7th Gen ('06-'07): Vibration while accelerating?
#1
02-19-2015, 08:46 PM
Vibration while accelerating?
Hi Everybody,
I have a vibration, doesn't feel good. It's most noticeable at highway speed, while accelerating. Seems to be coming from front right.
When I turn a right corner the vibration goes away completely, worse when accelerating on a left curve, like an on-ramp to the highway.
I looked at lugs and wheel weights, nothing has moved or come loose.
I also had a creaking/crunching noise a couple times when stating from a stop, but I couldn't get it to repeat it when I tried.
Has anybody else ever had this problem?
Or any ideas what to look at?
It's an 06 SS with 246,000 km's on it.
Braking is fine. We have an overabundance of potholes with the winter we've had.
I had the axles replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt, 2 years ago. Had tie rods replaced last fall.
I have a vibration, doesn't feel good. It's most noticeable at highway speed, while accelerating. Seems to be coming from front right.
When I turn a right corner the vibration goes away completely, worse when accelerating on a left curve, like an on-ramp to the highway.
I looked at lugs and wheel weights, nothing has moved or come loose.
I also had a creaking/crunching noise a couple times when stating from a stop, but I couldn't get it to repeat it when I tried.
Has anybody else ever had this problem?
Or any ideas what to look at?
It's an 06 SS with 246,000 km's on it.
Braking is fine. We have an overabundance of potholes with the winter we've had.
I had the axles replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt, 2 years ago. Had tie rods replaced last fall.
#2
02-20-2015, 07:27 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Brockville Ontario
Posts: 3,052
Hey Tom,
I am dealing with a very similar problem at the moment with my car. It shakes from about 50kms up when accelerating but as soon as I let off the gas it smooths out. I replaced the driver side axle, as I took the advice from Canadian Tire's fine mechanics lol, and it didn't fix the problem, I then had all the tires checked and re balanced and nothing improved, all of my suspension is fairly new in the front end and I began researching on line, turns out the vibration in my car is being caused by the inner cv joints, the outer cv joints will cause the sound that you are referring too.
My best guess without driving your car to see if it is the same problem as mine is that you need a new axle on the passenger side. They are $124 after tax at Partsource (picked one up for my car today) and I think most auto shops will charge the same amount. I will update tomorrow night if it fixed my problem as I am tearing it down tomorrow morning and then driving to Toronto to pick up some rims and tires so I will know if it is fixed or not lol
Should note, I replaced the passenger side axle in my car about 2 years ago as well, which is why I didn't think it was the problem at first
I am dealing with a very similar problem at the moment with my car. It shakes from about 50kms up when accelerating but as soon as I let off the gas it smooths out. I replaced the driver side axle, as I took the advice from Canadian Tire's fine mechanics lol, and it didn't fix the problem, I then had all the tires checked and re balanced and nothing improved, all of my suspension is fairly new in the front end and I began researching on line, turns out the vibration in my car is being caused by the inner cv joints, the outer cv joints will cause the sound that you are referring too.
My best guess without driving your car to see if it is the same problem as mine is that you need a new axle on the passenger side. They are $124 after tax at Partsource (picked one up for my car today) and I think most auto shops will charge the same amount. I will update tomorrow night if it fixed my problem as I am tearing it down tomorrow morning and then driving to Toronto to pick up some rims and tires so I will know if it is fixed or not lol
Should note, I replaced the passenger side axle in my car about 2 years ago as well, which is why I didn't think it was the problem at first
#3
02-20-2015, 09:19 PM
Ohara, don't mean to Nit Pick but how can you replace an axle without replacing both inner and outer cv axles. When I replaced mine it was all one piece.
I just want to know for future reference!
Tom, how are you?
I had this problem about a year ago. The bearings in the inner CV joint are Pin bearings. If you loose the boot integrity, can loose some of the pins. The inner CV joint is there so that the wheels can move up and down without effecting the transmission.
I agree with Ohara, replace your CV axle and your problem will be solved!
I just want to know for future reference!
Tom, how are you?
I had this problem about a year ago. The bearings in the inner CV joint are Pin bearings. If you loose the boot integrity, can loose some of the pins. The inner CV joint is there so that the wheels can move up and down without effecting the transmission.
I agree with Ohara, replace your CV axle and your problem will be solved!
#5
02-20-2015, 09:59 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Brockville Ontario
Posts: 3,052
If you want to replace the cv joint here is the procedure, but for the amount of work involved it is just easier to replace the entire axle. A new boot costs money and will need to be replaced when doing the procedure so you also have to factor that into the cost. When a new axle is only $124 it doesn't really add up to too much more for the new axle plus you get a new outer cv joint as well, and two new boots.
The general procedure goes as follows:
1. Loosen the axle hub nut with the wheel on the ground using a breaker bar or torque wrench. An impact wrench should not be used because the hammering can damage an otherwise good CV joint as well as the differential gears in the transaxle. The brakes should be applied to keep the car from rocking. On vehicles where the hub nut has been staked to hold it in position, DO NOT attempt to unstake the nut. Just turn it off.
NOTE: Most vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing the axle hub nut. Once used, the nut loses its ability to retain torque. So the old nut should be discarded and replaced with a new one.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it under the chassis crossmember or side rails so the front suspension can hang free. The wheel can now be removed.
3. What comes next depends on how the inner CV joint is attached to the transaxle:
If the joint is bolted to a stub shaft (such as the cross groove Rzeppa joint found on many imports), disconnect the inner CV joint first and then separate the outer joint from the steering knuckle hub. On many GM applications, the inboard CV joint stub shaft is retained in the differential gear by a circlip (except on the left hand side of automatics). To pull the shaft out, a special slide hammer axle puller tool is needed.
If the inner joint "plugs into" the transaxle and the stub shaft is part of the joint housing (tripod plunge joint and double-offset Rzeppa joints) the outer joint must be disconnected from the steering knuckle before the inner joint can be pulled out of the transaxle.
To separate the outer CV joint from the knuckle, one end of the knuckle (the lower ball joint or the MacPherson strut) must be disconnected so there will be enough clearance to push the outer CV stub shaft back through the knuckle.
On those applications where it is easiest to disconnect the knuckle from the strut (GM for example) it will be necessary to disconnect the brake hose clip and to remove the brake caliper from its mount.
On applications where disconnecting the ball joint is the path of least resistance (Ford and Chrysler for example) it may also be necessary to disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm and/or the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
Once the knuckle is free to swing out, the end of the halfshaft can be pushed back through the wheel hub (a puller may be needed for this step). DO NOT pound on the end of the shaft as doing so may damage the wheel bearings, the splines in the hub, the differential gears or either CV joint.
As soon as the end of the shaft is free, DO NOT let it hang. Support it with a piece of wire until the inboard joint can be removed or unbolted from the transaxle. Allowing the halfshaft to hang or pulling on it will pull the inboard joint apart.
Installing the shaft is just the reverse. Once everything is back together and the wheel is in place, the lug nuts and hub nut should be installed and tightened to specifications using a torque wrench (not an impact gun unless torque limiting sockets are used).
The general procedure goes as follows:
1. Loosen the axle hub nut with the wheel on the ground using a breaker bar or torque wrench. An impact wrench should not be used because the hammering can damage an otherwise good CV joint as well as the differential gears in the transaxle. The brakes should be applied to keep the car from rocking. On vehicles where the hub nut has been staked to hold it in position, DO NOT attempt to unstake the nut. Just turn it off.
NOTE: Most vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing the axle hub nut. Once used, the nut loses its ability to retain torque. So the old nut should be discarded and replaced with a new one.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it under the chassis crossmember or side rails so the front suspension can hang free. The wheel can now be removed.
3. What comes next depends on how the inner CV joint is attached to the transaxle:
If the joint is bolted to a stub shaft (such as the cross groove Rzeppa joint found on many imports), disconnect the inner CV joint first and then separate the outer joint from the steering knuckle hub. On many GM applications, the inboard CV joint stub shaft is retained in the differential gear by a circlip (except on the left hand side of automatics). To pull the shaft out, a special slide hammer axle puller tool is needed.
If the inner joint "plugs into" the transaxle and the stub shaft is part of the joint housing (tripod plunge joint and double-offset Rzeppa joints) the outer joint must be disconnected from the steering knuckle before the inner joint can be pulled out of the transaxle.
To separate the outer CV joint from the knuckle, one end of the knuckle (the lower ball joint or the MacPherson strut) must be disconnected so there will be enough clearance to push the outer CV stub shaft back through the knuckle.
On those applications where it is easiest to disconnect the knuckle from the strut (GM for example) it will be necessary to disconnect the brake hose clip and to remove the brake caliper from its mount.
On applications where disconnecting the ball joint is the path of least resistance (Ford and Chrysler for example) it may also be necessary to disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm and/or the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
Once the knuckle is free to swing out, the end of the halfshaft can be pushed back through the wheel hub (a puller may be needed for this step). DO NOT pound on the end of the shaft as doing so may damage the wheel bearings, the splines in the hub, the differential gears or either CV joint.
As soon as the end of the shaft is free, DO NOT let it hang. Support it with a piece of wire until the inboard joint can be removed or unbolted from the transaxle. Allowing the halfshaft to hang or pulling on it will pull the inboard joint apart.
Installing the shaft is just the reverse. Once everything is back together and the wheel is in place, the lug nuts and hub nut should be installed and tightened to specifications using a torque wrench (not an impact gun unless torque limiting sockets are used).
#6
02-20-2015, 10:14 PM
I don't know if you guys have Pep Boys in your areas, but I only payed $65 for mine, and they come with a lifetime Warranty. They even had it in stock.
When I got my Trans rebuilt they found that the clap on the inner CV boot had busted. Aka bad cv axle. I had replaced it 10 months before. At any rate, I took it back to Pep Boys, they looked up my purchase, got another one out of stock and gave it to me. That's when I found out the axle, at least from Pep Boys, has a Lifetime Warranty. Well worth the $65 I paid for them!
When I got my Trans rebuilt they found that the clap on the inner CV boot had busted. Aka bad cv axle. I had replaced it 10 months before. At any rate, I took it back to Pep Boys, they looked up my purchase, got another one out of stock and gave it to me. That's when I found out the axle, at least from Pep Boys, has a Lifetime Warranty. Well worth the $65 I paid for them!
#7
02-21-2015, 06:29 AM
Hi Everybody,
I have a vibration, doesn't feel good. It's most noticeable at highway speed, while accelerating. Seems to be coming from front right.
When I turn a right corner the vibration goes away completely, worse when accelerating on a left curve, like an on-ramp to the highway.
I looked at lugs and wheel weights, nothing has moved or come loose.
I also had a creaking/crunching noise a couple times when stating from a stop, but I couldn't get it to repeat it when I tried.
Has anybody else ever had this problem?
Or any ideas what to look at?
It's an 06 SS with 246,000 km's on it.
Braking is fine. We have an overabundance of potholes with the winter we've had.
I had the axles replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt, 2 years ago. Had tie rods replaced last fall.
I have a vibration, doesn't feel good. It's most noticeable at highway speed, while accelerating. Seems to be coming from front right.
When I turn a right corner the vibration goes away completely, worse when accelerating on a left curve, like an on-ramp to the highway.
I looked at lugs and wheel weights, nothing has moved or come loose.
I also had a creaking/crunching noise a couple times when stating from a stop, but I couldn't get it to repeat it when I tried.
Has anybody else ever had this problem?
Or any ideas what to look at?
It's an 06 SS with 246,000 km's on it.
Braking is fine. We have an overabundance of potholes with the winter we've had.
I had the axles replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt, 2 years ago. Had tie rods replaced last fall.
Let me help you to understand this a little better:
Lets say yesterday you went for a good drive (1-2 hrs) car got up to full temperature and such. Today it is in the minus temperatures, you start your car and drive away slowly allowing the car to warm up. You have a feeling of what they call square tires or flat spot tires for a while and it seems to go away as you drive. Well with our cars (ls4) the trans produce a lot of heat even though the trans temp is reading a given temp it is not giving the temp of your inner cv joints. If you were to crawl under the car after a long drive and hold the inner cv joint it would burn you. So with this happening the sealed boot allows the grease in the cv joint to turn to a liquid, during cool down it condensates inside and over time there is an accumulation of this water. This in turn causes the grease to freeze and thus causing the square tire feeling until it is warmed up again. If you were to remove the larger clamp on the cv joint while hot the grease would pour out as a milky oil and once it was finished running you could simply put a handful of fresh cv joint grease in the boot , re-seal the clamp and be on your way. Point of this there are too many people changing out driveshaft assemblies simply because the grease is contaminated. If it was the outer joint making noise then yes change the assembly.
#8
02-21-2015, 07:26 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Brockville Ontario
Posts: 3,052
I changed my axle today and the problem is solved 
it has a lifetime warranty on it as well, so if it happens again I get a free replacement. Ill_Born_SS' advice may be correct as well, but I also knew I had a bad boot, to boot (pardon the pun lol) so for the price of a new boot and the amount of time and labour to either change the grease or potentially change the cv joint, it only took a total of 40 minutes to put the car up and change the axle, which is part of why I chose to go that route, but Tom it should fix your problem with whichever method you decide to go
it has a lifetime warranty on it as well, so if it happens again I get a free replacement. Ill_Born_SS' advice may be correct as well, but I also knew I had a bad boot, to boot (pardon the pun lol) so for the price of a new boot and the amount of time and labour to either change the grease or potentially change the cv joint, it only took a total of 40 minutes to put the car up and change the axle, which is part of why I chose to go that route, but Tom it should fix your problem with whichever method you decide to go
#9
02-21-2015, 07:29 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Brockville Ontario
Posts: 3,052
I don't know if you guys have Pep Boys in your areas, but I only payed $65 for mine, and they come with a lifetime Warranty. They even had it in stock.
When I got my Trans rebuilt they found that the clap on the inner CV boot had busted. Aka bad cv axle. I had replaced it 10 months before. At any rate, I took it back to Pep Boys, they looked up my purchase, got another one out of stock and gave it to me. That's when I found out the axle, at least from Pep Boys, has a Lifetime Warranty. Well worth the $65 I paid for them!
When I got my Trans rebuilt they found that the clap on the inner CV boot had busted. Aka bad cv axle. I had replaced it 10 months before. At any rate, I took it back to Pep Boys, they looked up my purchase, got another one out of stock and gave it to me. That's when I found out the axle, at least from Pep Boys, has a Lifetime Warranty. Well worth the $65 I paid for them!
You guys always get cheaper parts south of our border
but right now our dollar is worth like 75 cents, if that lol, so the higher prices are to be expected, I checked out a new axle on zzp and it was $89.99 and by the time I did the exchange and shipping it was cheaper just to go to my local parts store and pick one up, plus I also get the lifetime warranty which is nice peace of mind in case it happens again in the future. The actual price was $110 but then you have to add the taxes which is why it was $124, but in the end my car is back to new again so I am happy
#10
02-23-2015, 11:28 PM
I took Monte in this morning. Got a call within a couple hours. It's not just one axle, the other one is bad as well. They don't rebuild them.
Plus, the one that's really bad on passenger side has ruined the bushing and seal on the transmission end as well. (apparently, I should have stopped driving it as soon as the vibration started, but I had places to go
Parts will be in tomorrow, so, if all goes well, I'll get it back end of day tomorrow. $855 plus tax
I think I'm gonna have to rename the car to 'The Money Pit'
Plus, the one that's really bad on passenger side has ruined the bushing and seal on the transmission end as well. (apparently, I should have stopped driving it as soon as the vibration started, but I had places to go
Parts will be in tomorrow, so, if all goes well, I'll get it back end of day tomorrow. $855 plus tax
I think I'm gonna have to rename the car to 'The Money Pit'