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1st Gen ('70-'72): need help

  #1  
Old 02-17-2018, 01:24 AM
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Default need help


I think rear wheels are 4 1/2 backspacing, they are keystone raidars. I believe the tire size is 290/50/15 they just stick out too far any ideas?
 
  #2  
Old 02-17-2018, 07:55 AM
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Location: Isanti, MN
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Measure the backspacing from the inner bead of the rim to the face where it mounts to the drum/rotor to get exact distance, Is there more room between the frame and the tire to avoid rubbing ? I think they look just fine. Wondering if the front wheels are the same size (15x8,15x7) and have the same backspacing or different ? Very nice project car you have.
 
  #3  
Old 02-17-2018, 05:15 PM
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i believe the fronts are 15x8s, i have like 2 to inches from the frame to the inside of the rear wheels, so does that mean I need like a 6inch backspacing rims? to keep it from rubbing on the rear body lip. or can I take the grinder to it the lip?
 

Last edited by zieske70; 02-17-2018 at 05:25 PM.
  #4  
Old 02-17-2018, 05:29 PM
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these are 15x8 and they look too small
 
  #5  
Old 02-17-2018, 06:41 PM
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If you have 2 inches between the tire now and the frame I wouldn't go more than 5 inch backspace. You can assume the tire will flex a little during cornering and don't want it to wear against the frame. Having such a big tire doesn't help but image there are a few different choice's to solve your issue. Being a 1970 are the rear springs old or new ? Could get a adjustable shock ( air or coil over), perhaps a shorter tire . My last resort would be the grinder but would work.
 
  #6  
Old 02-17-2018, 07:33 PM
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it' a frame off resto. frame sent out to be sand blasted, semi gloss black powercoating done to the entire frame and suspension parts. new bushings, new shocks 1inch drop in the front, cargo springs in the back, built 406ci sb, built tranny, built rearend with Eaton limited slip, quick fuel 750cfm carb, long tube headers custom ceramic coating done by a shop where I live. it'



 

Last edited by zieske70; 02-17-2018 at 08:00 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:24 AM
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Location: Isanti, MN
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Great pictures, gave me flashbacks of laying on my back doing about the same thing with about all the same parts. A lot of time and money was probably spent getting you that far but just think how close you are to completion. I did notice in your pictures that the driver side valve cover has a breather in it and appears that the passenger side has a PVC valve in it. I avoid doing that because oil will allways leak out of the breather and onto the cover . If you get a sealed cap on the drivers side the system will produce enough vacuum to keep the oil off the covers and help seal the rings by reducing blowby even with a big cam in that 406. Just wondering about your engine, which crank and rod combo did you use ? I used a Eagle crank and rod's with the 5.7 rod and was very happy I didn't need to get a special cam.
 
  #8  
Old 02-18-2018, 06:30 PM
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the engine build sheet
 

Last edited by zieske70; 02-18-2018 at 06:46 PM.
  #9  
Old 02-18-2018, 07:20 PM
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Looks like a good combo of parts on the list. Did it come with papers or have you has engine on a dynamometer ? I used a lot of same or comparable parts with a little smaller cam {.487-.508) and 10. 3 - 1 compression and engine builder suggested I would be around 470 hp. Guessing your combo would get you near the 500 range but always more interested in that torque number.
 
  #10  
Old 02-18-2018, 07:41 PM
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i was suppose to get dyno sheets with the engine. didnt get any. its fine cuz im going to get it dynoed tuned after its done. engine builder said
[email protected] [email protected]
 

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