Ok, it's been awhile but I think I should post something here to let you know where I'm at.

I got both the heads off now. The headgaskets were ready to break in half so I ordered a whole new gasket kit from FEL-PRO. Cost me about 300 bucks. To remove the rear head / Exhaust Manifold, I had to litterally Saw the muffler from the receptacle that would hold the pipe in place. There were 2 bolts that were on there so tight I couldn't get them off even with a propane blowtorch.

Anywho, I have to put the heads back on now and I found out that you can't reuse the original bolts since they are "torque to yield" and they stretch. So I'm waiting for the new bolts for tomorrow morning. 2 sets of 8 bolts cost me about 60 bucks!! Killer!

btw. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the cam carriers that go on top of the heads? The haynes manual says the head is 44 pounds plus another 90 degree turn. But I can't see the cam carriers being 20 pounds of pressure. They were on way harder than that. Any confirmation on this?

Also I'm nerve-wracked about this timing belt and how it's gonna go on. Anyone know where I can find a how to?

Once these gaskets are replaced, I'm almost positive that this car should be back to normal.. if it's not, I'm replacing the radiator. If that doesn't work.. well, god rest my soul when I'm done with it.

 

Well...
I put new headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, cam gaskets, new intake manifold, new torque bolts for heads, new EGR valve gaskets, new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt, new pulley, Special GM tools to work with the engine.

My antifreeze is pissing all over the place from the radiator cap and my engine is still boiling over. My fans don't recognize that the engine is running too hot becuase for some reason the antifreeze isn't making it past the thermostat (replaced twice, can't be it) so my fans wont turn on and cool the radiator off. The thermo sensor is underneath the intake manifold so it won't know to kick on till the water hits the thermostat..

I did a pressure test on the radiator and didn't see any leaking anywhere.

Guys, I'm like all out of ideas here. Anyone got anything?
I'm desperate at this point.. Almost $1000 in the hole.

Please please please please help.. anything will help at this point.
Someone said something about planing the heads.. but I don't see how that would benefit.
Supposedly air can seep into the heads through the headgaskets and create extra pressure within the combustion chamber and cause the motor to overheat.. but I doubt this is the issue.

 

hmmmmm..... find a used engine at the junkyard & bolt on all of your new parts? idk what to tell ya, man.... except that possibly a collant passage somewhere in the engine is blocked? it could be in the heads or the block itself..... like i said, though, you basiclly have a brand new top end, you should see if you can find a good used block & heads or a whole engine & bolt on all your new parts outside of the car, & drop her in, that way it should be maintained for a while, too...

 

Im working on a vehicle with the exact problems and conditions and I have a quick question fer ya. I may have missed it if you did post it, but did you have the HEAD tested? If the head was warped it could have needed plaining or maybe it was cracked which is what I think is happening in the vehicle Im working on because the head gaskets were in good shape and someone had recently replaced the intake gaskets. My number 3 cyl was showing random missfires in the mornings and once I removed that particular plug it was white. A tale tale sign that it was burning coolant.
Luckily I have a few other motors laying around and Im just gonna grab a head from one of them, its cheaper than having it tested. Most shops here charge from 75 to 100 bones to test them.
Anyhow, ill wait for your response.

 

Whats up guy!
Believe it or not, I'm sending the heads to a machine shop today to have them milled down. I believe that is exactly the problem that I am having and they are charging me 85 bucks a piece.
I should have had them planed from the getgo but unfortunately I wasn't smart enough to do that. But since I'm ripping my motor down a second time and it's faster for me, I decided to create a series of youtube videos on how to do things yourself on a 3.4L DOHC motor. I have about 15 videos up now and will add more as I go along.
Here is a link:
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...5B810B15BE742E

 

Make sure they also check them for cracks. Most shops clean, test and mill as a whole service but I would still ask to make sure they check em. I should have this engine back together and running by noon today, Ill let you know how mine turned out.

 

will do!
Definitely let me know how it works out!

 

Well, as I assumed. The head was damaged. Its defenetly not warped so it must have a crack on CYL 3. I cant see it but it may be by behind the valve but I know it is because it was only burning coolant on that CYL only and the gasket showed no damage... Anyhow, its running great. No more white smoke and it stays Half way on the Heat gauge.

Im glad I had a spare motor to use the head from..

The worst part of it all is that I had just replaced the engine and I bought it from a so called friend of mine who also owns a repair shop. He said it was all good... What a friend huh?

Well its running and ready to be driven...

Hope this helps out anyone reading this post.

Have the heads inspected even if you know that the gasket is bad. It will cost you some money to do it but it sure beats doing the job twice....


PeaCe!

 

Ahhhh

Now I have the P0171 code.....

I know its a vac leak.. But I cant find it....

Misconseption... P0171 is NOT and I repeat NOT an Oxygen sensor. Its a vac leak past the MAF sensor.. Ive spent a few hours at the end of the workday trying to find it.. But I will soon get to the bottom of it...

Just Updating...

 

Hey man, I got the same thing going on.
You definitely pinpointed it. It's not an O2 sensor but a vacuum leak in the MFS.
Matter of fact I think it's the hose that's connected to the IACL or IACV or IAVC or whatever it is... basically the Idle speed controller. But don't forget to look for a electronic plug that's directly underneath the actual MFSensor.. mine was a yellow connection and I missed it the first time.

There are a few vacuum leaks that can be there...
-First, theres the hose that goes from underneath the intake manifold into the intake plenum,
-the one that connects into the idle speed controller or IACV or whatever.
-Another line that goes from the MFS to the fuel rail / black thing on top of the fuel rail.
-Another short line that goes from above the idle speed controller area straight to the front camshaft carrier
-And I BELIEVE another that goes from the back of the MF System to the actual Air flow arm somewhere .... a very little plastic hose.
Replace the hoses, lemme know. I'm trying to find mine as well.. but don't forget about that little electronic switch underneath the MFS

I got my heads checked yesterday and got them back from the shop today. They pressure tested my heads for cracks. There was none (thank god*). They milled the heads down to .006 of an inch and made them level again. Also took my replacement valve seals and seated them in and fixed a bent/damaged guide pin. Cost me round $311 and change. That set me back a couple brew-skis. Hoping to get the car up and running by Friday. Here Here to that!