6th Gen ('00-'05): Pop from engine please help ASAP!
#1
Pop from engine please help ASAP!
Last night I was standing outside of my car while it was running when I heard a pop noise all of a sudden. It wasn't a very loud one but it was a sort of medium one that was noticeable. All of a sudden I saw a liquid coming from underneath but since it was dark I couldn't see what it was but it did smell like coolant. I drove it all the way home but the temperature never reached the red mark and I checked underneath when I got home and I saw nothing leaking but there was white smoke coming from the tailpipes. What could this mean? I have a 05 Monte Carlo SS Supercharged and if it helps at all I had radiator flush and water in to do some cleaning since Tuesday morning.
#3
It turned out the pressure hose at the box came off (I never properly screwed it on because the bolt broke in the hole), and the fluid I had in leaked out. As I drove it home from Home Depot to get the tools needed to extract that bolt, the car started to smoke and eventually the change oil light came on and the car stopped on me. It was smoking from the bay. I'm assuming just adding coolant now won't work ?
#4
Well that sucks!
Hopefully it's not toast, but it doesn't sound good.
However, there is some hope. Our cars have a "Fail safe" built in that shuts the engine down if it reaches a critical temperature that will damage the engine. Check the oil and see if it's milky looking. If it does, coolant mixed in with the oil through a gasket. Change the oil before anything else and refill the radiator with distilled water and bleed air out. Try starting and check for leaks. Keep an eye on the temperature and shut 'er down if she gets high. If all is well, drain the radiator and refill with premixed coolant or a 50/50 mix of distilled water and concentrated coolant.
Good luck
Hopefully it's not toast, but it doesn't sound good.
However, there is some hope. Our cars have a "Fail safe" built in that shuts the engine down if it reaches a critical temperature that will damage the engine. Check the oil and see if it's milky looking. If it does, coolant mixed in with the oil through a gasket. Change the oil before anything else and refill the radiator with distilled water and bleed air out. Try starting and check for leaks. Keep an eye on the temperature and shut 'er down if she gets high. If all is well, drain the radiator and refill with premixed coolant or a 50/50 mix of distilled water and concentrated coolant.
Good luck
#5
Well that sucks!
Hopefully it's not toast, but it doesn't sound good.
However, there is some hope. Our cars have a "Fail safe" built in that shuts the engine down if it reaches a critical temperature that will damage the engine. Check the oil and see if it's milky looking. If it does, coolant mixed in with the oil through a gasket. Change the oil before anything else and refill the radiator with distilled water and bleed air out. Try starting and check for leaks. Keep an eye on the temperature and shut 'er down if she gets high. If all is well, drain the radiator and refill with premixed coolant or a 50/50 mix of distilled water and concentrated coolant.
Good luck
Hopefully it's not toast, but it doesn't sound good.
However, there is some hope. Our cars have a "Fail safe" built in that shuts the engine down if it reaches a critical temperature that will damage the engine. Check the oil and see if it's milky looking. If it does, coolant mixed in with the oil through a gasket. Change the oil before anything else and refill the radiator with distilled water and bleed air out. Try starting and check for leaks. Keep an eye on the temperature and shut 'er down if she gets high. If all is well, drain the radiator and refill with premixed coolant or a 50/50 mix of distilled water and concentrated coolant.
Good luck
#7
So after adding coolant and water I constantly checked for leaks then stated the car. I let it warm up and checked my oil which was fine and still no leaks. No white smoke either so all good signs I assume. The only problem is the bolt that's keeping me from being able to secure the bleeder hose is still broken inside the hole so once I drive even 5 minutes, the pressure must push it open and everything leaks out.
#8
Great News, but:
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR!!! LOL
You got lucky once, maybe not the next time.
I'm still not clear on where this bolt, "bleeder hose" or "pressure hose at the box is".
Can you post a picture?
Maybe we can help.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR!!! LOL
You got lucky once, maybe not the next time.
I'm still not clear on where this bolt, "bleeder hose" or "pressure hose at the box is".
Can you post a picture?
Maybe we can help.
#9
The first picture in the album is the hole itself with the bolt stuck into it the second is so you can see its egg behind the alternator
#10
That helps a lot. The part you're talking about is the belt tensioner (AKA Accessorie Drive)(AKA Main Drive), coolant passes through it. The hose is one of the heater hoses. I don't see how you could possibly get the bolt out without removing the tensioner, there's not enough clearance between the bolt hole and the firewall to get a drill in there to get a hole in the bolt for an extractor to bite into. The bolt might be galled and not come out anyway. You might be better off replacing the tensioner. Here's a link to the OEM part which I prefer:
If you prefer not to spend the extra $, here's a link to aftermarket tensioners:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ensioner,11659
You should also replace the coolant elbows at the other end of the tensioner. Upgrade to the metal ones if the existing ones are plastic, Link:
Here's a couple videos that include how to remove the tensioner:
The cars in the video are not supercharged, but I think the process should be similar. Any of you supercharged guys out there could chime in there if you could add any differences. Not sure if that snout adds a factor or not.
If you prefer not to spend the extra $, here's a link to aftermarket tensioners:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ensioner,11659
You should also replace the coolant elbows at the other end of the tensioner. Upgrade to the metal ones if the existing ones are plastic, Link:
Here's a couple videos that include how to remove the tensioner:
The cars in the video are not supercharged, but I think the process should be similar. Any of you supercharged guys out there could chime in there if you could add any differences. Not sure if that snout adds a factor or not.
Last edited by plumbob; 07-28-2017 at 07:28 PM.