Need painting expertise
#1
Need painting expertise
Hey everyone, so recently I painted my engine cover as well as my strut support bars. And I have to say, I really enjoy painting. I was thinking of buying a paint gun (already have a pretty decent compressor) and maybe getting into painting a bit more and maybe start doing it as a hobby or something like that. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone knows of a pretty decent gun that isn't like crazy expensive? I found these and thought this looked like a pretty good deal for someone who is just starting out but looking to get better, DeVilbiss StartingLine: HVLP Auto Paint and Priming Gun System
Has anyone heard of this brand? The reviews seem pretty good on it. Also, If I get a gun or, in the case of the link I linked, 2 guns then I plan on painting my ground effects rather then take it somewhere to do. I have rock chips all over the ground effects in the front, would it be difficult to sand that down and prime it and paint it? I did my engine cover and took it from the rough plastic and filler primed it and sanded it, and it turned out very very smooth. I would think this would be the same since it is just plastic. And with a gun, I would also think that I would get a better finish then if I used rattle cans. Anyway, any information from you guys would be much appreciated.
Has anyone heard of this brand? The reviews seem pretty good on it. Also, If I get a gun or, in the case of the link I linked, 2 guns then I plan on painting my ground effects rather then take it somewhere to do. I have rock chips all over the ground effects in the front, would it be difficult to sand that down and prime it and paint it? I did my engine cover and took it from the rough plastic and filler primed it and sanded it, and it turned out very very smooth. I would think this would be the same since it is just plastic. And with a gun, I would also think that I would get a better finish then if I used rattle cans. Anyway, any information from you guys would be much appreciated.
#2
For small parts like you describe sure but the startingline kit is not a good choice for anyone who wants to really get into paint and expect show car results IMO so don't get your hopes up on major refinish jobs. You will also need some moisture control mounted properly away from the compressor. For bare plastic you need to be cleaning well and after scuffing use a plastic adhesion promoter like bull dog. Then follow with a reduced epoxy or urethane sealer followed with your color and/or clear all wet on wet if feasible. Confused yet?
#3
I would get this setup in your case....
DeVILBISS FLG-670 FLG-4 Gravity Feed Spray Gun
Later you can get a dedicated clear gun for the smoothest finishes. Just depends on your feel for the need and budget.
DeVILBISS FLG-670 FLG-4 Gravity Feed Spray Gun
Later you can get a dedicated clear gun for the smoothest finishes. Just depends on your feel for the need and budget.
#4
For small parts like you describe sure but the startingline kit is not a good choice for anyone who wants to really get into paint and expect show car results IMO so don't get your hopes up on major refinish jobs. You will also need some moisture control mounted properly away from the compressor. For bare plastic you need to be cleaning well and after scuffing use a plastic adhesion promoter like bull dog. Then follow with a reduced epoxy or urethane sealer followed with your color and/or clear all wet on wet if feasible. Confused yet?
#5
There is also a flex coat finish for bumpers and hoods that Mason Auto body used on the Deuce it reduces the rock ships and bug scars because it has a slight flex to it, I believe it is considered a type of clear coat
#6
If you are spraying single stage urethane paints, you should have a self contained respirator set up that supplies fresh air rather than just breathing through a filter. The isocyanates that cure the paint are a class of chemical called sensitizers. People develop allergies to them to the point where they cannot be exposed. The symptoms are similar to asthma. I know a few painters who were "old school" and didn't change their respirator systems when these paints came out. Now they can no longer paint.
#7
You need supplied air or a respirator with Organic Vapor Class. The full face will protect your eyes. I have used plain respirators for years. Still do. I don't paint production all day every day so this is my choice. Depending on where you shop expect to pay 20-40 bucks. For a respirator. Hope this helped and PM ME IF YA LIKE.
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