First off i just installed the thrasher shift kit about a week ago. I was driving yesterday and i went to pass a truck, when the car shifted into OD, the engine went to about 4,500 rpm-5000rpm, but nothing went to the wheels and i barely maintained speed if not lost it. after this its been shifting at odd points and theres general power loss at all rpms and the same issue of no power at 4500 rpm+. Ive hear it could be anything from my torque converter to the belts. I dunno what to expect when taking it in and if an overhaul will fix it or if ill need a whole new tranny. Worst off i was on my way to the drag strip

 

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Transmission & Driveline

Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) and the connections at the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector. Failure of the Transmission PCS is identified in TSB # 00-07-30-002B. Failure of the connections at the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector is identified in TSB # 02-07-30-022B. The cost to repair the Transmission PCS is estimated at $45.61 for parts and $273.00 for labor. The cost to repair the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector is estimated at $10.00 for parts and $65.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax[/align][align=center][:-]Click below link [:-][/align][align=center]http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=2000&make=Chevrolet& model=Monte%20Carlo[/align]

 

i would imagine its caused from the shift kit, i've never heard anyone putting a shift kit on their monte, so i can't speak from experience, but if its happening since you put that kit on i would take it off and return it defective, say it doesn't work right

 

the kit worked great and it didnt start until after about a week of installation. The car still shifts fine for the most part. The car has 105000 + miles. the kit was set for maximum stiffness, which ive been told can be a strain on the brake belts and clutch.

 

well, i took it to a transmission specialist, who said it wasnt the transmission at all (thank god) but a performance problem as theres the general power loss and essentially none at WOT and a slight pinging. I replaced the fuel filter thinking maybe it was backed up but that didnt fix it at all. Im unsure what the problem is now. Maybe the cat went bad.... i wouldnt want to drop the cash and have that not fix the problem though and wouldnt the O2 sensor send a warning light (which none are showing)?

 

[align=center]Hi `Kent, I was happy to read it's not the transmission.[/align][align=center]I think there's a way to test the `Cat...I'm sure a member that knows will post.[/align][align=center]Below is another problem that was listed on MSN Auto in ref. to the 3.8[/align][align=center]Good Luck[/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align]

 

Im taking it in tomorrow to have the back pressure tested which should reveal if the Cat is bad, my exhast guy said the problem sounded familiar as a few montes have come in with the same symptoms and tons of impalas. My vehile summary i got from a dealership doesnt show that the recall has been fixed on my vehicle i may have to check on that. thanks

 

From what I understand quite the opposite. The softer shifts are basically due to slippage in the bands and clutches. The firmer shifts a shift kit gives eliminats the slippage and assuming there are not issues to begin with can extend the life of the friction mat'ls. A shift kit in an ailing trans will make it worse.

 

Alright, it was the cat which was completely burnt out and was pushing the back pressure off the gauge. I had it replaced with a magnaflow which fixed the power loss and made it loud as hell. But it was burnt out because the engine is running super lean. Could that be the fuel pressure regulator or one of the sensors? if so which one?

 

I had the same lean condition after replacing the cat. The problem persisted and after replacing the fuel pump, filter, and regulator I took it back to my mechanic because the ABS/traction control lights were on. He scanned it and found a code for the upstream o2 sensor too (this is after 6 months and no check engine light). He replaced the o2 sensor as well as the right rear hub assembly (for the ABS/TRAC light) and it seems to have fixed the lean condition problem. The o2 sensor was really burnt. My guess is because of the plugged cat. Not sure why it didn't trip the check engine light.