Which type of paint?
#1
Which type of paint?
I'm looking to paint my entire Monte a new color. While comparing prices for a shop to paint vs. me jumping in and taking the time and doing the job myself, there are a few types of paints that are sold. So I ask which type of paint will hold up and look good?
Acrylic Lacquer
Acrylic Enamel
Acrylic Urethane
Urethane
Acrylic Lacquer
Acrylic Enamel
Acrylic Urethane
Urethane
#2
I'm looking to paint my entire Monte a new color. While comparing prices for a shop to paint vs. me jumping in and taking the time and doing the job myself, there are a few types of paints that are sold. So I ask which type of paint will hold up and look good?
Acrylic Lacquer
Acrylic Enamel
Acrylic Urethane
Urethane
Acrylic Lacquer
Acrylic Enamel
Acrylic Urethane
Urethane
Acrylic Lacquer: Old technology
Acrylic Enamel: Single Stage paint: doesn't have the shine and the U/V protection of a clear coat on top.
Acrylic Urethane: Single stage Paint: doesn't have the shine and the U/V protection of a clear coat on top.
Urethane: Base Coat/Clear Coat: What you have right now on your car. You have an increadable shine, U/V protection, and if it gets light scratches, it can be buffed out.
#3
IMO repainting a vehicle with anything but Urethane Basecoat/clearcoat is just a waste of time. BC/CC will give you the best looking, most durable paint job and the widest array of colors/shades/effects. If you are planing on doing it yourself I would recommend visiting a NAPA store that sells martin senor paints. They are a little more expensive but they can look up the code, match the color to your car or make you a new color, mix it, get you all the supplies necessary to prep for paint and spray the paint and help you with the exact procedure for spraying the products.
#6
it's going to be very hard to re-paint the car a different color.
The shop has to be VERY good, because they'll have to dismantle the car, so you don't have a great blue finish, then open the doors and see all the old colors, or pop the hood at a show and see the old brown. (it may even look like rust in comparison)
The shop has to be VERY good, because they'll have to dismantle the car, so you don't have a great blue finish, then open the doors and see all the old colors, or pop the hood at a show and see the old brown. (it may even look like rust in comparison)
#7
you can go single stage and clear coat too!! thats if u want a solid color like black (non pearl or metallic)
i do it all the time in our shop.. saves me a ton of time on the monday morning black, white, red and yellow bumper jobs.. though on a complete paint i would def go base/clear..
with single stage, if u get any problems in it like fish-eyes or runs your shagged for hours until it dries.. base coat just wait 20 mins and wetsand out
urathane single stage.. 2 coats of paint. 1 coat of clear
base/clear ... 2+ coats base. 2 coats clear
i do it all the time in our shop.. saves me a ton of time on the monday morning black, white, red and yellow bumper jobs.. though on a complete paint i would def go base/clear..
with single stage, if u get any problems in it like fish-eyes or runs your shagged for hours until it dries.. base coat just wait 20 mins and wetsand out
urathane single stage.. 2 coats of paint. 1 coat of clear
base/clear ... 2+ coats base. 2 coats clear
#8
it's going to be very hard to re-paint the car a different color.
The shop has to be VERY good, because they'll have to dismantle the car, so you don't have a great blue finish, then open the doors and see all the old colors, or pop the hood at a show and see the old brown. (it may even look like rust in comparison)
The shop has to be VERY good, because they'll have to dismantle the car, so you don't have a great blue finish, then open the doors and see all the old colors, or pop the hood at a show and see the old brown. (it may even look like rust in comparison)
I know it's going to be one heck of a time to paint the whole car. I'm thinking of taking a week off from work, turn the garage into a body shop for that week and just do a complete tear down and repaint. Or just take the bumpers and fenders off and just repaint the same color. Either way I have to take the fenders off cause I bought some crappy chains during the winter and they broke one day and tore up the inner fenders guards and caused dents on the outside of the fender and need to fix that.
#9
depending where you are it will either be best urethane or waterbourne
always, i mean ALWAYS shell out for the basecoat clear coat. single stage just isnt as quality as bc/cc
depending on the system it could be 2-3 coats solvent paint and at least 3 coats of clear. waterbourne covers in at most 2 coats. 3 coats of clear at the least. give the detailer some working space when they cut an buff your whip to perfection
always, i mean ALWAYS shell out for the basecoat clear coat. single stage just isnt as quality as bc/cc
depending on the system it could be 2-3 coats solvent paint and at least 3 coats of clear. waterbourne covers in at most 2 coats. 3 coats of clear at the least. give the detailer some working space when they cut an buff your whip to perfection
Last edited by silver1; 08-21-2009 at 07:42 PM.
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