I finally got the time to start replacement of the timing belt (and other "while I'm in there" parts) on my '95 MC 3.4L. I started late tonight by checking the radio to see if it had a security code, it doesn't. That's one less problem down the road. I disconnected the negative at the battery for safety, then removed both front and rear top timing belt covers. I found a lot of belt dust buildup and the pulleys are shiny across the whole grooves indicating the belt is/was traveling back and forth. From what I could see, there are no belt teeth missing, but it does appear to be the original, which is way overdue for replacement. Next is the power steering pump, then......
jogasz28

 

We got a little more work done tonight.
We removed the coolant reservoir, harness clamps, power steering pulley, power steering fluid from pump, then PS pump, then the front timing belt cover. The whole cavity was FULL of belt shavings. We vacuumed them and only found one pulley with the original factory yellow marking. We looked but did not find any dampener or front engine cover timing marks.
Use this link to see a couple of pics:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/jogasz28...60762355348404
Does anyone have any pics or a good description of these timing marks?
Can anyone tell me how to get the engine to TDC of #1, and #4 cylinders?
TIA,
jogasz28

 

No responses?
Can someone PLEASE send me a pic of their (hopefully '95 MC) 3.4 timing marks on their dampener and engine cover?
TIA<
jogasz28

 

http://60degreev6.com/forumdisplay.php?f=72 this site has a lot of good info for the job. if you dont find what you need... post up again or PM me and i'll digg up some pics for you.

 

We found the dampener timing mark at TDC by rotating the engine 'til the front cam flats lined up with the clamping tool. The "mark" is a notch towards the rear of the dampener, not what I'm used to on older chevy engines.
We still have to pull the plenum and rear cam cover. Does the rear cam flats also point upward like the front at TDC?
jogasz28

 

Great find, David!!

 

We've got the old timing belt off and the new one on, but the front cam sprockets are one tooth off between the two. That means when one sprocket has the belt seated, the other sprocket teeth are on top of the timing belt teeth.
I think I had read you could wind up a half tooth off, but I cannot remember what was suggested to do to fix it.
One other thing. Are the cam sprocket bolts right hand threads? We were unable to get the front loose using both an impact gun and a breaker bar.
As always, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
jogasz28

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: jogasz28

Thanks for the link to this site. I've started a thread there on my timing belt replacement project. I've received lots of good info and am actually starting to understand the procedure (scary!). Check this link to the thread:
http://60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=35050
We've removed the intake, found a broken upper intake gasket, and will start putting things back together soon.
I bought the timing kit because I couldn't get the front cam sprockets loose. I have an extra set of cam hold downs if anyone is interested.
jogasz28

 

The timing belt/oil pump drive O-ring job is complete and the car is running great. Thanks to all here who helped.
jogasz28

 

ao how long did it take to complete the whole job and greeat work glad that you got it going again.