pants difference. No transmission upgrades are needed, reliability and gas mileage are not affected. To maximize the level 1 stuff, you can add a stage 1 throttle body, water pump underdrive pulley, and throttle body spacer. This would add another 10HP or so and give more consistent performance. The stage 1 throttle body improves throttle response so the 'feel' of the car is changed. If you get all the small stuff above you can run a 3.3" pulley with an aftermarket downpipe (the most cost effective way of doing this).

I think most people will agree with the above. I personally don't have a ton of cash on hand at any given time so I order pieces separately and upgrade slowly. For noticeable and safe changes, I recommend the following order:

Stage 1

Cold Air Intake (CAI) or Fender Well Intake (FWI) - actually the 2000+ Monte's have good airboxes and you could just use a K&N drop in filter, but I figure just get it out of the way. I like my Wizaired CAI from ZZP, but there are a bunch of other CAI's to consider from: SLP, K&N Air Charger, Thrasher, Motorsports Performance, etc; FWI include Speedbuilt, Intense's, JMB Performance, or the standard homemade kit which seems to be more popular.

U-Bend Delete - Either buy one online to weld in, have a muffler shop put a custom one in, or buy a kit right away with a High Flow Catalytic Converter / straitpipe and 3" downpipe.

3.4" pulley WITH Autolite 104 plugs (or similar) and 180* T-stat. You will want all three at once and it won't cost that much... about $100. Always have the supporting mods in place before doing a pulley drop and Scan, Scan, Scan.

PCM - doesn't matter which brand as this is different for everyone's car but it SHOULD help avoid KR and make driving a little more enjoyable. If you purchase some form of programmer you will not need to buy the PCM. Just make sure it gets tuned right.

 

Stage 1 Part 2

Larger ThrottleBody (TB) and spacer - Here's a discussion in itself; which way to go: 72-75mm TB or North Star Conversion. Pick your religion. I recommend study each one, check forums, listen to others experiences and talk to people who have the setup you are looking for. They will tell you their pros and cons. In reality it's not going to matter at this point but maybe later when you hit the 350+ HP it will make a difference. All you want to do to hit the next few upgrades is just have a larger TB than stock. The supercharger gets much warmer at these pulleys, the TB spacer will help keep the TB cooler, which will provide cooler air and remove some KR. You can tune and squeeze a few (like 1-5) more HP with this.

3.3" Pulley - You actually should be safe to run this now, but check your scanner. At this point and from now on I don't care what mods you do you should have your own scanner. Even with the above mods there is a chance you can't run this pulley and scanning becomes much more critical at this point.

Right about here is where you want to do the resonator delete and full cat-back exhaust with Hi Flow mufflers. The mufflers on the 2000+ Monte's are simply great you might even be able to get away with one of the Stage 2 options below before the mufflers, but most people like the sound by now and it would be a good time for this investment. If I can find the exhaust data I researched, I'll edit this area at a future date so you will know what kind of Cubic Feet per Minute flow is involved here.

The water pump and underdive pulleys are your preference. There has been a lot of talk where people don't see a change, a small positive change and in some cases a small negative change plus a lighter wallet. I think once you get past this next section it would be smarter to put them on there.