Naturally Aspirated L36
#1
Naturally Aspirated L36
Hey guys, just wanna get your opinions on how to get a NA L36 to run low 15s to high (maybe mid??) 14s in the quarter mile. Am not considering forced induction as of the moment due to budgetary constraints. I was thinking of these mods in order...
- K&N SRI
- Plog
- 2.5 DP
- ER Ratio Rockers or GT1 Cam
- Dyno tune (There's a shop here that does it for $150/hr)
I might possibly get the HV3 insert and ZZP's St1 Throttle Body, afterwards...
- K&N SRI
- Plog
- 2.5 DP
- ER Ratio Rockers or GT1 Cam
- Dyno tune (There's a shop here that does it for $150/hr)
I might possibly get the HV3 insert and ZZP's St1 Throttle Body, afterwards...
Last edited by hbcase2; 07-18-2009 at 09:18 PM.
#2
#3
Dont pay any attention to the car and driver numbers. I dont know what they were smoking when they got them. The numbers should be closer to 7.5-8sec 0-60 and 15.8-16sec in the 1/4.
#4
IMO, with all the money you're planning on spending with a tune, cam, hv3, etc etc etc- you've got way more than enough for a top swap. Just buy it a piece at a time. I mean you've easily got $1k+ in mods listed there.
I had a buddy that had rockers, PEMS, 2.5" dp, straight piped exhaust, FWI, ZZP tune, 180 tstat, and a couple other minor things, and his best was like a 15.4 with all the stuff in the trunk taken out, as well as the passenger seat.
Personally, I don't like doing a cam in an L36 unless you're doing a TC too- we had a guy on the monte boards that got screwed with that (Buck)- and I saw a local guy go through that too. They're a lot more sensitive to where the power band is than an L67.
I had a buddy that had rockers, PEMS, 2.5" dp, straight piped exhaust, FWI, ZZP tune, 180 tstat, and a couple other minor things, and his best was like a 15.4 with all the stuff in the trunk taken out, as well as the passenger seat.
Personally, I don't like doing a cam in an L36 unless you're doing a TC too- we had a guy on the monte boards that got screwed with that (Buck)- and I saw a local guy go through that too. They're a lot more sensitive to where the power band is than an L67.
#5
mrl390, I was wondering why the numbers seemed so... slow too lol!!
bumpin96, great point on the total cost of the mods... I'm now also trying to check out ZZPs SS M90 kit and if it's worth it if I get the M90 and L67 intake manifold myself and just get them to port it.
As I see it, the M90 is a bit simpler but it costs more. A straight top swap is just a little more work.
bumpin96, great point on the total cost of the mods... I'm now also trying to check out ZZPs SS M90 kit and if it's worth it if I get the M90 and L67 intake manifold myself and just get them to port it.
As I see it, the M90 is a bit simpler but it costs more. A straight top swap is just a little more work.
#6
ZZP's SS kit is for those that cannot do the labor of roughly the equivalent to a head gasket change. You end up buying a bunch of expensive parts that you'd never need with a normal L67 top swap. You're just paying extra for the conveinece of an easier install.
#8
From what I remember, he originally bought an Intense cam; and it moved the power band up too much, and he ended up not running anywhere near what it should- and they told him it had to have a high stall TC to work right (I don't think it was all that crazy of a cam either).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post