1995 Z35 Idle Problems
#12
A lot of the suggestions that were thrown out, are all about $10 parts. They have a common failure, and an easy way to diagnose before you buy the new part.
Please let's not get angry about this situation. It is always difficult when your car has problems and you can't find the answer, but let's not bite each other's heads off.
Read through the suggestions again, and see if any of them sound like they could really be the problem. Research what each thing does, and etc.
Please let's not get angry about this situation. It is always difficult when your car has problems and you can't find the answer, but let's not bite each other's heads off.
Read through the suggestions again, and see if any of them sound like they could really be the problem. Research what each thing does, and etc.
#13
Im sorry, my post wasnt meant to sound as harsh as it did. Sometimes its hard to read text the same way it is meant to be heard. It was more meant to let you know that your problem is likely one of the things we described. You can test some of them without having to replace them like with the IAC valve as I stated before. You can also test for intake gasket leaks by spraying starting fluid around the base of the intake manifold by the gaskets. If the car revs up when you spray the fluid then you probably have a leaking intake gasket. I know its expensive to do repairs and you cant just go out and buy parts and throw it at the car hoping the problem is fixed. I also know that with the time/money you spent on fixing the cam cover gasket and replacing the spark plugs, you probably could have diagnosed and fixed your problem. Again, sorry for being so blunt, thats how I am sometimes, but remember Im just trying to help out thats all.
Last edited by mrl390; 09-08-2009 at 05:17 PM.
#14
Similar idling problem
Hey everyone,
I'm having a similar idle problem with my 1997 Monte Carlo Z34.
The problem i'm having is when i start my car up, regardless of the temperature, the rpms shoot up to 3 or 4000 and slowly come back down to around 900. This also only happens if i give it some gas while starting up.
If i dont press my acceleration pedal while starting the car up, it will eventually turn on, but the rpms will drop right back down to 0 and the car will turn right off.
The really aggrivating problem is when the car is stopped at a traffic light or stop sign, or when coasting under 20mph without accelerating, the power steering turns off and the engine shuts down, causing me to have to come to a stop and restart the engine, starting the cycle all over again.
I have replaced my MassAirFlow sensor, my ThrottlePositionSensor, cleaned out the throttle body, and repaired a leak in the connector that connects my FuelPressureRegulator hose to my throttle body. Each of these replacements seemed to work or correct the problem for about a day, but the problems would start right back up again the next.
The codes that i got when having the diagnostic tool hooked up were
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance and and P0441 Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow.
The next part i was advised to check/replace is my Idle Air Control Valve. I have to drive back to MD from SC, about an 8 hour drive, next week, and really need to get my car in shape by then. Any comments or suggestions about what to do next? I would greatly appriciate it.
Gotta love them monte carlos...!
I'm having a similar idle problem with my 1997 Monte Carlo Z34.
The problem i'm having is when i start my car up, regardless of the temperature, the rpms shoot up to 3 or 4000 and slowly come back down to around 900. This also only happens if i give it some gas while starting up.
If i dont press my acceleration pedal while starting the car up, it will eventually turn on, but the rpms will drop right back down to 0 and the car will turn right off.
The really aggrivating problem is when the car is stopped at a traffic light or stop sign, or when coasting under 20mph without accelerating, the power steering turns off and the engine shuts down, causing me to have to come to a stop and restart the engine, starting the cycle all over again.
I have replaced my MassAirFlow sensor, my ThrottlePositionSensor, cleaned out the throttle body, and repaired a leak in the connector that connects my FuelPressureRegulator hose to my throttle body. Each of these replacements seemed to work or correct the problem for about a day, but the problems would start right back up again the next.
The codes that i got when having the diagnostic tool hooked up were
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance and and P0441 Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow.
The next part i was advised to check/replace is my Idle Air Control Valve. I have to drive back to MD from SC, about an 8 hour drive, next week, and really need to get my car in shape by then. Any comments or suggestions about what to do next? I would greatly appriciate it.
Gotta love them monte carlos...!
#15
i know this has nothing to do with anything. but my dad has a jeep that does that same thing, where he has to rev the car up or it dies. check your battery/ alternator. sorry if it sounds dumb, but thats what he was told to fix.
i would think its a throttle ps, or a maf sensore. also the pcv valve, could be the coulprit. its a three dollar part, that helped idleing on my lumina. when its dirty, i think it rattles??? its basicly the start to your vacum lines
i would think its a throttle ps, or a maf sensore. also the pcv valve, could be the coulprit. its a three dollar part, that helped idleing on my lumina. when its dirty, i think it rattles??? its basicly the start to your vacum lines
#16
2 cheep things that might help: get a new TPS (throttle position sensor), they are a sub $15 part, get a new EGR valve ($3) and finally try soaking your MAF (mass air flow) sensor with brakecleen.... if it is caked with crap, you can clean it & idle should improve some.....
#17
mine has done the same thing. but it didnt stall out. when you crank mine the rpms got to about 2500 and they NEVER get below 1300. then i looked at there is a little black tube that goes from the throttle body to the transmission and it was completely off. i put it back on and it idles arounds 1100-1150. and sometimes it has a lopey idle. ive checked all the vacuum lines and there arent any leaks. idk if that helped you or not.
#18
mine has done the same thing. but it didnt stall out. when you crank mine the rpms got to about 2500 and they NEVER get below 1300. then i looked at there is a little black tube that goes from the throttle body to the transmission and it was completely off. i put it back on and it idles arounds 1100-1150. and sometimes it has a lopey idle. ive checked all the vacuum lines and there arent any leaks. idk if that helped you or not.
i recommend buying two upper intake manifold gaskets and RTVing one to each side of that connection then putting it back together. it makes a clean separation when it comes time to change plugs in the back.
another place is the fuel injector o rings can crack and fail on an older car too.
#19
old but I bet I can help
So I had the same issue in my monte 34 97'. Took it to the Chevy dealer to have it checked out. Turned out to be the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's about a 35-40 dollar part at autozone. My car would rev super high when I turned it on and then just stall right out. I replaced EVERYTHING on the throttle arm.. I'm talking TPS, IAC valve, MAF gaskets, air filter, everything.. the fuel pressure regulator was the culprit.. after a while the screen in it gets clogged with crap and it prevents the flow of gas until the pressure just explodes. Good luck!
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