NOT cool Pin Hole Coolant leak
#1
10-09-2011, 11:10 AM
NOT cool Pin Hole Coolant leak
This morning I can't find my camera but I can describe the area well where it is happening.
I have the series II on the passenger side by the serpentine belt, behind the plugs/distributor caps there is a fair sized tube that runs into the side of the engine. This tube has a pin hole in it, out of it coolant is spewing.
Is there something I could patch it with, opposed to replacing the entire piece?
I have the series II on the passenger side by the serpentine belt, behind the plugs/distributor caps there is a fair sized tube that runs into the side of the engine. This tube has a pin hole in it, out of it coolant is spewing.
Is there something I could patch it with, opposed to replacing the entire piece?
Last edited by iMSeRiOuS; 10-09-2011 at 01:39 PM.
#2
10-09-2011, 11:15 AM
I'm not sure about patching it, but replacing the whole thing would really be the best idea, especially for the long run, maybe someone else will have a temporary idea for patching it
#3
10-09-2011, 11:30 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
Sounds like you are talking about the infamous "coolant elbows". $5 for new ones, plus coolant, about 30 minutes to do for a first timer. Not worth patching, just replace them. You'll find the replacements on the DorMan HELP! racks at the parts store.
They are easy to do. I'm sure there is a right up here on it. In gist:
- disconnect battery
- remove belt
- remove alternator
- remove a couple more bolts that hold the tensioner bracket on (the bracket the alternator bolts to).
- Gently wiggle that bracket out.
- Remove elbows (some 3800s have two plastic elbows, some have 1 as the other elbow is cast aluminum as part of the alternator).
- Inspect where the elbows go into the intake, ensure not parts are still in there. If so, I have easily removed left overs by using a small flat head screw driver and push on one side (the left over hoop will spin about 90 degrees and now you can grabit with some needle nose pliers and pull it out).
- use a little lube on the new elbows, install and follow dis-assembly in reverse over to put back together.
They are easy to do. I'm sure there is a right up here on it. In gist:
- disconnect battery
- remove belt
- remove alternator
- remove a couple more bolts that hold the tensioner bracket on (the bracket the alternator bolts to).
- Gently wiggle that bracket out.
- Remove elbows (some 3800s have two plastic elbows, some have 1 as the other elbow is cast aluminum as part of the alternator).
- Inspect where the elbows go into the intake, ensure not parts are still in there. If so, I have easily removed left overs by using a small flat head screw driver and push on one side (the left over hoop will spin about 90 degrees and now you can grabit with some needle nose pliers and pull it out).
- use a little lube on the new elbows, install and follow dis-assembly in reverse over to put back together.
#4
10-09-2011, 01:15 PM
Sounds like you are talking about the infamous "coolant elbows". $5 for new ones, plus coolant, about 30 minutes to do for a first timer. Not worth patching, just replace them. You'll find the replacements on the DorMan HELP! racks at the parts store.
They are easy to do. I'm sure there is a right up here on it. In gist:
- disconnect battery
- remove belt
- remove alternator
- remove a couple more bolts that hold the tensioner bracket on (the bracket the alternator bolts to).
- Gently wiggle that bracket out.
- Remove elbows (some 3800s have two plastic elbows, some have 1 as the other elbow is cast aluminum as part of the alternator).
- Inspect where the elbows go into the intake, ensure not parts are still in there. If so, I have easily removed left overs by using a small flat head screw driver and push on one side (the left over hoop will spin about 90 degrees and now you can grabit with some needle nose pliers and pull it out).
- use a little lube on the new elbows, install and follow dis-assembly in reverse over to put back together.
They are easy to do. I'm sure there is a right up here on it. In gist:
- disconnect battery
- remove belt
- remove alternator
- remove a couple more bolts that hold the tensioner bracket on (the bracket the alternator bolts to).
- Gently wiggle that bracket out.
- Remove elbows (some 3800s have two plastic elbows, some have 1 as the other elbow is cast aluminum as part of the alternator).
- Inspect where the elbows go into the intake, ensure not parts are still in there. If so, I have easily removed left overs by using a small flat head screw driver and push on one side (the left over hoop will spin about 90 degrees and now you can grabit with some needle nose pliers and pull it out).
- use a little lube on the new elbows, install and follow dis-assembly in reverse over to put back together.
#6
10-09-2011, 01:38 PM
There is a hole in the metal elbow/tube.
_|+| _____________
_|+|___| ^^^^^^^|
___ ***| engine^^^|
___{&}|__________|
front of car
orange: Alternator
green: The elbow/tube
blue: Distributor caps/plugs
_|+| _____________
_|+|___| ^^^^^^^|
___ ***| engine^^^|
___{&}|__________|
front of car
orange: Alternator
green: The elbow/tube
blue: Distributor caps/plugs
#10
10-09-2011, 04:47 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
Some years of 3800 (such as the 97/98 Grand Prixs) had one plastic elbow, the second one was cast aluminum that was PART of the tensioner bracket. I don't know what year ranges did that design. I know my '04 Monte is the second design, two black plastic elbows.
I changed one that the aluminum one sheered off (97 Grand Prix). I got a new tensioner bracket from a junk yard for like $20. Other options are a new tensioner bracket from the parts store OR retro-fit your car to a newer setup using two plastic elbows....
I changed one that the aluminum one sheered off (97 Grand Prix). I got a new tensioner bracket from a junk yard for like $20. Other options are a new tensioner bracket from the parts store OR retro-fit your car to a newer setup using two plastic elbows....