What is the proper ignition timing on a 3100?

I ask this because I was looking at the Torque App on my phone with a bluetooth adapter hooked into the obd2 port, and the live engine data with the car up to temperature and idling properly around 675, (which my tach is saying 1k, but info from the ECU says 675) it is saying my Ignition timing is a whopping 20 degrees!

I am wondering though if I should take the Torque apps data with a grain of salt. But how do I set the ignition timing on one of these new fangled distributorless engines.

 

In order to change the timing you have to have a tuner or a laptop with proper software, and go in and adjust the timing the engine computer.

 

Maybe this will help. Click--->Distributorless ignition system timing

 

Yeah, my other car that I owned has a distributor, and I learned all my mechanical skills from that car. Was so easy just to loosen 2 bolts to turn the distributor, and have a $30 timing light to adjust the timing. Now you need a device that costs hundreds of dollars.

Any clue as to why the timing is the way it is? Did someone in the past possibly have the ECU timing advanced that far so they could get more power by running 93 octane? (I know the timing is what increases the power, not the gas, I know the higher octane is just to prevent knocking)

Or maybe the timing chain jumped or something?

EDIT:

Yeah screw this. I can't find anything on google. It seems like the universal ecu flashers cost like $300-$400+ and I can't find a more specific tool for a late 90s GM, the cheap programming cables on ebay don't list any GM vehicles, seems to be mostly European makes, and garages that do it charge between $100-$150/hr to do the tune themselves. That just isn't worth it to get the timing back to the proper spot.

I will fill the tank with premium next fill up and see if the idle smooths out, and if there is any noticeable increase in power that isn't just a placebo effect.

 

Yea computer tuning isn't cheap, and if i had a 3100 powered car i'd go check the timing for you as i have the torque app as well, but i don't have a 3100 powered car anymore.

 

Sometimes the cluster gauges are not spot on. The data streaming from the computer should be accurate, as you are seeing the raw numbers.

Now, since I've played around with a DHP PowrTuner, I have learned a few things. It is possible that the Torque app for your car is not reading the right data stream (granted, odds are slim, but it's possible).

I suppose the big question is, why the concern over your timing? Are you getting a lot of knock, fuel trims poor, bad performance? If everything is running fine and you don't suspect the car was tampered with, it may not be worth messing with.

 

Well I didn't notice any real problem, just a bit of a rough idle when in drive. When I let my brother borrow the car for a while he said it felt down on power, but he thought it was the compression was low. If the motor has never been replaced, then it's a high miler (Almost 215k miles).

I was only concerned because 20 degrees seemed a bit extreme, only reason I really asked was to see what you guys thought.

 

Rough idle and lack of power could be alot of things. 215k miles certainly could affect it, when was the last time a tune up was done (plugs, wires etc)? And ofcourse as it ages the engine will lose power over time.

 

yeah, I know engines lose power over time. :P

It had a tune up roughly around 160k-170k? I think? I know when my friend bought it off a used car lot it had 150k on it, but I don't believe he gave it a tune up until a year or two after he bought it.

It does have the AC Delco Double Plats, but the wires are Duralast. Thinking of getting a good set of AC/Delco wires.

Here is a screenshot of the Torque app though.

Screenshot_2015-07-22-11-09-57_zpsdwtxj3ap.png