I got my Factory Fog Lights in and working ALMOST like I want them. I have twin Relays wired to the Headlight that allow my Fog Lights to be selected: High, Off, or Low.
There's 12 Volts from the Battery to the Relays to Power the Fogs appropriately.
The Relays get Triggered by current from the Driver Side Headlight.

The situation needs an additional Relay to Open and Close the Fused Main Power feed from the Battery.
Without the Relay ... if the Fog Lights are ON ... they remain ON, even with the Key Off.

I have the Relay installed.
I have the LOAD passing through the Relay.
No problems with this much.
The 12 V Load is run from the HOT Post of the Under-hood, Upper Power Distribution Block to an Inline Fuse Holder on down to the Load Side of the new Relay.
I'm ready to connect the HOT Wire feeding my Fogs to the Load Side of the Relay ... WHEN I can FIND a 12 Volt Power Source that is Switched so the Relay will act to send Power to the Fog Lights ONLY when the Ignition Switch is ON.

(If possible, I'd like to have the Relay Triggered by a 12-Volt Source that is "Hot in Run Only" ... But the two wires I tried having "Run Only" power caused problems)

I tried one wire and caused the CEL to Light because the wire powered the O2 Sensors and splicing into that wire blew the Fuse for the O2 Sensors.
The second wire I tried brought the Engine to a halt immediately upon placing the Fog Lights Fuse in the holder.
The second wire was Fuel Pump. The Fuel Pump Fuse blew immediately upon my inserting the Fog Lights Fuse in the holder.

I am presently back to Square One with the 3rd Relay.
Load OK. Fused.

I NEED the SWITCHED Source of 12 Volts, or "Hot in Run" Source ... [from an Under-Hood Source if possible] ... to splice into and use as the Triggering Source of Current to Open and Close the "Power From Battery" Load feeding the Fog Lights?

I have Haynes.
Mult and Test Light
Who has solved this problem and can make it easier to find the Switched Source?

 

ok well search the fuse box and then just install a jumper wire to ur relay

 

The Accessory Fuse is inside ... not Under-hood. To get power from that source I need to run a wire through the Firewall and cannot find anywhere on the Firewall that's plugged or open.

 

++ Bump ++

I could really use some help. Well, ... it ain't a Life or Death situation. Just a "Pulling-out my hair" situation. And, ... I ain't got a lot of hair to give!

 

what about the fuses and relays in the engine bay?

 

Somebody knows? I'm going to know. I'm on a Mission from God!

I have studied the Haynes Manual on this. I went to a nearby Chevrolet Dealership and managed a chat with three Techs who were wrapped-up for the day and were all admiring a new Bass Guitar. I said, "Hello, would you mind if I asked your advice?" They didn't. They told me to take the Hex nuts off and lift-out the Power Distribution Blocks and probe the back with my Test Light. Eureka. Get home and try it.
Fired-up my Yamaha 750 Maxim by holding-in the Start Button and flicking the Sidestand up like the Bike was a kick-starter and fled the scene. Next stop; home driveway.
Out the lot, nice and cool. Looking for cop-cars. None. Next right to the on ramp to 495.
I leaned into the ramp and twisted-it until it stopped. It's slightly uphill. Crank time.
Wound the Max out to 91-hundred in second gear. Blended into the flow on 495 still accelerating. I was approaching "Blur-status" for a moment; just watching the Tach. Then, I backed-off and continued at Flank Speed to pop-open the hood of my Monte and bring and end to being crazy. Massey on his Maxim in Formula Mode. Just before I need to run the Monte over to Saratoga on the Pike.

To find:
The rear of the two Power Distribution Panels both solid-covered.
Two experiments went horribly bad.
One "Check-Lighted" me. AutoZone guy reads it and tells me both O-2's. Prints-out the whole read for me which included diagnostics. Listed; Check Fuse! Thank the guy for the whole readout after finding the Fuse blown. Showed him the Fuse. Asked for reset on the Light. No. Can't do it. Emissions related. Got him to actually hand ME the reader and let me go use it for a few minutes.

Knowledge of OBD-2 Reader's at this point is: .0002% (+/- .0002)
But I had it and was determined to snuff the little yellow engine light.

Plugged it in. Messed with the Buttons. Was easier than playing winning "Asteroids". Read all my Codes and Pendings. I found-out how to do the reset and it went out.
Phew! Close one.
Try again.
It seemed like it was working this time. Everything, ... oh, wait. The Fuse for the Fog Lights supply.
Opened line fuse holder. Took the Fuse out of my pocket and brought it up to the connections inside the fuse holder and went through the motions of seating the Fuse right.
The instant current flowed at the Line Fuse Holder.
The Engine stopped like ... immediately. Dead!

Somebody knows for sure. I don't know yet. But, I'm not hookin'-up to another wire until I know I got it right!

 

where is this in line fuse connected to? and did u try to pull the fuse out and start the car?

 

All is well that ends well. I have finally got the Fog Lights wired-in and working just the way I need to have them work.

The KEY was buying a "Fuse Tap". Tapping the SWITCHED 12- Volt Supply at the Driver Side Dash Fuse Panel ...

I ran the wire from the Fuse Panel under the Steering Column and Down under the Carpet over to the Passenger Side Foot Well.
Pulled the Radiator Overflow Tank ... Drilled Pop-rivet sized hole in Firewall behind the Overflow Tank.
Brought wire through hole and up behind the Overflow tank and behind the Power Distribution Blocks. (This wire is +12 Volts Switched)
Mounted Relay atop of the Power Disitribution Panel. Used one small Pop Rivet.

Wired one of the Relay's Triggering Posts with the Wire brought over from the Accy Fuse Tap.
Opposite Post of Relay Triggering wired and Grounded to the Left Stud for securing the Power Block to the Body.

+12 Volts Hot Wire with Inline Fuse Holder affixed to + 12 Volt Terminal Post at the Power Distribution Block.
This HOT wire runs from Power Post to LOAD Terminal of Relay atop the Power Distribution Panel.
Wire Feeding Power to Fog Lights affixed to opposite LOAD Terminal at Relay.

Power to FEED Fog Lights is now SWITCHED On and Off by Ignition Switch Key Position.
Fog Lights are SWITCHED and cannot be left ON by mistake.

 

hey great job in figuring it out. I'm going to see if I can accomplish the same with my fog lights. where did you buy the fuse tap?at any auto parts store orradio shack?

 

Got the Fuse Tap, "Off-the-shelf" at AutoZone.
If you have to ask for it; it was called a: "Fuse Tap"

Nifty little invention.
Wish I had thought of it.
Not only does it Keep the Circuit Protected for 10 Amps ... But, the "Tap" line out is Fused too.