My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
#21
11-14-2007, 09:26 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
Oh, and to 86Ls.. if Duane takes insult from your little dragstergetting a better time then he's got problem. Lmao...
You're talking what, like 3000 pounds of difference and your little dragster with drag slicks, racing clutch, etc etc etc....
I'd say me and duane are doing darn good to be only a couple seconds slower, lol.
You mentioned something about adjusting the clutch and losing traction... Do you have a centrifugal clutch? I hear these make a huge difference in racing machines.. They've actually just started really getting popular for Motorcycles (harleys) because of the reduced lever pull, and better holding power.
It would really help make sure you don't lose any power through the clutch once you've launched, and keep it from launching so hard as to force the tires to lose traction.
You're talking what, like 3000 pounds of difference and your little dragster with drag slicks, racing clutch, etc etc etc....
I'd say me and duane are doing darn good to be only a couple seconds slower, lol.
You mentioned something about adjusting the clutch and losing traction... Do you have a centrifugal clutch? I hear these make a huge difference in racing machines.. They've actually just started really getting popular for Motorcycles (harleys) because of the reduced lever pull, and better holding power.
It would really help make sure you don't lose any power through the clutch once you've launched, and keep it from launching so hard as to force the tires to lose traction.
#22
11-14-2007, 10:02 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
ORIGINAL: FlynhghR
Oh, and to 86Ls.. if Duane takes insult from your little dragstergetting a better time then he's got problem. Lmao...
You're talking what, like 3000 pounds of difference and your little dragster with drag slicks, racing clutch, etc etc etc....
I'd say me and duane are doing darn good to be only a couple seconds slower, lol.
You mentioned something about adjusting the clutch and losing traction... Do you have a centrifugal clutch? I hear these make a huge difference in racing machines.. They've actually just started really getting popular for Motorcycles (harleys) because of the reduced lever pull, and better holding power.
It would really help make sure you don't lose any power through the clutch once you've launched, and keep it from launching so hard as to force the tires to lose traction.
Oh, and to 86Ls.. if Duane takes insult from your little dragstergetting a better time then he's got problem. Lmao...
You're talking what, like 3000 pounds of difference and your little dragster with drag slicks, racing clutch, etc etc etc....
I'd say me and duane are doing darn good to be only a couple seconds slower, lol.
You mentioned something about adjusting the clutch and losing traction... Do you have a centrifugal clutch? I hear these make a huge difference in racing machines.. They've actually just started really getting popular for Motorcycles (harleys) because of the reduced lever pull, and better holding power.
It would really help make sure you don't lose any power through the clutch once you've launched, and keep it from launching so hard as to force the tires to lose traction.
I was just giving him a little trouble. I've seen guys get pissed and go home over being beat by a little dragster. No, we can't race them, but time wise we got them by a mile.
About the weight, well lets see, I'm a good 155lbs+ 225lbs for the car/motor. I'm a whole 380lbs. But take it that I am running on a LITTLE 3.5 inch motor.Lmao.
Sorry if i offended you Duane.
Back on subject, 60' foot is where he needed to get you, if you wanted to run better. My 60' foots are usually 1.50's- 1.55. If this number were to go to a let's say 1.85, I wouldbe running WAY slower.Like you said you got himin the HP deparment, but that'snot all what matters in racing.
My carhas a centrifugal cluth off a snowmoble. It's called a polar.http://www.gagedengineering.com/ Here is where we get all our clutch related stuff. They are the best in the business as far as that goes. Now I will throw something out there that all you guys have on me and I hate to admit it. We have a good 10k in the car/motor/clutch. And I CAN'T drive mine on the road, I wish, but no. Hope you guys can get out to the track this year, if not first thing next.
#23
11-15-2007, 01:23 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
i diddn't choose the tires that came on my car.... they were on it when i bought it. they are Dayton Nationals, and in my opnino they are pretty crappy, they squel for anything.another thing i just rememebered was that our local drag strip was repaved last winter, so its a bit grippier than the average drag strip i guess, but i don't know when yours was last repaved.
#24
11-15-2007, 01:37 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
and mike, you know your reaction has nothing to do with your ET right.... they don't start timing you until your car rolls off the line, and they stop when you hit the next line. i think what helped my car was actually a lack of power so it held traction....
#25
11-15-2007, 01:43 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
[align=center]
[/align][align=center]`Duane, CowBoy,[/align][align=center]Check out the below on Reaction Time : )[/align][align=center][:-][/align]Beard's Reaction Time Clinic
[hr]
Disclaimer: While based on facts about drag racing, this page contains the personal views and opinions of one racer - Michael Beard
[hr]
[size=3]
In order to get good reaction times, we must understand the drag racer's worst enemy (besides himself), the Christmas Tree. It seems simple enough, but the starting line is often the bane of many a would-be racer. You should be comfortable with the reaction times before you worry about Top-End Tactics. Let's take a look at the anatomy of the tree, and then we'll take a look at the starting line to see how the two interact with each other, and with the driver and his car.
The tree is made up of three major parts. At the top of the tree, you see two sets of double yellow bulbs for each side of the tree (each lane). The top set is called the Pre-Stage bulbs. This is an indicator for the driver that he is approaching (and near) the starting line. The second set is called the Stage bulbs. They indicate that the driver is actually on the starting line, and presumably ready to race.
The next section is the three amber starting signals. In most bracket racing classes and Sportsman classes, these bulbs will light in sequence, a half-second apart. This is called a Full Tree. Some classes, however, use a Pro Tree. A Pro Tree will light all three ambers simultaneously, with a four-tenths of a second delay between them and the green light. We will concentrate just on the workings of the Full Tree.
The last two lights then, of course, are the green and red lights. The green will come on after the amber bulbs if the driver has not left the starting line too soon. Leaving the line before the green light will result in the dreaded red light... a foul start.
As we said earlier, a Full Tree counts down at half-second intervals. The cycle goes: Amber on, delay, amber off and next bulb on. Here's the important part. The reaction timer starts when the third amber comes on. Since there is a half-second (or .500 seconds) delay until the green light comes on, a .500 reaction time is perfect. (In the same way, the four tenths delay of the Pro Tree makes a .400 a perfect light on that one) Now, the reaction timer stops when the car leaves the starting line. To understand this better, we must examine the starting line, and how it relates to the Tree.
[hr]
The Starting Line
[b]The starting line is composed of two pair of photocells, one for each lane. The photocells detect your car when your tire interupts the light beam that crosses the lane. Tracks used to use bright lights and photocell receivers, but now many tracks are using the Compulink timing system which uses infrared beams. These beams are much better for drag racing. Drivers used to paint their wheels or put shoe polish on them to dull the bright, reflective surface. The old lights and photocell combination would sometimes pick up reflected light from the wheel, and then not "see" the tire. The infrared beams have no such problem. The timing system down the track uses a system of beams and reflectors, too. When the beam is complete (ie, the beam is reflected back to its origin), nothing is blocking it. When the cycle is broken, the beam has been interupted, and thus a tire has been sensed.[
ORIGINAL: Cowboy6622
and mike, you know your reaction has nothing to do with your ET right.... they don't start timing you until your car rolls off the line, and they stop when you hit the next line. i think what helped my car was actually a lack of power so it held traction....
and mike, you know your reaction has nothing to do with your ET right.... they don't start timing you until your car rolls off the line, and they stop when you hit the next line. i think what helped my car was actually a lack of power so it held traction....
[hr]
Disclaimer: While based on facts about drag racing, this page contains the personal views and opinions of one racer - Michael Beard
[hr]
[size=3]
In order to get good reaction times, we must understand the drag racer's worst enemy (besides himself), the Christmas Tree. It seems simple enough, but the starting line is often the bane of many a would-be racer. You should be comfortable with the reaction times before you worry about Top-End Tactics. Let's take a look at the anatomy of the tree, and then we'll take a look at the starting line to see how the two interact with each other, and with the driver and his car.
The tree is made up of three major parts. At the top of the tree, you see two sets of double yellow bulbs for each side of the tree (each lane). The top set is called the Pre-Stage bulbs. This is an indicator for the driver that he is approaching (and near) the starting line. The second set is called the Stage bulbs. They indicate that the driver is actually on the starting line, and presumably ready to race.
The next section is the three amber starting signals. In most bracket racing classes and Sportsman classes, these bulbs will light in sequence, a half-second apart. This is called a Full Tree. Some classes, however, use a Pro Tree. A Pro Tree will light all three ambers simultaneously, with a four-tenths of a second delay between them and the green light. We will concentrate just on the workings of the Full Tree.
The last two lights then, of course, are the green and red lights. The green will come on after the amber bulbs if the driver has not left the starting line too soon. Leaving the line before the green light will result in the dreaded red light... a foul start.
As we said earlier, a Full Tree counts down at half-second intervals. The cycle goes: Amber on, delay, amber off and next bulb on. Here's the important part. The reaction timer starts when the third amber comes on. Since there is a half-second (or .500 seconds) delay until the green light comes on, a .500 reaction time is perfect. (In the same way, the four tenths delay of the Pro Tree makes a .400 a perfect light on that one) Now, the reaction timer stops when the car leaves the starting line. To understand this better, we must examine the starting line, and how it relates to the Tree.
[hr]
The Starting Line
[b]The starting line is composed of two pair of photocells, one for each lane. The photocells detect your car when your tire interupts the light beam that crosses the lane. Tracks used to use bright lights and photocell receivers, but now many tracks are using the Compulink timing system which uses infrared beams. These beams are much better for drag racing. Drivers used to paint their wheels or put shoe polish on them to dull the bright, reflective surface. The old lights and photocell combination would sometimes pick up reflected light from the wheel, and then not "see" the tire. The infrared beams have no such problem. The timing system down the track uses a system of beams and reflectors, too. When the beam is complete (ie, the beam is reflected back to its origin), nothing is blocking it. When the cycle is broken, the beam has been interupted, and thus a tire has been sensed.[
#26
11-15-2007, 01:54 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
well space... as i was saying, the reaction time does not effect your ET. you can have a 10 second reaction and still get a good ET. the take off from the line does however. and btw, you are talking about an NHRA tree. we use what i believe is the IHRA tree, which means the reaction don't start until the green light comes on, and thus a .000 is a perfect reaction at Roxboro Dragway.
#27
11-15-2007, 02:03 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
[align=center]Duane,[/align][align=center]Reaction time may notmatter in time trials, but[/align][align=center]when you are racing another car, it means the first driver that reacts faster[/align][align=center]gets `off the line B-4 you.....[/align][align=center]If there were two identical cars at the line running the same times in the 1/4 mile,[/align][align=center]the one who has the better reaction time off the line, is the one that will win : )[/align][align=center](If you over/re-act [X(]U will get the Red Light) [X(][/align][align=center]The driver that reacts the fastest `off the line, is the one that's ahead : )[/align][align=center]I've seen cars that lost, and had a better ET, but their reaction time was slower[/align][align=center]then the winner.[/align][align=center]Don't want 2 fall asleep on the line : ) [
][8D][/align][align=center]"Think `bout `it " 
[/align][align=center][/align]
][8D][/align][align=center]"Think `bout `it " [/align][align=center][/align]
#28
11-15-2007, 02:07 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
Oh I know R/T means nothing to my time, I'm just saying I wish I was a bit quicker. Most of the ppl there were getting .2s to .3's... and I'd really like to reach that, so I wouldn't look like such a noob.
Your open exhaust would make the torque range move to the high side of the rpms... meaning less torqueon launchto make the tires want to break free. So I'm sure that definitely helped. You don't have a time from before the tune/exhaust do you? I'm only curious to see the different improvements in the different ranges.
Aftermarkettires reallyshould help in general, even if they don't seem like the best. Stockers are there mainly to last longer than the warranty, (many warranties, like Chevrolet's,still cover tires) and to make the car drive as comfortably as possible,without losing fuel efficiency. Aftermarket tires, even cheap high-mileage touring tires, usually surrender comfort for longevity, which actually can make them perform better than comfort-minded stock tiresin racing-type situations.
Your open exhaust would make the torque range move to the high side of the rpms... meaning less torqueon launchto make the tires want to break free. So I'm sure that definitely helped. You don't have a time from before the tune/exhaust do you? I'm only curious to see the different improvements in the different ranges.
Aftermarkettires reallyshould help in general, even if they don't seem like the best. Stockers are there mainly to last longer than the warranty, (many warranties, like Chevrolet's,still cover tires) and to make the car drive as comfortably as possible,without losing fuel efficiency. Aftermarket tires, even cheap high-mileage touring tires, usually surrender comfort for longevity, which actually can make them perform better than comfort-minded stock tiresin racing-type situations.
#29
11-15-2007, 02:33 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
well i've got a time before i retuned, its in the timeslips section to, i believe it was a 10.426 at about 68.7 or something. it was a much colder night, but my tires didn't seem to want to hook up on colder ashphault when they hooked up decently on a warmer day. i credit the .3 gain to retuning, my buddy on drag slicks actually ran a tenth slower than usual.
#30
11-15-2007, 02:48 PM
RE: My night at the drag strip (MUST READ)
ORIGINAL: Cowboy6622
well space... as i was saying, the reaction time does not effect your ET. you can have a 10 second reaction and still get a good ET. the take off from the line does however. and btw, you are talking about an NHRA tree. we use what i believe is the IHRA tree, which means the reaction don't start until the green light comes on, and thus a .000 is a perfect reaction at Roxboro Dragway.
well space... as i was saying, the reaction time does not effect your ET. you can have a 10 second reaction and still get a good ET. the take off from the line does however. and btw, you are talking about an NHRA tree. we use what i believe is the IHRA tree, which means the reaction don't start until the green light comes on, and thus a .000 is a perfect reaction at Roxboro Dragway.