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It's hard out there for a pimp!

Order a set of ceramic pads for Front and Rear. While you’re waiting for the new binders; get a few things together for a Brake-job and Pimp.

Roll of Vinyl Electrical Tape.
Roll of Masking Tape
A Quarter-Inch ¼" Elec. Drill
Wire brushes for Drill: 1) Medium 1) Fine
2 Cans Brake Cleaner
1 Roll Plastic Wrap
Newspaper
Windex
2) 4-Ft. sections of 2X6 lumber
Floor Jack, Jack-stands
Tools
Dust Mask, Work Gloves and Eye-gear.
Milk Crates

Back-up onto the 2X6 boards. This makes positioning the Floor Jack real fast and easy.
Set the Parking Brake.
Break loose the Lug Nuts before jacking!
Jack-up the *** end. Set the Safety-stands. Lower the car onto the Safety-stands.
Remove Rear wheels. Place Wheels, Lug Nuts and 2X6 ramps out of your way.
Use Mask, Gloves and Eye-gear.
Medium Wire-brush Side-1 very thoroughly. Get all the rust gone.
Fine Wire-brush the whole shooting' match free of oxidation.
Go nuts. Knock the oxidation off everything you can get to.

Remove bolts. Pull Caliper. Set Caliper atop Milk Crate. Secure Caliper to Milk Crate with Plastic Ties.
Wire Brush Caliper thoroughly.
Douche the whole works with Brake Cleaner.
Douche the whole ROTOR face, Caliper and Mount with Windex or Carb Cleaner after a Brake Cleaner job. (Some brake cleaners leave a sheen and tapes won’t stick.)
While Side-1 dries do Side-2.

Remove Roll of Plastic Wrap from the box.
Cut (2) 2-Inch wide mini-rolls from the big roll.
Use mini-rolls to mask whatever can be wrapped. Struts, Lines, Suspension Parts and Wheel Mounting Studs. Rip a smidge (sic) and mask the Bleed Screw.
Use Masking Tape OVER Plastic Wrap. Plastic Wrapping eliminates ”Tape-removal" hassles big time.

Mask Rotor.
Use Vinyl Electrical Tape to Mask the outside "Line" near the OD of the Rotor.
BEND the vinyl tape precisely along the line where the oxidation at the Outside of the Rotor ends and Brake Pad Surface shines.
Follow the curvature leaving the Oxidized area beyond where Brake Pads touch exposed for painting. Seat the Vinyl Tape all-around.

Mask: Quarter Panel, Wheel Well, Rotor’s Braking Surface, Lugs and everything you don’t want paint on.

Pick a Caliper Paint color you like.
Shake the can vigorously for 5 minutes. (Kid’s love to help.)
Blow the color on the Caliper, Mount, Rotor and Hub.

Use a Flap from a Cardboard Box.
Shake can and prepare to paint. Hold cardboard to left or right of what’s to be painted.
START the Spray on the Cardboard then bring the mist over the work.
Apply a coating of Spray-can paint mist to work.

There needs to be a whole lot of shakin’ goin’-on. We are not taggin’ a subway car. Pretend you’re “Banksy”.
KEEP THE SPRAY NOZZLE FROM GETTING TOO CLOSE TO THE WORK.
When you are not applying a coat of aerisol MIST from a Spray which you have started AWAY from the work … be shaken' that can! SHAKE before applying a dust-coat … completely across the work.
DO NOT STOP THE SPRAY UNTIL AIMED AWAY FROM THE WORK.

Don't ever "SHOOT" Paint directly at work.
The process ... Each and EVERY time ... you apply color to the work is:
Shake ... Start spray away from work ... Bring the MIST over to the work ... Dust work NEVER lingering or causing excessive build-up to run!