I have an 05 s/c ss with k and n cai, 180* t stat, flowmaster exhaust. What other supporting mods do I need? Im thinking about the zex dry 75 shot.

 

05montess, please let me start by STRONGLY suggesting you do not invest in a dry nitrous setups.

It is my opinion that only companies who perform NO real life testing of a nitrous system sell dry kits. Plain and simple they are not safe.

Yes....there are plenty of people out there who are going to swear up and down that they have never had a problem, but for the novice tuner, there are far more people who have walked away with a shopping cart full of broken engine internals.

Now that I got that out of the way....let me answer your question.

As far as supporting modifications, for a shot as small as a 75, you shouldn't need much as you are on the right track.

Nitrous essentially performs the same function as a supercharger or turbo, but it does it chemically as opposed to mechanically. So in essence, any modification that allows your motor to breath better will assist in overall nitrous performance. I would recommend your next modifications be a set of headers and a good fuel pump to keep up.

Another thing to keep in mind is that a 75hp shot on your l67 motor is going to perform much more like a 100hp shot on an n/a engine. Reason being, since you are extremely cooling the intake charge when the nitrous is injected, the overall performance of your supercharger is increased as well. Cooler air charge = less detonation and in some cases more boost.

I run a small nitrous company in ma. Everything from direct port foggers to single stage plates. If you need any help, just let me know.

Also you may want to take a look at the thread I had recently posted on my "old" setup when I was first getting into spray on my supercharged 04.

https://montecarloforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=23375

good luck.

 

Thanks for the info, What wet nitrous kit would you recommend ?

 

Mine of course lol.

All joking aside, almost all the big name companies in the US have there solenoids manufactured by the same company. So basically, any good reputable names universal 6cyl wet kit should do just fine. I would recommend Nitrous Supply or NX

 

lol I got it thanks bro

 

I'm of the complete opposite opinion as bfurches. After seeing quite a few cars catch on fire or explode (literally explode- I don't mean a failed engine, I mean a boom followed by flames) at the track from wet nitrous kits, I'd never run one on any of my cars. I'll risk a piston or headgasket over an engine fire anyday. I'm also not too kean on spraying your blower rotors with gasoline, as I've heard of them delaminating.

Wet kits were great on carbureted stuff and they still are- but flowing fuel through intake manifolds never designed to flow liquid is just a terrible idea.

I used a Zex dry kit on my last 5.0L Mustang for 4 years and close to a hundred passes at the track with no issues. I'm now using a Compucar dry kit on my Monte Carlo with no issues either. Major gains from both.

In the old days, "dry kits" meant that no extra fuel was added while spraying, while "wet kits" delivered increased fuel. This isn't really true anymore. Most modern "dry" kits DO introduce added fuel- they just use the fuel injectors to do it, instead of spraying fuel into the intake tubing or manifold with a separate nozzle. I much prefer this method. My current setup injects the nitrous at the beginning of the intake track on my FWI. My LQ4 MAF reads the nitrous and increases injector pulse width to add enough fuel to maintain my commanded AFR. It works well.

To answer the original question regarding what supporting mods needed to run a 75 shot, I'd recommend:
- Spark plugs at least 1 range colder than stock, gapped a bit tighter than stock (Autolite #104s would work great, grapped at .050ish)
- Exhaust work- at least a 3" downpipe, preferably a front ported exhaust manifold or PLOG (or headers). Cylinder pressure goes WAY up on nitrous, and you'll need to be able to exhaust all that pressure before something goes boom.
- A scan gauge that lets you monitor Knock Retard (KR) and retard ignition timing- if you start knocking on nitrous, things blow up really fast. If you see KR, stop spraying. You'll also want to take about 2* of timing out of it when you're spraying.

I'd make sure your car is in a very good state of mechanical tune first, too. Great time for a full tune up, including (most importantly) a new fuel filter. You don't want to go lean on the spray- things break real fast when you're lean on spray.

That 75 shot will hit like a freight train- a little nitrous goes a long way when combined with a roots blower. Enjoy!

 

BTW, here's the last fire I saw from a wet kit- this was last fall at a local track day. Trans Am was using a wet kit...fuel solenoid stuck after his pass, filled the intake with fuel, and it blew on the return road:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIcRX...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sua3wDeBaUw

 

if it's me i do full size intercooler before spraying. at least if you go intercooler you don't have to worry about fire or melting pistons. i don't know much on the nitrous but i know 75 shots might be on the safe side but will not gain a whole lot if that's what you after.

 

03SS/00GSE/93LX ...let me clear up some stuff for you.

First off, any fire resulting from a wet kit install is a BAD install. There is not one component in a nitrous system if installed properly that should EVER fail and cause a fire. Even if a fuel solenoid were to fail and stay open, the worst that wood happen is flood the engine and it would stall or not start. The only possible way to induces flames as a result of a nitrous installation would be in regards to splicing the fuel supply incorrectly. I have run every daily driver for the past 4 years (carbed, fuel injected, turbo, and supercharged), all with wet systems, and I have never come CLOSE to having a fire (or any catastrophic failure). Thats not to mention customers I have in New England that have also NEVER reported a fire.

Second, the classic "intake" debate has become pretty irrelevant. Nitrous systems are only used at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. Your engine is a giant air compressor. If your introucing nitrous/ fuel to the air stream in a mist at WOT, there is little to no chance of fuel to puddle in the intake like so many seem to claim.

Third, fuel does not strip the coating off of a roots blower (if that were the case, then all 671-871 or 144 blowers with carbs mounted on top would need to be rebuilt once a week). The old "wives tale" is that the sulfur additive in industrial/ automotive grade nitrous oxide is the culprit (but also not the case and not proven). I have run a few roots blower cars through numerous bottles of spray, and upon dissasembly of intakes for upgrades, no noticeable wear has been encountered. Inustrial grade nitrous oxide has a sulfur additive so that it can not be misused by junkies. The only way to obtain medical grade nitrous is through a controlled substance license.

Last...as for dry systems, even Old school system introduced supplemental fuel (either by increasing fuel pressure/ adding injectors). You could never just dump 75hp worth of spray down your engines throat and expect it to hold together.

My problem with dry systems is that you are relying on FACTORY injectors to provide supplemental fuel. Enough so, that it can support 75 additional horsepower. So lets say you are running your current motor at 75% injector duty cycle @ WOT. Now you introduce nitrous, and you expect your factory injectors to supply enough fuel to SAFELY cover the extra 75hp? If your 200hp car is at 75% duty cycle already, you would need to reach well over 95% duty (out of the injector range) to cover your fuel. Not to mention a dry system is not synchronized with the nitrous solenoid as accuratley as ANOTHER solenoid on the same circuit.

Plain and simple, in my opinion, its NOT safe, practical or cost effective.

However, the suggested modifications listed are also a good idea. Spark plugs are huge and you will need to run a tighter gap.

Hope im not comming off as an ***, just trying to clear up some of the myths.

 

I disagree. You will gain a TON on a 75 shot. You're getting the dual benefit of making your blower more efficient by cooling the outlet charge, and the chemical benefit of the nitrous breaking down in your cylinders.

Roots blower cars typically see BIGGER gains than their advertised shot size due to this. Most guys with bolt-on L67s trap near 110 on spray.

Absolutely not true. I've personally seen wet kits installed properly cause cars to blow.

Proper installation has nothing to do with a solenoid that sticks open- and yes, a stuck open fuel solenoid CAN cause the intake to go up in flames. I've seen it happen- and even posted a video showing it.

...unless the fuel solenoid sticks open....at which point your intake manifold turns into a bomb filled with gasoline. It doesn't take much to blow it at this point- a backfire, gas drip touching a hot spot...and boom.

Most old school dry kits required richer carb jetting, which is why they sucked.

Why? My dry kit isn't relying on factory injectors.

What if your duty cycles aren't 75%? This is a very general statement.

This is why you scan injector duty cycles along with wideband AFR and KR. I'm at 85% duty cycle with a rock solid 11.1 AFR when I spray.

If you run out of injector- upgrade. I got my #42.5s for $180 and I've got plenty of overhead now.

Disagree. Injecting wet post-MAF means you're depending on the nitrous system (and it's solenoids, which are known to fail) to provide your extra fueling. Injecting dry pre-MAF like I do means that my PCM knows exactly how much extra air is coming in and allows it to compensate fueling accordingly. Combined with a tuning package like HP Tuners, it's a cleaner, safer, more effective solution than throwing gasoline through my blower and LIM.

If your fuel solenoid fails to open, you're motor is toast. If your fuel solenoid sticks open, your entire car may be toast. In my case, if my MAF fails, my defaults to VE table for fueling and low octane spark table for spark. I lose a bunch of power, but nothing breaks.

Disagree completely for the reasons stated above.

Not at all, debate is healthy and good and I'm always happy to see performance oriented talk in this forum.