New 83 monte!!!
#15
06-22-2010 | 01:58 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
WOW!!!! Awesome Monte Carlo, Buk ... WELCOME!
Cort | 36.m.IL | 5 Monte Carlos.1 Caprice Classic | pig valve.pacemaker * 07/24/2010=ChitownMeet #3 *
MCs.CC | models.HO.legos.CHD.RadioShows | RoadTrips.us66 = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort
"Can money pay for all the days I lived awake but half asleep?" ... Primitive Radio Gods ... 'Standing Outside A Broken Phone Booth With Money In My Hand'
Cort | 36.m.IL | 5 Monte Carlos.1 Caprice Classic | pig valve.pacemaker * 07/24/2010=ChitownMeet #3 *
MCs.CC | models.HO.legos.CHD.RadioShows | RoadTrips.us66 = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort
"Can money pay for all the days I lived awake but half asleep?" ... Primitive Radio Gods ... 'Standing Outside A Broken Phone Booth With Money In My Hand'
#17
06-22-2010 | 08:13 AM
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 47
From: ohio
Thanks guys!
I have been putting alot of hours into her after class, which is after work (long days ><) but i have ran into a problem I would like to fix without just throwing money at it.
She has a mollorey ign but it was kind of "Hacked" together and hidden by wire looms (not by me!). When the car puts a good load on the electrical system she wants to quit. I thought because shes got dual 20 amp elec fans and an electric fuel pump (unknown amperage). I had my alternator rebuilt and it benched just over 80 amps. Is it possible its not drawing 80> amps because of those components but, just that somewhere they hacked into the ign wire and its drawing current that should be going to the coil, or something like that? Mollory ign num is 29440. Found it and read the electrical schematics, not much help tho.
Some of the more specific symtoms are:
1) rough idle/misses after a few minutes of idleing
2) upon adding andother electrical load the car wants to stall at lower rpms (even while moving)
example: fuel pump, fans, and car running once turing on, even turn signal or brake lights, the car will "bog down" and stall if rpms are not braught back up.
3) while hooked to the 12v battery charger symtoms seem to lesson if not dissapear. (only while idleing)
4) while driving symtoms are not present until the car is coasting or almost coasting and stopping/stopped.
Thank you to all who take the time to read this and especially to the ones who reply. Hoping to maybe solve this problem without buying a $150 or more alternator.
~UPDATE~ fixed it last night, turns out the guy who installed the ignition coil and distributor doesn't read very well/at all, he had the 12v hot for the distributor comming off of the 12v connection on the coil. This does not work becuase it requires a ballast resistor to drop the incomming voltage to the coil, (~8 volts) which isnt enough to full run the distributor. Moving this connection to the supply side of the ballast resistor solved all my problems! Thanks to anyone who read the full explanation.
I have been putting alot of hours into her after class, which is after work (long days ><) but i have ran into a problem I would like to fix without just throwing money at it.
She has a mollorey ign but it was kind of "Hacked" together and hidden by wire looms (not by me!). When the car puts a good load on the electrical system she wants to quit. I thought because shes got dual 20 amp elec fans and an electric fuel pump (unknown amperage). I had my alternator rebuilt and it benched just over 80 amps. Is it possible its not drawing 80> amps because of those components but, just that somewhere they hacked into the ign wire and its drawing current that should be going to the coil, or something like that? Mollory ign num is 29440. Found it and read the electrical schematics, not much help tho.
Some of the more specific symtoms are:
1) rough idle/misses after a few minutes of idleing
2) upon adding andother electrical load the car wants to stall at lower rpms (even while moving)
example: fuel pump, fans, and car running once turing on, even turn signal or brake lights, the car will "bog down" and stall if rpms are not braught back up.
3) while hooked to the 12v battery charger symtoms seem to lesson if not dissapear. (only while idleing)
4) while driving symtoms are not present until the car is coasting or almost coasting and stopping/stopped.
Thank you to all who take the time to read this and especially to the ones who reply. Hoping to maybe solve this problem without buying a $150 or more alternator.
~UPDATE~ fixed it last night, turns out the guy who installed the ignition coil and distributor doesn't read very well/at all, he had the 12v hot for the distributor comming off of the 12v connection on the coil. This does not work becuase it requires a ballast resistor to drop the incomming voltage to the coil, (~8 volts) which isnt enough to full run the distributor. Moving this connection to the supply side of the ballast resistor solved all my problems! Thanks to anyone who read the full explanation.
Last edited by Buknasty; 06-23-2010 at 08:58 AM. Reason: Fixed!!
#19
07-26-2010 | 12:49 PM
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 47
From: ohio
i fixed her problems by the way...
stalling was contributed to the +12v for the distributor was pulled from the + on the coil which has ballast resistor. this supplied the distributor with only 8 volts or less.
also replaced the fuel pump with a Holley red and that has fixed all of her drive ability issues.
stalling was contributed to the +12v for the distributor was pulled from the + on the coil which has ballast resistor. this supplied the distributor with only 8 volts or less.
also replaced the fuel pump with a Holley red and that has fixed all of her drive ability issues.
