I redid the interior on my 71. Went to a body shop supply place and had them color match a vinyl dye. Then used a prep cleaner and sprayed it on with a Preval bottle sprayer. Results were better than oem and it will not crack or peel off after time. It also held the original vinyl grain perfectly.

 

wow how much was that paint that you got color matched thatd be kinda cool a lot of cars do that now to like all the bugs and some pt cruisers etc. you open the door and it just flows into the inside its nice

 

i really like 2000_black_ss interior, seeing as he has the same paint as me it looks good. i also have a black/red theme, but havent done anything on the interior yet. need to do a bit more research so i can get creative, dont want to copy anyones idea. all my coloring has been under the hood so far. thanks for all the ideas though guys, gives me a great starting point. glad we have this post.

 

you can go to a paint shop an they can either sell you vinyl paint any color for like around 30 bucks a pint that you shoot out of a spray gun or a spray can for anywhere from 30 to 50 any color

 

some tips from a professional automotive painter on painting plastic parts:

i relaize not everyone is going to have access to some of the materials i mention, but the info im giving is based on expirence..

1. always, always, always clean plastic parts with an anti-static, water based cleaner prior to painting.. plastics have many oils and contaminants in them that get released when sanded... this will help prevent "fish-eyes" in your paint.
not to mention the dreaded "armor-alled " car. seriously, this crap is like cancer to paint.if you have ever used Armour all on your car, even only once , i HIGHLY recommend a good cleaning or i guaruntee you will have issues with paint.

2. always use a lower grit scuff pad to give some teeth and grip to anything you paint otherwise it WILL peel. you could use this scuffing in addition to the plastic cleaner to make sure you get the part really clean. but becareful not to dig in to deep with pressure, all u need is a light scuff.. if u go to deep you will cause the paint to swell around any deep scratches

3. always, always, always use an adhesion promoter on plastic parts just prior to applying sealer and paint. its a clear, rapid evoaporating coating used to make sure stuff sticks to any little groves you missed scuffing

4. SEM paint is the best for painting interior panels , unless u like that shiney, bumpy, texture you'll get with a urathane spray can or clear coating it , nothing looks more diy than using a shiney coating on bumpy texture(yuck, puke)..SEM paint is made to reproduce the factory finish and withstand the wear and tear .. and sun..
if your taking the time to do it.. Do IT RIGHT!!!!

5. if you want to remove the texture on your interior parts... you can either use a primer surfacer to build it up and wet sand down to a smooth finish , of course this will take alot more time .. or while in the spray booth u can apply 2 or 3 coats of a sealer to build it up..

6. a wet-on-wet sealer (grey) should always be used on all plastic parts.. think of house painting and trying to seperate the old from the new.. same thing on cars .. (wet-on-wet means theres no sanding in between coats.. once the first coat tacks off and becomes dull'ish, you can apply another.. building it up.)

7. if your interior part has a textured look, DONT CLEAR COAT. trust me it will look like ***

luckily for me i have a full line of SEM paint in my paint shop.. i do plan on doing this in the summer.. ill take some pics of the steps when i do it and post it here...

hope some of these tips help..