Dead battery over night
#4
Disconnect the negative battery terminal and run a test light between battery and the terminal. If there's a slow draw, the test light will light. Pull fuses one at a time to see which one turns the light off and you will find your problem
#5
If you have a Multi Meter you can take your meter in the Volt settings and better if you have like 2v or maybe 200M setting, But start at 2V. Test each fuse over the fuse is the safest way to test for a draw. When you test the Fuse over the fuse of 0 or 03 that wouldn't be it. It could be something like 1 or .5 really anything more then .1 should be looked over more. So keeping the fuse in the holder test the 2 top pins of the fuse. Really it works and safer.
Wonder if you have added LEDs or if you have anything aftermarket like LEDs or AMP or Stereo?
If you have a Led in the Trunk or for any tail lights other then the High Brake I would test them to make sure there is no draw there.
James
Wonder if you have added LEDs or if you have anything aftermarket like LEDs or AMP or Stereo?
If you have a Led in the Trunk or for any tail lights other then the High Brake I would test them to make sure there is no draw there.
James
#7
I was dealing with this issue and it turned out to be the stock amplifier in the trunk mounted up top. It was drawing 330mA while the car was off. Once I removed it the car was at 5mA which is a more normal range. I found it by pulling fuses and using a multimeter.
#8
Ok did some testing after making up a 1157 testing circuit. I did this test on just the Blinker Elements then realized that would be a good size draw so I switched over to the Running light side of the bulb and with the meter in 2V and only 1 bulb in a socket there was .009 draw on the fuse With both bulbs in and meter in 2V it was .017 so my numbers are off a little in my first post sorry, it is hard to always remember what draw should be and I was looking over the 200m while running the test and again that is where when I say the numbers in my first post is in better specs. At 200m testing 2 bulbs it is 17.7 so when I say 0 or 03 wouldn't be that number in 2v should be 0 to .003 I always say start in higher number incase there is a large draw, However you could test in 200m as most draw should be within that range. IF your meter is Auto Ranging then not an issue. Then if you see something that bothers you switch to 2v and test to see that it reads under .003. Anything over .005 if your meter only goes down to 2v.
I would pull the fuse and test the others you haven't tested yet to make sure that is only spot with issue. At times there can be more then 1 short in the system.
Thought I would update my post with numbers tested. This test was run at a Little Fuse over the fuses 2 pins at the top.
If you find an area in your box with high draw you can always let use know what fuse it was if you don't know what all it runs and we could or someone may tell you what would be on the fuse from the factory. Anything over Factory wiring could only be known by you.
James
I would pull the fuse and test the others you haven't tested yet to make sure that is only spot with issue. At times there can be more then 1 short in the system.
Thought I would update my post with numbers tested. This test was run at a Little Fuse over the fuses 2 pins at the top.
If you find an area in your box with high draw you can always let use know what fuse it was if you don't know what all it runs and we could or someone may tell you what would be on the fuse from the factory. Anything over Factory wiring could only be known by you.
James