If you're racing to 4th gear you'd be going like 100 mph + by the time you get to it. I'm not to familiar with transaxles.. I know a little about standard RWD stuff..... heck most of the stuff I've worked on in my day (although I'm only 20) was vacuum shift, not even electronic!! I guess this stuff could just unbolt and bolt back in? I'd make sure I had a good torque wrench if that is the case, don't just tighten this stuff down by hand and be making guesses!!!

I'd take the opportunity to do a transmission flush. Probably atleast 10 quarts of fluid in this thing. I don't know what the type is.

"You're on your own!!" (or wait for bumpin or somebody like that who actually knows this particular car)

 

lol...she shifts into third about 82....then, since it is factory pcm, cruises to 118.

 

Is this what you're talking about

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...=570&catid=105

If so, they offer excellent customer service and should be able to provide any assistance needed for this job. I also hope you bought a new pan gasket to go with it. If not, you need to run to the parts store and atleast get a tube of this gasket sealer in I think a blue tube, and put a steady bead of that all the way around the bottom of the transmission before bolting back up. ZZP recommends switching to Dexron 6 while you've got the fluid drained. May be a good idea. If it involves unbolting anything, I'd try to find somebody who has the book (like run to the GM place) and get the torque specifications. Don't just run that stuff down with an impact!!

 

The shift kit will install really easily. You can do it yourself. If you're even slightly mechanically inclined.

Dex VI is great stuff- you might as well use it since you're dropping the pan. You'll need 7 quarts.

Unless it's damaged (which is doubtful) re-use your factory gasket. It's a solid, durable piece and is much better than the replacement junk you'll get.

 

For the C6 on my Fard, a '68 model (which holds 13 quarts), you have to put in about 5-6 quarts first and then start teh engine to put in the rest... does he need to do that as well?

 

Since he's only dropping the pan, he'll only need 7 quarts. As this is all that will come out. A full flush is beyond the scope of what he's doing here (and unnecessary).

C6 huh? Behind a big block...it's 1968...390 or 428? Sounds like fun.

 

390 It's all original, nothing too fancy... Edelbrock 4 barrel is about all (originally a 2 barrel engine though). .030 over pistons, crank was turned .010 over. Transmission overhauled. Nothing too fancy, just a gas drinker.

 

Its not something you're going to get dyno improvements on- you're dead on with your explanation though, once the engine torques under WOT- that slight movement sucks up some power going WOT and between shifts, but once it is twisted as far as it will go, you should make the same power to the ground. Even then, I'd bet the actual power loss getting on the power with stock mounts is nearly immeasureable.

However, it would make the engine feel like it responds a pinch quicker since it doesn't need to rotate first, and it should make the car a little more stable without the engine flopping around so much at the shifts and such. But really its more just for driver feel than anything- any other improvements are pretty minor. I've got poly sqaures and rounds on my monte, and the whole car shakes pretty nicely at idle with the cam lope- it vibrates all the mirrors and such, I'd definitely say it enhances the experience a bit. However, I picked mine up NIB off clubgp from someone who decided to demod before they put them in, I dunno if I could justify that much money for so little improvment.

Actually, these shift kits are quite easy to do- all you do is drop the pan, then you drop the accumulator cover that is under (actually above)- the pan, and these little valve/spring sets drop out. The only real thing the shift kits consist of are little sleeve -spacers that you slide over the valve stems and some include replacement springs that you just swap out. Then you just bolt the cover back on, put the pan back on, and refill the fluid.

The length of the spacers determines the stiffness of the shift kit- and you can actually make for some pretty rough shifts using the longest spacers.

Thats what I did on my monte; I got the free shift kit from WBS a long time ago with another order- and just stuck it in- came with a new filter and gasket- and I took one look at that gasket and my OEM one, and figured I was better off with the OEM gasket even though it had like 70k or so on it already.

 

You might want to consider install a pan drain plug while you have the pan off.Sure would help in the future tranny fluid changes.

 

GREAT advice. I always mean to do this and never do, then curse when I have to drop the pan.