4th Gen ('81-'88): Is this true??
I was doing some reading and came across this information " A mild, near stock 350 Chevy will redline around 5500 rpm, with the most power being at around 4500 rpm." Is this true??
I am currently running a 350 SBC in my 84 with a TH350 with B&M Shift kit. I shift manually with a B & M Z-Gate shifter. I was told the 350 sbc came out of a 1978 or 79 Camaro(can't find the #'s on the engine to know for sure). Stock cam from what I was told but I do not know that for sure as I have not dug into it to find out. Running long headers with full exhaust until I fix that in a few weeks to cut outs and glass packs with turn outs. Stock cast intake but changing to aluminum dual plane intake. 600 cfm 4bbl edelbrock carb manual choke and manual secondaries. HEI distributor. Stock rear end gears. Not sure what other information I can give or need to give.
By the end of the season I was shifting at 5200 RPM consistently from 1st to 2nd. I go to nearly the 1/8 mile before I shift from 1st to 2nd and then as I cross the 1/4 mile I am once again at 5200 RPM so I slap it into 3rd and begin slowing. While racing, if I slap it into 3rd, it just turns into a big blue turd and it has no pull like it does in 1st and 2nd.
If I am shifting at 5200 RPM, I am pretty darn close to redline if the above information is true.
Is my shift point too high?

I am currently running a 350 SBC in my 84 with a TH350 with B&M Shift kit. I shift manually with a B & M Z-Gate shifter. I was told the 350 sbc came out of a 1978 or 79 Camaro(can't find the #'s on the engine to know for sure). Stock cam from what I was told but I do not know that for sure as I have not dug into it to find out. Running long headers with full exhaust until I fix that in a few weeks to cut outs and glass packs with turn outs. Stock cast intake but changing to aluminum dual plane intake. 600 cfm 4bbl edelbrock carb manual choke and manual secondaries. HEI distributor. Stock rear end gears. Not sure what other information I can give or need to give.
By the end of the season I was shifting at 5200 RPM consistently from 1st to 2nd. I go to nearly the 1/8 mile before I shift from 1st to 2nd and then as I cross the 1/4 mile I am once again at 5200 RPM so I slap it into 3rd and begin slowing. While racing, if I slap it into 3rd, it just turns into a big blue turd and it has no pull like it does in 1st and 2nd.
If I am shifting at 5200 RPM, I am pretty darn close to redline if the above information is true.
Is my shift point too high?
Barbara..
GM uses RPO codes, or Regular Production Option, to identify its engines; Chevy 350 engine codes are stamped near the cylinder head on the passenger side, where the alternator may hide it. The majority of engine codes begin with the letter L -- (L31, for instance).
This info/Numbers should tell you all you need to know about your motor via GM or a dealer.
Or
This link should help explain just what your motor is.. (factory stock) once you get the numbers off of it.
http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/ind...data?showall=1 <------ Clicky
Hope this helps.
GM uses RPO codes, or Regular Production Option, to identify its engines; Chevy 350 engine codes are stamped near the cylinder head on the passenger side, where the alternator may hide it. The majority of engine codes begin with the letter L -- (L31, for instance).
This info/Numbers should tell you all you need to know about your motor via GM or a dealer.
Or
This link should help explain just what your motor is.. (factory stock) once you get the numbers off of it.
http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/ind...data?showall=1 <------ Clicky
Hope this helps.
Last edited by STUMPMI; Feb 6, 2015 at 09:30 PM. Reason: addition.
Thanks David!!
It's going to be warmer tomorrow so I will be working on the 84. I will see if I can find any numbers. I tried finding them when I was swapping out the tranny last year but didn't find any.
It's going to be warmer tomorrow so I will be working on the 84. I will see if I can find any numbers. I tried finding them when I was swapping out the tranny last year but didn't find any.
Happy to help Barbara...
At least now...
You know where to find them and have a source/link to see what it is.
Keep us/me posted..I'd be curious to know as well..
By the way...
Thanks for all the Great info/help you have provided to the members in need.
Nice to have a gal that either knows her stuff and /or knows where to look it up/ supply links of help!
Your definitely an asset to the forum/membership.
At least now...
You know where to find them and have a source/link to see what it is.
Keep us/me posted..I'd be curious to know as well..

By the way...
Thanks for all the Great info/help you have provided to the members in need.
Nice to have a gal that either knows her stuff and /or knows where to look it up/ supply links of help!
Your definitely an asset to the forum/membership.
Last edited by STUMPMI; Feb 7, 2015 at 11:48 AM.
Thank you David
I will keep you updated on the engine. I will climb into the engine compartment first thing in the morning and start looking. That's what I really like about the older cars..I can climb into the engine compartment and have room to even get my feet on the ground and not all kinds of computerized this and that!! 
I try to help out on the forum when I can. I am more apt to go find a link that may help as most of my mechanical knowledge is trial and error. MANY, MANY errors!!! LOL I read a lot too.
I just don't want to give someone the wrong information and have it cause trouble for their cars!
Thank you! I am so glad I am part of the MCF!! I have felt at home since day one and no one here has ever made me feel like I was stupid because of my questions or maybe not so correct answers.
I will keep you updated on the engine. I will climb into the engine compartment first thing in the morning and start looking. That's what I really like about the older cars..I can climb into the engine compartment and have room to even get my feet on the ground and not all kinds of computerized this and that!! 
I try to help out on the forum when I can. I am more apt to go find a link that may help as most of my mechanical knowledge is trial and error. MANY, MANY errors!!! LOL I read a lot too.
I just don't want to give someone the wrong information and have it cause trouble for their cars!
Thank you! I am so glad I am part of the MCF!! I have felt at home since day one and no one here has ever made me feel like I was stupid because of my questions or maybe not so correct answers.
Ok...Please disregard the filth. I was unable to find the numbers I was looking for
Alternator or valve cover must be covering it.
I DID find the casting clock on rear drivers side of block but that really tells me nothing I want to know. Letters H and T and the number 3 plus the clock.
ARGHHHH frustrated so I moved on to something else. Once I start taking stuff off of it to change out the water pump drive and removing the clutch fan, intake, and all that, I may find it.
Alternator or valve cover must be covering it.I DID find the casting clock on rear drivers side of block but that really tells me nothing I want to know. Letters H and T and the number 3 plus the clock.
ARGHHHH frustrated so I moved on to something else. Once I start taking stuff off of it to change out the water pump drive and removing the clutch fan, intake, and all that, I may find it.
OK..so I go back out to the car because I am ticked that I cannot find what I want to find. Pop the hood back open and start feeling around for numbers...LOL Back of the block, drivers side, near where I found the casting clock I found the following raised stamp
21 GM(not shown in pic) then next to it 3970010

NUMBER Engine Years Main
3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4 so I still do not know much more than I did before..LOL But have not found anything out yet about the 21GM
21 GM(not shown in pic) then next to it 3970010

NUMBER Engine Years Main
3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4 so I still do not know much more than I did before..LOL But have not found anything out yet about the 21GM








