Tranny problems...I think
#14
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pretty much any auto parts store
part # is 01320 and i sell it for 9.99 cdn..so it should be chaper, and if its sold by a case i sell it for 8.99
i think our cars take 7.5 quarts if completely flushed so you wouldn't need a case, but just dont pay too much for it
part # is 01320 and i sell it for 9.99 cdn..so it should be chaper, and if its sold by a case i sell it for 8.99
i think our cars take 7.5 quarts if completely flushed so you wouldn't need a case, but just dont pay too much for it
#16
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Well, so much for the thermostat being the reason for my hard shifts.
It's shifting hard again...back to the drawing board.
Once the car gets hot and is driven for a while...it starts to shift hard into gears. Anyone have any clues? maybe the Torque Converter?
It's shifting hard again...back to the drawing board.
Once the car gets hot and is driven for a while...it starts to shift hard into gears. Anyone have any clues? maybe the Torque Converter?
#17
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The tranny shop told me that it may be a bad valve in the valve body or a bad accumulator piston.
Then my father-in-law mechanic said that something probably got stuck in there and it caused the high pressure causing the hard shifts.
Even though yours is still doing it, it may be that there is some junk in the tranny fluid. It wasn't a complete flush, so maybe there was some that still is in there. Is it constantly shifting hard or does it stop after letting it sit a bit (5-10 minutes)? Does it shift into overdrive? If it shifts into overdrive, it's probably not the torque converter.
I did find on google that there is some solenoid that controls the shifts and it sometimes goes out on these tranny's (4T65-E). Have you taken it to autozone or something to get your computer checked for codes? Have you checked your tranny fluid? Did it smell burnt or have bubbles?
I'm also guessing that it's probably going to happen to me again soon. How long did it last in between? I found a garage I can borrow and I'm changing my fluid tomorrow.
Then my father-in-law mechanic said that something probably got stuck in there and it caused the high pressure causing the hard shifts.
Even though yours is still doing it, it may be that there is some junk in the tranny fluid. It wasn't a complete flush, so maybe there was some that still is in there. Is it constantly shifting hard or does it stop after letting it sit a bit (5-10 minutes)? Does it shift into overdrive? If it shifts into overdrive, it's probably not the torque converter.
I did find on google that there is some solenoid that controls the shifts and it sometimes goes out on these tranny's (4T65-E). Have you taken it to autozone or something to get your computer checked for codes? Have you checked your tranny fluid? Did it smell burnt or have bubbles?
I'm also guessing that it's probably going to happen to me again soon. How long did it last in between? I found a garage I can borrow and I'm changing my fluid tomorrow.
#18
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I never got a chance to change my fluid today because of being sick. When I was going to get some flu medication, the car started the hard shift again. I looked all over the internet and apparently these tranny's aren't that great. I'd have to say though that 80% of the stuff I found said that the PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid)was the problem. It sucks though because that is really hard to get to.
#19
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wonderful.
Looks like Aamco is gonna get a few bills out of me this time. Unless I just deal with it.
BTW, yes, it shifts hard after I drive it a while...but if I let it sit for about 10-15 minutes, it seems to work ok again.
I just had a nice little surprise a few days ago...I noticed that my brake rotor had a nice deep gash in it from the brakes. I just changed these things 2 years ago and I got the car inspected 8 months ago with no issues.
Needless to say, I got stuck yesterday replacing a driver's side brake rotor and brake pads. The rotor was $25 and the pads were $37 (went with the ceramic...got tired of all the dust on my rims).
Yep...after 80k miles it seems that everything starts to go.
Looks like Aamco is gonna get a few bills out of me this time. Unless I just deal with it.
BTW, yes, it shifts hard after I drive it a while...but if I let it sit for about 10-15 minutes, it seems to work ok again.
I just had a nice little surprise a few days ago...I noticed that my brake rotor had a nice deep gash in it from the brakes. I just changed these things 2 years ago and I got the car inspected 8 months ago with no issues.
Needless to say, I got stuck yesterday replacing a driver's side brake rotor and brake pads. The rotor was $25 and the pads were $37 (went with the ceramic...got tired of all the dust on my rims).
Yep...after 80k miles it seems that everything starts to go.
#20
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I've found out that what is happening is that either your the PCS is working and it's detecting slip (most likely mechanical failure) and telling the computer to increase pump pressure or the PCS is sending erratic signals to the computer and the computer increases the pump pressure. I'm guessing yours is probably the PCS. There usually is a trouble code with those, but it won't throw the SES light. Some scanners won't pick it up, but I would try autozone and see if they can find the code.
Mine just happened tonight again. I was driving for about 30 minutes and I shut it off to get gas and restarted it and it occured over about 1 mile. I parked, shut it off for about 1 minute and it stopped. I'm going to O'reilly's tomorrow to have it checked out. I'll post after I find something out. If I don't get a code, I think I'm going to get one of those flushes where they hook the machine up to the cooler line. That way it will be complete fluid exchange.
Where did the gash come from on the rotor? Brakes just needed replacing or did it wear unevenly?
Mine just happened tonight again. I was driving for about 30 minutes and I shut it off to get gas and restarted it and it occured over about 1 mile. I parked, shut it off for about 1 minute and it stopped. I'm going to O'reilly's tomorrow to have it checked out. I'll post after I find something out. If I don't get a code, I think I'm going to get one of those flushes where they hook the machine up to the cooler line. That way it will be complete fluid exchange.
Where did the gash come from on the rotor? Brakes just needed replacing or did it wear unevenly?