Eliminating Water Spots -CarWashing/Paint + More
#1
05-03-2007, 05:58 PM
Eliminating Water Spots -CarWashing/Paint + More
[align=center]Eliminating Water Spots [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Get rid of them before they ruin your paint & glass[/align][align=center][/align][align=center]
[/align][align=center]
by L Emanuelson[/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Water should be a fairly harmless liquid. After all, we drink it, we bathe in it and we even use water to wash our vehicles, so how bad could it be? The answer to that question depends on where you live and the minerals that are present in the local water supply. For example, the water in the Southwestern portion of the U.S. is full of hard mineral deposits that will literally etch themselves into paint and window glass if they are left on your vehicle for an extended period of time. Lawn sprinklers are the worst. Leave your vehicle where it gets water-spotted by the sprinklers, then baked by the sun, and the spots are not only difficult to remove, but they may do irreparable damage as well. [/align][align=center]Offense, Defense [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]
[/align][align=center]Like most problems, the best defense is a good offense. In this case, keeping a good coat of wax on your paint and window glass (that's right, use a glass wax) is the first line of defense against acid rain or water-spot etching. The second line of defense is to act fast to remove any water spots that may get on your vehicle. Time is relative. If you have a dark-colored vehicle and it stays out in the bright sun, you have less time to deal with the problem than a white vehicle in overcast conditions. It all has to do with surface temperature—the hotter it is, the tougher the water spots are to remove. [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Removing water spots is fairly easy if you catch them soon enough. Re-washing your vehicle won't do a thing. Instead, mix up a solution of 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 distilled white vinegar in a spray bottle and carry it in your vehicle along with a soft, clean cloth. When you notice water spots, move the vehicle into the shade, let the surface cool down, spray the paint with this water/vinegar solution and wipe it off with the soft, clean cloth. The spots should come right off. Your waxed surface may be dulled by this solution, so apply a coat of wax when you get the chance [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]
[/align][align=center]If you don't like the smell of vinegar and don't mind spending more money, commercial water-spot removers are available at most boat shops. They work the same way: Just spray the surface down and wipe off with a clean cloth. (I've found the white vinegar just as effective and a lot less expensive.) What if the water spots have gone too far and actually etched the clear coat of your paint or the window glass? More drastic measures are called for. For window glass, try a good dry scrubbing with 000-grade steel wool to remove the spots without damaging the glass. If that doesn't do the job, then the windows will have to be polished with a commercially available glass polish and a power buffer.
[/align][align=center][b]Because today's water-based paints are very delicate (especially the clearcoat), you'll want to experiment with the least-aggressive polish available. Try hand-polishing with a cleaner-type liquid wax. If the spots persist, then have a professional buff the surface with a fine polishing com
[/align][align=center]
by L Emanuelson[/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Water should be a fairly harmless liquid. After all, we drink it, we bathe in it and we even use water to wash our vehicles, so how bad could it be? The answer to that question depends on where you live and the minerals that are present in the local water supply. For example, the water in the Southwestern portion of the U.S. is full of hard mineral deposits that will literally etch themselves into paint and window glass if they are left on your vehicle for an extended period of time. Lawn sprinklers are the worst. Leave your vehicle where it gets water-spotted by the sprinklers, then baked by the sun, and the spots are not only difficult to remove, but they may do irreparable damage as well. [/align][align=center]Offense, Defense [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]
[/align][align=center]Like most problems, the best defense is a good offense. In this case, keeping a good coat of wax on your paint and window glass (that's right, use a glass wax) is the first line of defense against acid rain or water-spot etching. The second line of defense is to act fast to remove any water spots that may get on your vehicle. Time is relative. If you have a dark-colored vehicle and it stays out in the bright sun, you have less time to deal with the problem than a white vehicle in overcast conditions. It all has to do with surface temperature—the hotter it is, the tougher the water spots are to remove. [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Removing water spots is fairly easy if you catch them soon enough. Re-washing your vehicle won't do a thing. Instead, mix up a solution of 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 distilled white vinegar in a spray bottle and carry it in your vehicle along with a soft, clean cloth. When you notice water spots, move the vehicle into the shade, let the surface cool down, spray the paint with this water/vinegar solution and wipe it off with the soft, clean cloth. The spots should come right off. Your waxed surface may be dulled by this solution, so apply a coat of wax when you get the chance [/align][align=center][/align][align=center]
[/align][align=center]If you don't like the smell of vinegar and don't mind spending more money, commercial water-spot removers are available at most boat shops. They work the same way: Just spray the surface down and wipe off with a clean cloth. (I've found the white vinegar just as effective and a lot less expensive.) What if the water spots have gone too far and actually etched the clear coat of your paint or the window glass? More drastic measures are called for. For window glass, try a good dry scrubbing with 000-grade steel wool to remove the spots without damaging the glass. If that doesn't do the job, then the windows will have to be polished with a commercially available glass polish and a power buffer.
[/align][align=center][b]Because today's water-based paints are very delicate (especially the clearcoat), you'll want to experiment with the least-aggressive polish available. Try hand-polishing with a cleaner-type liquid wax. If the spots persist, then have a professional buff the surface with a fine polishing com
#4
05-09-2007, 07:23 AM
RE: Eliminating Water Spots. . . + More
[align=center]Cleaning GLASS IS TRICKY[/align][align=center][/align][align=left]Clean automotive glass is possible with the right products and techniques!
Cleaning automotive glass is tricky, but well worth doing. Clean, clear glass looks beautiful next to clean, waxed paint. Crystal clear glass will give you optimum visibility when driving. That’s a significant life-safety factor we ignore at our peril. Just a few extra minutes detailing your windows will add a sparkling touch to your vehicle’s finish and just might save your life!
The Facts About Glass Cleaners
Nearly all glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is a great grease cutter but has some significant disadvantages.
[ul][*]It can release prodigious amounts of fumes that should not be inhaled especially in enclosed areas, like the inside of your vehicle. [*]Chemically it acts to dry out plastic, rubber, vinyl, and leather. [*]Most significantly, in sunnier climates, car owners often customize with additional non-factory tinting. Ammonia based cleaners cannot be used on tinted windows. If your current cleaner does not state “ammonia-free” or “safe for tinted windows” you should find another cleaner. [/ul]NOTE: AVOID HOUSEHOLD GLASS CLEANERS, which almost all contain ammonia. A few examples of tint-safe glass cleaners are; Stoner Invisible Glass, DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner, and Meguiar’s NXT Generation Glass Cleaner.
A Tip for Tinted Windows: Use Plexus to polish and protect the window tint. Apply it only to the inside of the glass where tint is visible. It will seal the tint material (Mylar) and keep it clean. Plexus is non-static, non-streaking, and it dries crystal sparkling clear.
Some people prefer to use plain water to clean their windows. While this is a very safe method, water is not enough of a solvent to cut the protein base of stubborn spots, like bug remains.
High quality microfiber is micro-engineered to eliminate lint and is extraordinarily absorbent to prevent streaking.
One hand tool that’s well worth a try is Glass Master Pro-Glass and Surface Cleaner. This long-armed glass scrubber can help you your SUV windshield and those hard to get at top of the cab windows or your sunroof.
Clean By Numbers
[ol][*]Detail your vehicle. Glass should be the last thing you do to avoid re-contaminating it during the detailing process. [*]Work out of the sun on dry windows. The sun can cause glass cleaner to evaporate too quickly and leave residues. [*]Spend some extra time on your windshield because you look though it more than the rest of the windows. Lightly dampen your microfiber towel with your cleaner of choice. We highly recommend DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner[b] for its non-streaking, film-zapping performance. Wipe up and down and then side to side using long strokes. Flip the towel to a dry side to remove any remaining wetness
Cleaning automotive glass is tricky, but well worth doing. Clean, clear glass looks beautiful next to clean, waxed paint. Crystal clear glass will give you optimum visibility when driving. That’s a significant life-safety factor we ignore at our peril. Just a few extra minutes detailing your windows will add a sparkling touch to your vehicle’s finish and just might save your life!
The Facts About Glass Cleaners
Nearly all glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is a great grease cutter but has some significant disadvantages. [ul][*]It can release prodigious amounts of fumes that should not be inhaled especially in enclosed areas, like the inside of your vehicle. [*]Chemically it acts to dry out plastic, rubber, vinyl, and leather. [*]Most significantly, in sunnier climates, car owners often customize with additional non-factory tinting. Ammonia based cleaners cannot be used on tinted windows. If your current cleaner does not state “ammonia-free” or “safe for tinted windows” you should find another cleaner. [/ul]NOTE: AVOID HOUSEHOLD GLASS CLEANERS, which almost all contain ammonia. A few examples of tint-safe glass cleaners are; Stoner Invisible Glass, DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner, and Meguiar’s NXT Generation Glass Cleaner.
A Tip for Tinted Windows: Use Plexus to polish and protect the window tint. Apply it only to the inside of the glass where tint is visible. It will seal the tint material (Mylar) and keep it clean. Plexus is non-static, non-streaking, and it dries crystal sparkling clear.
Some people prefer to use plain water to clean their windows. While this is a very safe method, water is not enough of a solvent to cut the protein base of stubborn spots, like bug remains. High quality microfiber is micro-engineered to eliminate lint and is extraordinarily absorbent to prevent streaking.
One hand tool that’s well worth a try is Glass Master Pro-Glass and Surface Cleaner. This long-armed glass scrubber can help you your SUV windshield and those hard to get at top of the cab windows or your sunroof.
Clean By Numbers
[ol][*]Detail your vehicle. Glass should be the last thing you do to avoid re-contaminating it during the detailing process. [*]Work out of the sun on dry windows. The sun can cause glass cleaner to evaporate too quickly and leave residues. [*]Spend some extra time on your windshield because you look though it more than the rest of the windows. Lightly dampen your microfiber towel with your cleaner of choice. We highly recommend DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner[b] for its non-streaking, film-zapping performance. Wipe up and down and then side to side using long strokes. Flip the towel to a dry side to remove any remaining wetness
#6
08-15-2007, 07:17 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,264
RE: Eliminating Water Spots. . . + More
final inspection by meguairs, if your car isn't that dirty or its just rained and you want to clean the water spots and dust off...this stuff works awesome...will look better than if it did coming out of a car wash 
#7
08-15-2007, 07:26 AM
RE: Eliminating Water Spots. . . + More
[align=center]Thanks Mod `Wiz for the Tip : )[/align][align=center]
128 oz. Meguiars Mirror Glaze #34 Final Inspection
Maintain that showroom shine... anywhere, anytime!
For all of us car care perfectionists… the experts at Meguiar’s have developed a product that rewards, and perhaps even encourages, our obsession: #34 Final Inspection.
More than a “spot” detailer, Final Inspection was developed for professionals to use just before their cars hit the concours, and detailers needing to give display cars extra finesse in showrooms. Final Inspection pulls the ultimate shine out of the car’s finish, leaving an ultra bright, eye popping sparkle that gets noticed. It’s great for getting residue off the surface like on body seams where extra cleaners, polishes, and waxes generally settle. #34 is gentle for all paints, even the most delicate.
Count on #34 Final Inspection to wipe away the blight of fingerprints, light grime, and dust. Interestingly, Meguiar’s paid very special attention to the problem of dust when they created Final Inspection. They ingeniously developed a specific variety of lubricant that encapsulates the dust, thus removing it; yet it goes a step beyond. The formula discourages the settling of new dust and the ultra-brighteners bring out the depth of the paint’s color while the shine enhancers leave a glass-like mirror finish.
Meguiar’s #34 Final Inspection is easy to use. Just mist onto a section of your car, and wipe with a lint free cloth. Try to avoid using Final Inspection in direct sunlight, it will still work, but you’ll need more elbow grease when wiping to a shine. Final Inspection makes the perfect lubricant when you’re working with a clay bar as well!
You put that extra effort into maintaining your car’s appearance every day. Now get the ultimate results. When even the little imperfections and impurities are more aggravation than you need, turn to Meguiar’s #34 Final Inspection, and please even your worst critic, yourself! For a superb shine anywhere, anytime: Final Inspection.
[/align][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Click below for source [/align][align=center][:-][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]http://www.autogeek.net/1gallonrefill2.html
[/align]
128 oz. Meguiars Mirror Glaze #34 Final Inspection
Maintain that showroom shine... anywhere, anytime!
For all of us car care perfectionists… the experts at Meguiar’s have developed a product that rewards, and perhaps even encourages, our obsession: #34 Final Inspection.
More than a “spot” detailer, Final Inspection was developed for professionals to use just before their cars hit the concours, and detailers needing to give display cars extra finesse in showrooms. Final Inspection pulls the ultimate shine out of the car’s finish, leaving an ultra bright, eye popping sparkle that gets noticed. It’s great for getting residue off the surface like on body seams where extra cleaners, polishes, and waxes generally settle. #34 is gentle for all paints, even the most delicate.
Count on #34 Final Inspection to wipe away the blight of fingerprints, light grime, and dust. Interestingly, Meguiar’s paid very special attention to the problem of dust when they created Final Inspection. They ingeniously developed a specific variety of lubricant that encapsulates the dust, thus removing it; yet it goes a step beyond. The formula discourages the settling of new dust and the ultra-brighteners bring out the depth of the paint’s color while the shine enhancers leave a glass-like mirror finish.
Meguiar’s #34 Final Inspection is easy to use. Just mist onto a section of your car, and wipe with a lint free cloth. Try to avoid using Final Inspection in direct sunlight, it will still work, but you’ll need more elbow grease when wiping to a shine. Final Inspection makes the perfect lubricant when you’re working with a clay bar as well!
You put that extra effort into maintaining your car’s appearance every day. Now get the ultimate results. When even the little imperfections and impurities are more aggravation than you need, turn to Meguiar’s #34 Final Inspection, and please even your worst critic, yourself! For a superb shine anywhere, anytime: Final Inspection.
[/align][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Click below for source [/align][align=center][:-][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]http://www.autogeek.net/1gallonrefill2.html
[/align]
#8
08-15-2007, 08:38 AM
RE: Eliminating Water Spots. . . + More
[align=center]
Frequently Asked Questions
[/align][/align][/align]
Don't Substitute Window Cleaner for Windshield Washer Solution!
Dear Tom, I would like to know if it's OK to use regular Windex glass cleaner to refill an empty windshield washer bottle, and what damage could it do to my car's paint job? Also, what is the best cleaner for chrome? Arthur from Houston
Arthur, Do you own stock in Windex? The chemicals in Windex (or another other glass cleaner) are more concentrated and will quickly deteriorate the plastic parts of the windshield washer system. In addition, the windshield wiper blades will deteriorate faster. If you use the Windex with ammonia or other additives, eventual degradation of the paint finish is possible. Finally, if you live where it gets cold enough, Windex will freeze up the washer system, disabling it completely. Just because it is blue doesn't mean that it is good to use as washer fluid. When cleaning chrome, what you use depends on what you are cleaning off the chrome. A soap and water solution is the best cleaner for road dirt, oil, and grime. If you are trying to remove rust pits, you won't be able to. You can make them appear smaller by using an abrasive pad, but they will return (as will any corrosion will that has started on the chrome). The only way to eliminate the corrosion is to remove the part and either replace it or have it re-chromed. I wish you the best. Tom
Check Towing Recommendations Before Towing a Vehicle
Dear Tom, My daughter-in-law owns a '92 Kia Sportage SUV ([URL=http://autos.aol.com/kia-sportage-2007:8840-overview]Get 2007 Kia Sportage Pricing), automatic with 4WD. It has 90K miles on it. My son recently towed it on a tow dolly from Columbus, Ohio to Buffalo, N.Y. When he arrived the transmission would not shift normally and there was no reverse. It was low on transmission fluid so he added fluid with no improvement. Also, when he tried to engage the four-wheel drive, it would not shift into gear. Any suggestions? Thanks. Marcia from Buffalo
[align=center][/align]
With over 27 years of automotive experience, Tom makes learning about cars easy. Get more of his advice below:
[align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][center]Marcia, Oh no! Your son should have checked the towing recommendations for that vehicle before towing it that far with the wheels making contact with the road! With the rear wheels on the ground, the axles -- driveshaft -- transfer case -- transmission are turning and with the engine not running, there is no fluid pumping lubrication through the drivetrain, hence meltdown occurs. Have it checked out by a transmission expert, but I think a trip to the salvage yard for a transmission and transfer case may be in order. Sorry for the bad news. Tom
A/C Smells Like Mildew? There's a Solution
Dear Tom, I own a 2005 Chevy Cobalt (Get 2007 Chevy Cobalt Pricing[b]) and every time I turn on the air conditioner in the air circulation mode it smells like mildew. What is the problem? Jo Ann from Long Beach, Calif.
Jo Ann, You probably have mildew growing in the A/C evaporator case. Your car is under warranty. Take it back to the dealer. GM has factory-approved procedures to help remove the odors from the A/C evaporator case. It involves spraying an industrial grade disinfectant into the air intake for the HVAC system, then letting it do its work. Hopefully the disinfectant will kill the mold. If it doesn't, the parts from the HVAC will need to be removed and cleaned, or possibly replaced. This is very costly and time-consuming repair work, so get back the car back to the dealership as soon as possible and get it covered under warranty
Frequently Asked Questions
[/align][/align][/align]
Don't Substitute Window Cleaner for Windshield Washer Solution!
Dear Tom, I would like to know if it's OK to use regular Windex glass cleaner to refill an empty windshield washer bottle, and what damage could it do to my car's paint job? Also, what is the best cleaner for chrome? Arthur from Houston
Arthur, Do you own stock in Windex? The chemicals in Windex (or another other glass cleaner) are more concentrated and will quickly deteriorate the plastic parts of the windshield washer system. In addition, the windshield wiper blades will deteriorate faster. If you use the Windex with ammonia or other additives, eventual degradation of the paint finish is possible. Finally, if you live where it gets cold enough, Windex will freeze up the washer system, disabling it completely. Just because it is blue doesn't mean that it is good to use as washer fluid. When cleaning chrome, what you use depends on what you are cleaning off the chrome. A soap and water solution is the best cleaner for road dirt, oil, and grime. If you are trying to remove rust pits, you won't be able to. You can make them appear smaller by using an abrasive pad, but they will return (as will any corrosion will that has started on the chrome). The only way to eliminate the corrosion is to remove the part and either replace it or have it re-chromed. I wish you the best. Tom
Check Towing Recommendations Before Towing a Vehicle
Dear Tom, My daughter-in-law owns a '92 Kia Sportage SUV ([URL=http://autos.aol.com/kia-sportage-2007:8840-overview]Get 2007 Kia Sportage Pricing), automatic with 4WD. It has 90K miles on it. My son recently towed it on a tow dolly from Columbus, Ohio to Buffalo, N.Y. When he arrived the transmission would not shift normally and there was no reverse. It was low on transmission fluid so he added fluid with no improvement. Also, when he tried to engage the four-wheel drive, it would not shift into gear. Any suggestions? Thanks. Marcia from Buffalo
With over 27 years of automotive experience, Tom makes learning about cars easy. Get more of his advice below:
A/C Smells Like Mildew? There's a Solution
Dear Tom, I own a 2005 Chevy Cobalt (Get 2007 Chevy Cobalt Pricing[b]) and every time I turn on the air conditioner in the air circulation mode it smells like mildew. What is the problem? Jo Ann from Long Beach, Calif.
Jo Ann, You probably have mildew growing in the A/C evaporator case. Your car is under warranty. Take it back to the dealer. GM has factory-approved procedures to help remove the odors from the A/C evaporator case. It involves spraying an industrial grade disinfectant into the air intake for the HVAC system, then letting it do its work. Hopefully the disinfectant will kill the mold. If it doesn't, the parts from the HVAC will need to be removed and cleaned, or possibly replaced. This is very costly and time-consuming repair work, so get back the car back to the dealership as soon as possible and get it covered under warranty
#9
08-15-2007, 11:43 AM
RE: Eliminating Water Spots. . . + More
[align=center]
Comfort Zone [/align]
by DMurphy[align=center][/align]
Comfort Zone [/align]
Stuff to make your ride cozy and comfy
[align=center][/align]by DMurphy
Despite the number of hours we spend behind the wheel, whether commuting drearily to work everyday, enjoying scenic road trips or just bopping around town running errands, our vehicles can become an ugly combination of a pigsty and torture chamber. Let's face it, we've all arrived at our destination with hips that won't flex and bums that have lost all feeling; we've all wondered where that important piece of paper went only to find it hiding among fast food wrappers and nameless grunge under the seats.
Interior Motives
[align=center][/align]Interior Motives
This is not an indictment of our fitness level, personal hygiene or neatness skills. Vehicles move and so do all the piles of valuables sitting on the passenger seat. Since you're strapped into the driving position (or at least should be), you risk disaster if it's time to stretch. Even when the vehicle is cruising on autopilot, you can't exactly get up and walk about to un-kink your muscles and tidy up. But there are remedies that can help make your driving experience as castle-like as your home.
[align=center][/align]Let's start with our aching backs and numb rears. No matter how throne-like car or trucks seats are, they have a tendency to get harder and harder as the odometer racks up miles. The problem is not in the seat design, it's in the fact every driver's body is different and car seats can't be adjusted to support every subtle nuance of our skeleton. Even if that seat was once blissfully comfortable, over the miles it may have taken on one's signature imprint and can no longer support the driver's body at the correct angle.
Seat Cushions
[align=center][/align]Seat Cushions
The answer lies in the range of seat cushions available at auto parts stores or over the Internet. Like those space age looking, ergonomically engineered desks, car seat cushions are designed to do the same thing—keep us comfortable and ache-free while we're stuck in one position for long stretches.
[align=center][/align]One example is a polyurethane foam cushion with a cutout that allows the tailbone to be suspended, relieving spinal pressure. If all our bodies were the same configuration, there would be one perfect cushion. Since we're all put together differently, the best way to identify your perfect cushion is to figure out what needs support or suspension. Find the cushion that appears to do what you need, then try it out.
Under Cover
[align=center][/align]Under Cover
Summer heat and shorts or thin, cotton pants on a vinyl seat are a really bad combination, surpassed only by winter cold and upholstery that has gone rigid and frigid overnight. The obvious solution is temperature-controlled seats that are standard equipment on a lot of new vehicles. There are aftermarket seat heaters, coolers and massagers available, but if that seems like overkill, try a set of sheepskin seat covers. They don't give a massage, but they are temperature resistant and keep you as comfortable as they once kept the sheep. This is one case where the gap between real vs. the faux sheepskin is enormous. Faux sheepskin does nothing but look woolly.
Hold Everything
[align=center][/align][center][b]The next step toward a serene and tidy vehicle is a quick assessment of real problem areas. Do you always have a pile of transient stuff on the passenger seat that takes on a mobile life of its own when your corner or brake hard? There are mesh nets
Hold Everything
#10
08-20-2007, 12:40 PM
RE: Eliminating Water Spots -Update + More
[/align]Washing/Cleaning your Monte Carlo[/align][/align]Part I: Tires and Wheels
When washing your car you are supposed to start at the top and work your way down. If you get the wheels and tires cleaned first, you won't have to worry about getting all the brake dust and road dirt all over your two hour wash and wax job.
Tires
Let's start with the tires. You can use the same car wash soap you use for the body of your car on your tires or you can purchase a special tire cleaner (if your tires have been through some really dirty roads). It's also a good idea to get a stiff bristled brush and scrub the tire to get all the grime off. Scrubbing down the tires produces a clean slate for applying some showroom shine to those puppies, which we'll get to in just a moment. Hose the tires down, apply your soap of choice, scrub them up and rinse them off. Be sure to take an old towel and dry the tires off at the end of the car wash process too.
[/align][/align][/align]Expert Tip: Do you have mud or dirt in your wheel wells? Spray the tire cleaner into the wheel well and use the same brush to clean up your wheel wells. If the brush is too big to fit, then take an old rag and wipe the inside well down. [/align]
[align=center]When washing your car you are supposed to start at the top and work your way down. If you get the wheels and tires cleaned first, you won't have to worry about getting all the brake dust and road dirt all over your two hour wash and wax job.
Tires
Let's start with the tires. You can use the same car wash soap you use for the body of your car on your tires or you can purchase a special tire cleaner (if your tires have been through some really dirty roads). It's also a good idea to get a stiff bristled brush and scrub the tire to get all the grime off. Scrubbing down the tires produces a clean slate for applying some showroom shine to those puppies, which we'll get to in just a moment. Hose the tires down, apply your soap of choice, scrub them up and rinse them off. Be sure to take an old towel and dry the tires off at the end of the car wash process too.
[/align][/align][/align]Expert Tip: Do you have mud or dirt in your wheel wells? Spray the tire cleaner into the wheel well and use the same brush to clean up your wheel wells. If the brush is too big to fit, then take an old rag and wipe the inside well down. [/align]
[hr]
[/align]
[/align]
[hr]
[/align]
[/align]
Wheels
Now let's get onto the wheels or rims, whatever you prefer to call them (and if you have those plastic rim spinners, for the love of all that is decent and good, take them off now and leave them off). It's important to make sure your wheels are cool to the touch and preferably out of direct sunlight, especially if you have expensive chrome or aluminum wheels. If the wheels are hot, some cleaners can stain them, so be sure to keep the wheels hosed down. Also make sure you get the right cleaner for your specific wheel type and finish or you could damage finish. If you aren't sure what type of wheel finish you have, and then get a wheel cleaner that is safe for all wheel types, otherwise you can look for specific cleaners made for polished, chrome or even non clear-coated aluminum wheels. If you are really specific about your wheels and want to be extremely careful, you'll want to find a cleaner, such as P21S , that contains no acid or lye, which can be harmful to a wheels finish.
To get the job done quicker, you can use a soft bristled brush to get most of the brake dust off, then use a wheel detail brush (which is usually shaped like a small Christmas tree) to get inside the spokes and the interior of the wheel, where all the nasty brake dust collects. To finish cleaning the wheel of brake dust, use a terry cloth rag or sponge and wipe down the areas that the brushes couldn't reach. Pay close attention to the corners where the spoke meet the outer rim and especially the underside of spokes that are closer to the top of the wheel, where you can't see them. Rinse the wheels off really well and enjoy the shine!
Expert Tip: Wear dishwashing gloves or latex painting gloves to keep your hands safe and clean from harmful brake dust and cleaner. [/align]
[hr]
[/align][center]
[/align]
Products You Can Try:
- [URL=http://shopping.aol.com/24oz+instant+wheel+cleaner+by+meguiars-products/][b]All Purpose Wheel Cle