That works for about a week. It's easier to just not use a K&N. You gain absolutely no noticeable performance. I can't count the amount I've thrown away at the shop.

 

I find that I don't have to baby the throttle to keep decent mpg's with the k&n. There is oiless high flow panel replacement filters alternatives like aem but I haven't tried those. I've had no issue with my k&n's I drove my last 3800 car over 30,000 miles with no problems occurring with it. They've been installed in all my cars. To each their own though.

 

Dyno sheet before and after K&N? I am just stating what I see everyday working on cars for a living. If a car comes in with a MAF problem, nearly 100% of the time it has a K&N.

 

We cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced it. As soon as we connected the new one it had the problem immediately. How could that be the K&N? I am just confused.

 

Has the electrical connector been tested to verify the MAF sensor is getting power? Use a voltmeter (positive probe to pink wire, negative probe to black/white) to check for 12v with the key in the ON position. If no power check the ENG DEVICES fuse located in the lower fuseblock underhood. If all that checks out then the MAF sensor needs to be tested for proper operation with a scanner tool. With the engine running at operating temperature it should read 4 to 6 grams per second at idle and rapidly increase and remain steady with an increase in throttle that is held steady. It it doesn't remain steady then the MAF sensor is malfunctioning.

 

Doesn't mean it's any good just because you sprayed it with some magic cleaner. Do you know anyone with a similar year 3.8l? If so swap their MAF into your car and see how it runs.

 

We bought a brand new MAF. As soon as we connected it and started the car, it started stalling again. Could it be something connected to MAF in someway? Car runs great with MAF disconnected.

 

^^^ Did you diagnose the MAF sensor circuit? ^^^

You should also check for frayed/chafed wiring that may be shorting out.

 

Give the car gas when it is starting to stall. Does that keep it alive?

Check/Clean your IAC

 

We are getting somewhere but not sure where. Last night, replaced IAC valve....car ran great. Reconnected MAF too. No stalling and we drove all over town. Even the check engine light went off by itself. This morning, car would not start, gave it gas and would run for a minute and stall out again. Disconnected MAF again, and its fine. Is there something we need to reset after replacing IAC valve?