I was just driving and my trac off and service traction system light came on. Could this be because I need to replace my brakes I know that they are gettin bad.

 

That would be the wheel hub assembly most likely, check out threads on that.

 

is there a way to reset the light i put it on a scanner at school and no codes came up, and my wheel hub is good im thinking it could be the sending unit.. But if theres a way to reset it do you know how

 

You need the GMTech2 reader for the ABS codes, a normal OBDII scanner won't read anything.

Every wheel has its own hub, just check all the connections

 

yeah i got this exact same issue and i heard about peoples results and what they did. people have this problem and i dont think its the hubs. I read somewhere that there was a ground under the hood that allways goes bad and kind find that thread anymore for the life of me. someone else said they tried the ground and it fixed there problem. Anyone got any info??

 

Bottom of the stock air box is a ground wire I believe.

 

8 out of 10 times its a sensor gone bad in the hub. the whole hub must be replaced and codes need reset. 100


sometimes you can just look at the wires and connections for fraying or corrosion. 100

very rarely its the abs pump. 100 on morads

GL and its a shame there are so many of these gone bad on w bodys. maybe if more ppl told there local dealer or called the 1800 number, this would be taken care of.

 

gm's are notorious for bad wheel bearings i change at least 2 per week in my shop for the same problem. i did one in my own car in december. a tech 2 is by far the best scanner for any gm since it only works with them, but other scanners can read abs codes and data unless it is a CAN communications vehicle. in that case the tech 2 is going to be the only one to give you the complete story. the wheel speed sensor is an integral part of the wheel hub/wheel bearing, and is easily damaged by water intrusion. example is just everyday driving in the rain or driving through a big puddle. thats all it takes. sometimes the wiring harness rubs through but its almost always a wheel bearing.
an easy way to test this is with a digital multimeter is to set your car up on axle stands or a hoist if available and dissconect the harness's for the bearings. put the digital multimeter leads between the 2 terminals coming from the bearing and spin the wheel as fast as you can BY HAND ONLY with the meter set on a very low AC volt setting. a voltage reading should come from the bearing that is probably around 0.8-3.5 AC volts.

best idea is to just have a garage check it out.

 

the guy i went to had a mac scanner and his told him what wheel was throwing the code. then he did the multi-meter thing. you can tell where the problem is comming from with that.

idk why but i bought an american bearing. it was made about 20 miles from my house so i said why not. it was 145 bucks, and 15 for him to tell me what was wrong. most places charge more then that for diagnostics.

you can get a cheaper part, but the guy told me that id probably be replacing the bearing again in a coupl months. i work for a tool company in the usa so im kinda bias. GL

 

which tool company you work for? i'm from canada so i try to buy as much canadian as possible but north american in general will do.