Starts but Stalls when warm????? :-(
#21
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Hi guys! Here is a more detail discription of what my SS is doing now;
Start fine, with remote or key, in the morning. But starts and stalls right away when its warm, like when I go to walmart for a couple of things. Gotta hold the gas peddle for about a minute then she runs. When driving, at any speed, she surges about 100 to 200 rpms, cold or n.o.t.. Also, the remote will no longer open the trunk or lock/unlock the doors. But it will start the car. Occasionally, the Security light will come on, not often when cold or if I get it started the first time when warm. But if I have the try to start it more than once the security light comes on. I did the relearn yesterday but that had no effect.
So now I'm trying to figure out what is different when the engine is at normal operating temperature? I pulling the fuel pump relay the other day when doing the fuel filter. The engine died the same way it does when I'm done at walmart, (engine warm). That's why I thought it might be the passkey system. Other than the slight surge and stalling on start-up it runs very well. I am Mix-Fused over this. Maybe the PVC valve? Bad CAT? Fuel Pump? I'm lost on this one.
To complicate things, my finances are low cause I lost my job 3 weeks ago. So I can't just replace stuff and see if it fixes it. And the dealership, or even my favoite Pepboys is out of my budget. I can drive the car and have, but now it's more important that it runs good and doesn't brake down when I'm in route to an interview. Is there anyone how can steer me in the right direction? :-(
Start fine, with remote or key, in the morning. But starts and stalls right away when its warm, like when I go to walmart for a couple of things. Gotta hold the gas peddle for about a minute then she runs. When driving, at any speed, she surges about 100 to 200 rpms, cold or n.o.t.. Also, the remote will no longer open the trunk or lock/unlock the doors. But it will start the car. Occasionally, the Security light will come on, not often when cold or if I get it started the first time when warm. But if I have the try to start it more than once the security light comes on. I did the relearn yesterday but that had no effect.
So now I'm trying to figure out what is different when the engine is at normal operating temperature? I pulling the fuel pump relay the other day when doing the fuel filter. The engine died the same way it does when I'm done at walmart, (engine warm). That's why I thought it might be the passkey system. Other than the slight surge and stalling on start-up it runs very well. I am Mix-Fused over this. Maybe the PVC valve? Bad CAT? Fuel Pump? I'm lost on this one.
To complicate things, my finances are low cause I lost my job 3 weeks ago. So I can't just replace stuff and see if it fixes it. And the dealership, or even my favoite Pepboys is out of my budget. I can drive the car and have, but now it's more important that it runs good and doesn't brake down when I'm in route to an interview. Is there anyone how can steer me in the right direction? :-(
#22
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did you check you ignition control module? just under the 3 ignition coils, i had similar issues and after a smart mechanic figured it out i had changed fuel filter, maf,iac sensor, throttle body..it started clipping and shutting off after it got hot
#23
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THANKS NYGIANTSFAN. The ignition module was changed last summer. I got nothing when I turned the key. The lights and stuff worked but the engine wouldn't crank. Just had my CAT replaced this week. Put a Magnaflo unit in. This w/e I'm putting in a new cranksbaft sensor, got a code for it. Plus right side hub assembly, lower rediator hose and fuel filter.
This problem just doesn't make sence. I figured it was the CAT that was causing it. It starts easier when hot now, but I still have to hold the gas till it's idle smooths out. And it also has a bit of a shutter. We will see. Maybe jt is the crankshaft sensor causing this. Idk. Gotta change it anyway so I'm just gonna Geterdone and go from there. Hopefully I can have it ready to attend some of the Cruise Night events this summer! I hope, I hope! 8-)
This problem just doesn't make sence. I figured it was the CAT that was causing it. It starts easier when hot now, but I still have to hold the gas till it's idle smooths out. And it also has a bit of a shutter. We will see. Maybe jt is the crankshaft sensor causing this. Idk. Gotta change it anyway so I'm just gonna Geterdone and go from there. Hopefully I can have it ready to attend some of the Cruise Night events this summer! I hope, I hope! 8-)
#25
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well good luck man i have been going thru similar problems that no one can figure out as well lol i cant get it to start normally...keep in mind anything electrical stick with gm part always, anytime i bought any other version of the parts it always malfunctioned quickly or it fixed the problem and created a different one lol and deff try the cold start trick like what nikehawkjcb mentioned..good luck
#26
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Thanks guys, I will try the MAS trick. I still have the old one. I don't think anything was wrong with it, cause the computer muffed up at the time. Unfortunately the rain doesn't make it easy to work on a car in the street. :-( Lol and there's rain in the forcast all week. But I'll get it done! ;-)
#27
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Hi guys, so the fuel filter and the Cat replaced last week. And I put the hub assembly in after letter it sit in the house for a year. Got a lot more power back but it still stalled when starting warm. Yesterday I swapped MAS, still had the old one. I kept it cause the PCM was giving bad codes and it tested good.
Yesterday I put the old one in and was la, she now starts strong, cold or warm! :-D Today it's the lower radiator hose and the
Crank Position Sensor.
Question: after replacing the crank sensor is there a Re-learn that has to be done, and if so does anyone know it? It's the last code in my PCM. Gotta rely heavily on YelloJac to get to the new job cause there is no Mass Transit from Garfield NJ to Chestnut Ridge NY!
Yesterday I put the old one in and was la, she now starts strong, cold or warm! :-D Today it's the lower radiator hose and the
Crank Position Sensor.
Question: after replacing the crank sensor is there a Re-learn that has to be done, and if so does anyone know it? It's the last code in my PCM. Gotta rely heavily on YelloJac to get to the new job cause there is no Mass Transit from Garfield NJ to Chestnut Ridge NY!
#29
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I had the same problem. Check the lower fuel injector seals. I was reading p0171 codes behind torn seals on cylinders 5 and 6. Check also you vacuum hoses to the throttle body. They tend to dry out after being over the thermostat for years. Felpro Seals are 5 bucks at Auto zone. Good luck on the interview
Last edited by TPStatic; 12-15-2013 at 05:19 PM.
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