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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 01:30 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by trewyn15
hmmm, i'm just over 83k I think, I think I'll seafoam first to try and clean out as much as possible, then do it, then seafoam again haha
If it doesn't look like mine you got a good start! Thats def. not what i wanted to see first time ever seeing my internals LOL
 
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 01:33 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by NewFish97MCLS
If it doesn't look like mine you got a good start! Thats def. not what i wanted to see first time ever seeing my internals LOL
Haha, how did you go about cleaning it out? I would like to dig into my heads but I don't want to order more gaskets and everything
 
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 01:38 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by trewyn15
Haha, how did you go about cleaning it out? I would like to dig into my heads but I don't want to order more gaskets and everything
Honestly haven't yet, I'm gonna clean the big parts tmrw morning, they're aluminum so im just gonna wash them, and I was told brake cleaner for the internal parts, its what I keep hearing so its what I'm gonna use. "Steel Worries = Rust, Aluminum Worries = Corrosion" is what I was told. So just wash out the gunk and I'll hand clean everything everything else. If anyone see's a red flag in that idea let me know? lol
 
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 01:41 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by NewFish97MCLS
Honestly haven't yet, I'm gonna clean the big parts tmrw morning, they're aluminum so im just gonna wash them, and I was told brake cleaner for the internal parts, its what I keep hearing so its what I'm gonna use. "Steel Worries = Rust, Aluminum Worries = Corrosion" is what I was told. So just wash out the gunk and I'll hand clean everything everything else. If anyone see's a red flag in that idea let me know? lol
I don't see an issue with that, I would just use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to be safe
 
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 01:42 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by trewyn15
I don't see an issue with that, I would just use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to be safe
Will definently keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip m8
 
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 03:14 AM
  #16  
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trewyn i just broke 140000 on mine and did mine last month but i would recommend seafoam and small piece of sand paper to sand to bar metal where old gaskets are DONT USE WIRE WHEEL YOULL PUT GROVES IN IT...make sure you change the oil before starting the engine afterwards too....clean everything really good and make sure you put push rods back in same exact hole to stop warpage and just use pea size dap of rtv in corners dont over due it the gasket is doing most of the work it is to just seal that corner peroid....it took me five days to play the guessing game on what to take off only difference is mine is 3.8...great job and good experience for ya....hope this helps ya..good luck and when your done dont be to alarmed if it smokes for 20 minutes to burn off all the anti freeze and cleaner you used and got on the motor
 

Last edited by MONTE2000SS; Mar 15, 2012 at 12:44 AM.
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 12:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MONTE2000SS
trewyn i just broke 140000 on mine and did mine last month but i would recommend seafoam and small piece of sand paper to sand to bar metal where old gaskets are DONT USE WIRE WHEEL YOULL PUT GROVES IN IT...make sure you change the oil before starting too....clean everything really good and make sure you put push rods back in same exact hole to stop warpage and just use pea size dap of rtv in corners dont over due it the gasket is doing most of the work it is to just seal that corner peroid....it took me five days to play the guessing game on what to take off only difference is mine is 3.8...great job and good experience for ya....hope this helps ya..good luck and when your done dont be to alarmed if it smokes for 20 minutes to burn off all the anti freeze and cleaner you used and got on the motor
I wouldn't use sand paper either, what a lot of people do and what i'll probably end up doing is using a razor blade very lightly and getting the gasket off, but i'll have all new manifolds, i'll just have to get the gasket material off the heads.

I'm doing it at a buddies shop with a full walkthrough and shop of parts lol so it should only take 4-5 hours to do everything that I want
 
Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #18  
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yeah im not comfortable with the word sandpaper and engine in the same sentence either, but i also know how ****ty i can be w/ a razor blade, maybe just spraying some brake cleaner on there and useing a decent clean rag will do the trick. I finally got back to work and hours aren't "schedualed" so i've been there to long to do anything the past half a week... which totally blows. I'll let you know how that works on the flakes of gasket i have left. So far they just peel off like the back of a sticker and break in half w/ little effort. >.> they definently werent sturdy enough to hold even a feather lol, so glad im replacing them w/ "metal" gaskets
 
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:17 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by NewFish97MCLS
yeah im not comfortable with the word sandpaper and engine in the same sentence either, but i also know how ****ty i can be w/ a razor blade, maybe just spraying some brake cleaner on there and useing a decent clean rag will do the trick. I finally got back to work and hours aren't "schedualed" so i've been there to long to do anything the past half a week... which totally blows. I'll let you know how that works on the flakes of gasket i have left. So far they just peel off like the back of a sticker and break in half w/ little effort. >.> they definently werent sturdy enough to hold even a feather lol, so glad im replacing them w/ "metal" gaskets
I think I currently have plastic gaskets for my manifolds, I will be getting metal here soon before I do the swap
 
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #20  
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My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard!!

LOL keep up the good work
 

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